Remove turbo oil drain tube from oil pan? 1982 300sd

[Walkenvol]

'82 300sd OM617 out of the vehicle and on an engine stand.

Decided to replace some of the gaskets and oil seals while it was out. Ordered the seals for the tube that drains the oil from the turbo down to the oil pan. I can't seem to get the old one out. I've read DIY accounts of the trouble folks had with the motor in the vehicle, but I've got the oil pan off and the engine rotated upside down and still it doesn't want to come out. It will twist and wiggle around and will slide out apx 1 inch then stops. I pried and tapped on the tube from inside of the oil pan enough that I fear damaging something. Is there a trick here I'm missing?

Thanks.

[Chad300tdt]

Find a deep well socket that fits in the hole and hit it with a hammer until the tube pops out.

[Renntag]

Pictures and info?

I now have an oil leak where the turbo drain tube enters the pan via a rubber bushing/grommet/seal.

Speaking with Roy, I have learned that my best option is to remove the manifolds and turbo in order to make the tube pull out. He went on to say that this is a miserable job and that frustration and the urge to curse, chuck things, what ever your affliction, will set in.

Roy suggested not only getting a new seal, but also a new tube as the removal process may be easier by just damaging the tube.

I have not ordered the parts yet. I would like to start by getting pictures and feedback from anyone else that has performed this repair. (with the engine installed).

Tricks?
Comments?
Other parts/tools to consider?

[RAYMOND485]

1984 300D TURBO 155K
USE A HOSE CLAMP ON THE TUBE AND TAP THE CLAMP OUT DIY

[Renntag]

Thanks.
But questions:

What kind of clamp? a worm drive clamp?
Assuming clamp on the tube above the bushing and tap downward into the pan?


Note RAYMOND485: It appears your caps lock is stuck. All caps=shouting.

[The Gears]

With the engine right side up. Press the tube down into the ribber fitting in the pan. Now pry the fitting and tube up and out. The "O" ring on the tube is what locks (expands) the fitting in the pan when in the extended or up position. Yes a couple of Gear clamps give something to grab hold to and twist the tube.

[BoiseBenz]

As mentioned, push the lower tube all the way down into the pan such that you can remove the upper tube from the turbo (small oval gasket, two 6-mm bolts?). Then pull the lower tube straight out.

Change the grommet, lube with oil, push the lower tube way into the pan, bolt on the upper tube to the turbo, (new gasket, two bolts), lube the o-ring, try to pull the lower tube up until it the o-ring seats in its little groove. This is where the worm clamp might give you a "fulcrum" for trying to lever it up into position. Otherwise the tube's smooth and hard to get any USEFUL effort on.

The only thing holding the lower tube is interference at the o-ring and the grommet.

I could imagine how this job would take only 15 minutes, but that hasn't been my experience.

[RAYMOND485]

1984 300d turbo 155k
remove the two bolts from the oil drain tube and move the drain to the side under the turbo, and install a hose clamp on the tube and push up on the hose clamp or tap the clamp up and out diy

[Diesel911]

I don't think my thread made it to the DIY section:

Turbo Drain and Blow-by Drain Seal Replacement; Mein Kampf
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=280787

[Walkenvol]

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

Find a deep well socket that fits in the hole and hit it with a hammer until the tube pops out.

tried that but was afraid I was having to hit it too hard and would break something.

[Walkenvol]

Originally Posted by Renntag

Pictures and info?

Roy suggested not only getting a new seal, but also a new tube as the removal process may be easier by just damaging the tube.

with the engine still in the car, I could see from my experience where damaging the tube is quite likely.

[Walkenvol]

Originally Posted by RAYMOND485

1984 300D TURBO 155K
USE A HOSE CLAMP ON THE TUBE AND TAP THE CLAMP OUT DIY

I put a hose clamp on the tube and used t long bars to pry out on the tube all while a helper hammered on a socket from inside the pan. Seems like way more pressure than needed.

[Walkenvol]

Originally Posted by The Gears

With the engine right side up. Press the tube down into the ribber fitting in the pan. Now pry the fitting and tube up and out. The "O" ring on the tube is what locks (expands) the fitting in the pan when in the extended or up position. Yes a couple of Gear clamps give something to grab hold to and twist the tube.

Am I understanding correctly that when I pulled the tube up apx 1 inch without moving the rubber fitting up the same amount that the o-ring locks against the rubber fitting and is causing the resistence?

So, I must work the rubber fitting up with the metal tube? I have not tried that yet.

[BoiseBenz]

Originally Posted by Walkenvol

So, I must work the rubber fitting up with the metal tube? I have not tried that yet.

Aww, crap, left that step out

Should have read:
As mentioned, push the lower tube all the way down into the pan such that you can remove the upper tube from the turbo (small oval gasket, two 6-mm bolts?). SLIDE THE GROMMET UP THE TUBE. Then pull the lower tube straight out. REVERSE TO ASSEMBLE.

I've done two of these without taking off anything but the two tube sections: manifolds, turbo, pan, etc. left intact.

[Junkman]

One pic is remove, the other install. I used 2 long 3/8" extensions to tap it back in. Relaxing makes everything easier. There is a gasket set that includes everything needed down to the manifold/block gasket. Price (a few years ago) was ~$60 if you shop. I'm sure Peach would be close. I removed the turbo but not the manifold. Change the manifold gasket. You're right there.