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#1
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I was closing the nipple on the left rear tire and the thing broke. The nipple broke off but so did the part with the bolt on it. I don't realy know what to do. This is really gonna set me back. What should i do next?
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
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#2
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Try an easy-out.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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#3
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im not sure what that is and does anyone know the part number for a replacement because i will be needind one.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
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#4
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Adiaw,
The nipple on the tire and the part with a bolt on it????? I have no idea what you are talking about. You must be more specific to get help. P E H |
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#5
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PEH, I had to read it several times also...
but the title is brake bleeding... so he is not on the tire... but on the caliper ... the nipple used for bleeding the brakes broke off... |
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#6
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I don't know if you can replace just the nipple part on the brake caliper. Check with Phil on the Fastlane or your local MBZ dealership.
The bleeder nipple area are usually rusted on old cars. Before doing brake bleeding, you should use penetrant oil soak overnite. When you are opening and closing the bleed screw, do it slowly so as not to break the screw and the nipple. Good luck David ___________________ 1985 300D Turbo |
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#7
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An easy out is a tool designed for removing broken bolts. Go to your local auto parts store or hardware store and ask for them. They come in different sizes designed to fit different sized holes that are supposed to be drilled in a broken bolt. In your case, there is a hole in the broken bleeder nipple already. Get a size that will go into that hole. As you turn the east out counterclockwise it threads into and grips the broken bolt.
If that doesn't work, and in a worse case scenario, you may have to replace the caliper. But often a broken bolt will come out easily, particularly if you had it loosened in the recent past. It is quite easy to break off the bleeder nipples, particulalrly on older vehicles.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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#8
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I have never had any luck with 'easy outs' myself... the 'thread' is more of a sweep and on short items does not give much catch area...
They will also make it harder to use this method because they will make a hole more like a National pipe thread...bigger on one end... .... which is to get a left handed tap with the proper size drill... you tap it, stick a left handed bolt into it.. and when it tightens down it then turns the item out... Don't use too long a bolt because you don't want to go past the inside of the nipple..... ( assuming the original had right hand threads ) ... That may sound like a strange thing to mention to you young guys .. but many cars had left hand threads on the wheel lug nuts on one side of the car.... with the theory that the wheel turning that direction would cause them to back out.... silly thought now.... but you do have to know which way your problem is threaded for some things.... |
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#9
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adiaw83,
How much nipple is sticking out of the caliper? Since you apparently had the nipple loose already, this should not be the kind of disaster resulting in a new pair of calipers (you should replace them in pairs to avoid any differences in performance should you mismatch brands, etc.). An easy-out is a name for a tool used to extract broken, male threaded fasteners. They work by drilling a small pilot hole and then screwing the tool into the pilot hole - the tool has a left handed thread so as it screws in it imparts a torque in the direction that unscrews the remnant. They are not something I ever mastered, as an off center hole, etc. can make them difficult to use successfully. And often, in the case of a rusted fastener using an easy-out is not likely to be any more successful than using the original bolt, as by necessity they are significantly smaller in diameter. All that is moot though, since your bleed screw remnant already has a nice hole in the center and it should not be frozen in place by corrosion. So, go to Sears, ask for an easy-out kit (you typically get a couple sizes) and get the remnant out. The local dealership should have bleed screws, as should NAPA or some other car parts place. You need one with the correct thread, so if you go to a parts store, bring the old one with you to measure and make sure you get the right part. I do not think there are a million kinds, shapes or sizes for these things though. But, if all else fails, visit a junk yard and bring some liquid wrench or other penetrant. Good luck, and sorry about your misfortune. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
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#10
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Leather,
OK the Nipple on the tire is the brake bleeder nipple, but what is the part with the bolt on it that also broke? I thought he might be talking about the metallic valve stem. P E H |
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#11
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I took the 'bolt' to be the part of the nipple with a 'head' on it for a wrench.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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#12
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It looks to me like the Euro Headlights update is a cosmetic project... I suggest you take the money you have allocated for that and get a digital camera... they make some really cheap and amazingly good ones now.. or borrow one.. and make a picture of your problem...That will help ALOT.
At some point where you have tried what you can .... but before you decide to chuck the caliper and buy two new ones, you can mail it to me and I will extracate it. You pay postage both directions...Drilling it on a drill press with a good milling table will get it out.. the trick is to drill only large enough to weaken the metal in the nipple... and then you can usually tap it from the side and collapse it slightly... then penetrant left in the gap can make it to the ( usually rusty ) threads.... metal work is so much fun.... |
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#13
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PEH, he applied too much force/pressure on the nipple with his engine/motor powered impact driver....trying to change it hot and often but not unscrewing the oil cooler lines at the engine....and then decided he should change to synthetic instead of Dino....and he did all this while the car was moving....
Clear now ? |
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#14
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Ship the car to me immediately.
I'll fix it and drive it. I don't have enough Benzos yet and want a good 126. Please repaint in Navy before sending.
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
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#15
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YOU HAVE NO ROOM FOR ANOTHER CAR !! You would be in big trouble if he sent it with your Buick Convertible still warming the garage floor....is it jacked up yet ?
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