Rear flex disc change
 

I've seen some old posts, so I know there is a certain way it goes in. From the current one, I hope to be able to figure that out.

So, I also need to loosen the nut in the center of the driveshaft to allow slack to get it out?

What are the approx. torque specs for the nuts on the flex disc?

RE 86 300E.

Many thanks

Flex disc torque spec's.

M 10 = 40 NM
M 12 = 60 NM.

thanks manny,

damned if I didn't leave my torque wrench at home.

So it sounds like you already have it changed. If not, loosen the big nut in the center of the shaft near the carrier. This lets you collapse the shaft so you can replace the disk.

Be careful not to let the shaft slip apart, but if you do, there are marks on the two pieces that must be aligned when resplining. There are two knots on one piece that align with one knot on the other piece.

Those are great big bolts on the disks, you don't need to torque them, just tighten them real good.

Good luck,

Thanks! Hope to change it today.

Well, I went to go change it today only to find that you have to drop the exhaust to get to the nut on the driveshaft. It is right above the center muffler on this Kalifornia model.


One question: Yesterday, my mechanic pressed in a new ball joint on the lower front right. He inspected the rest of the front end and said everything was fine. Two months ago, the alignment shop declined to align the car until the struts, idler arm and ball joint were replaced.
The shocks are "dry". If that means that the chrome shaft at the top of the strut under the bellows have no oil on them, then does that mean they are okay? The mechanic also said nothing ill about the idler arm.

The lower right ball joint was replaced, but the left front tire is wearing on the outside edge?

So to sum up, should I replace the idler arm and struts or neither?? Those struts are expensive, I'd hate to replace a decent pair for no reason.
Now that I think about it, I should replace the questionable idler arm while the exhaust is down.

Sorry for the ramble!

I have heard that as long as the struts/shocks are not leaking, they are ok.

However, I changed mine around 150K anyway.

Just change them yourself. It's not hard. No springs to compress or anything.

Maybe the alignment shop was trying to sell you some parts.