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W126 1983 300SD rear shock & spring R&R DIY
1983 300SD rear shock & spring R&R DIY
#1. Remove rear seat base from the interior. #2. Remove the eight millimeter bolts from right/left base bracket of rear seat back, refer to picture #A. pas_rear_seat_back_mount_bolt.jpg for bolt position. #3. Lift rear seat back up, and toward the front of car, remove it from the interior, take care to not damage body paint or seat. #4. Fold back the rear bulkhead padding on left and right side = expose the three inch white plastic hole plug. #5. Remove both three inch white plastic hole plugs, refer to picture #B. shock mount cap_2B.jpg. #6. Remove the 17 MM upper shock absorber mount nuts, washer and bushing, refer to picture #C. shock upper mount.jpg for position. #7. Loosen rear wheel bolts. #8. Raise only one side rear of car, lifting from the rear control arm, keep the jack in place for further operation. #9. Insert jack stand under the rear rocker panel rubber lift point, refer to picture #C. sub_frame_bolt7453567.jpg for position. #10. Remove rear wheel. #11. Remove the sway bar link 17 MM nut, relieve pressure on the bar, and dismount the link refer to picture #D. rear_sway_link_97435.jpg . #12. Dismount the brake caliper from rotor/hub by removing the two 19 MM bolts, support the caliper so the flex hose is not holding caliper weight. #13. If you only have one floor jack, relieve tension/support from control arm = let it hang. #14. Insert jack to support the rear sub frame with light pressure. #15. Remove the sub frame bushing bolt. #16. Slowly relieve jack pressure until the sub frame is hanging free. Last edited by whunter; 03-20-2006 at 07:06 PM. |
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#2
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Post #2. for DIY picture space.
#17. Inspect your sub frame bushing for corrosion, and swelling, replace as needed, read the following threads for more data.
Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=796976#post796976 W126 subframe mount clarification needed http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=370569#post370569 #18. Remove the two 17 MM lower shock absorber bolts, and lower the shock down. #19. Jack up the control arm as high as you can go, using great care, reach in/under the control arm, and gently remove the old shock absorber. #20. Lower and remove the jack, being sure the jack stand has not shifted. #21. Leather Gloves are needed here = PINCH hazard. #22. Apply pressure down on the brake rotor hub while tilting the top of the coil spring toward the rear, (it should come out with hand pressure) refer to picture spring_875728.jpg for position. #23. Tilt the top of the spring toward the differential as you lift it from the control arm seat, it should be almost aligned with the axle shaft in the final extraction position. #24. Remove and replace the upper rubber spring spacer mount. Reverse this procedure, with the following step added for installing the sub frame mount bolt. #A. Install the greased sub frame bolt and cage into your socket. #B. Slide the bolt into the bushing. #C. Slide a board between floor jack and ratchet head. #D. WARNING: the bolt must remain upward centered or you risk injury/damage. #E. Slowly use the jack to raise the bolt/socket/sub frame assembly into position, you may need to reposition several times to get the bolt seated in the body hole. #F. Safety warning: Install a jack stand under the sub frame, with roughly a half inch gap = it is only there to catch, if the ratchet falls from the jack. #G. Do not try to get more than two or three clicks of motion from the ratchet in this position, more will risk causing the ratchet to slip from the jack. Last edited by whunter; 03-20-2006 at 07:08 PM. |
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Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but I'm not seeing any mention of a spring compressor.
Do you need to mess with the rear coil to change out the rear shocks? I will be doing this soonishly.
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod ![]() 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
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#4
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newp, if yr changing the shocks you dont need to mess with the spring.
even if you did wanna mess with the spring, if you follow the DIY you dont need to use a compressor.
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
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...that's what I thought! Ok.
I suppose that for the fronts I would need to compress the springs.
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod ![]() 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
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#6
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if yr doing the front shocks, you also dont need to compress the spring. everything is held in place by the control arms. if you were doing any work below it (lower control arm stuff, guide rod stuff) then you'd have to compress it, with the mercedes compressor.
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
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#7
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Quote:
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod ![]() 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
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#8
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whunter, I see this was written in 2006. Is this procedure also applicable to W123, specifically 1985 300D? Thanks!
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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#9
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How did the job go? Anyone else followed this procedure? Why so little discussions on this?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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Quote:
![]() Sixto 83 300SD |
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#11
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Agreed. So you have replaced rear shocks and springs following this procedure? What was the approx. time needed? Is procedure applicable to 85 300D?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked Last edited by funola; 12-10-2015 at 12:50 PM. Reason: 85 not 86 30D |
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#12
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Don't know about an 86 300D but you don't need to remove the springs to change shocks on earlier cars.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
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#13
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I've swapped out shocks, but not springs.
Should be the same procedure.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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#14
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Quote:
Sorry it's 85 300D not 86. Corrected my post. I am doing springs and shocks.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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#15
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I replaced the rear shocks, but not the springs on my 1984 300D. The bottom bolts are easy. The top nuts require removing the rear seat. A good time to add seat covers (as me) or rebuild the seats. There is a little orange tab at the bottom of the seat bottoms that you push to release a catch. After the bottom is out, you can remove the seat-back. There are a few bolts, at the bottom I recall. One is behind the center arm rest.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
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