i heard synthedic motor oil is "a lot" better for an engine. is it good for an 87 300e? is thier any prep that needs to be done for the changeover? i know thier not compatable.
your comments would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
adam

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87 300E
BLACK GOLD WITH CREAM INTERIOR, SPOILER, AIRDAM
CLEAR MARKERS

87 420SEL
BRONZE WITH CREAM INTERIOR

This is a thread that will soon have a flame in the icon.

Synthetic oil is definitely superior to dino oil. However, it's one of those cost/benefit issues.

Some feel that oil change intervals can be extended when using synthetic oil. My contention is that this is not the case. Draining the oil is the only means you have to clean your engine internals(crankcase). You still must change the oil often if you wish to have a clean crankcase. The engine deposits contaminants in the oil regardless of oil type. The oils have additives to disperse and/or suspend these contaminants. The only way to get them out, is to drain the oil which includes the contaminants.

By using less expensive dino oil, you can drain more frequently for the same cost, thus keeping your engine cleaner inside.

If you drive in extreme situations, such as across the Mojave, synthetic would be a good choice.

Now, let's stand back, watch the fireworks involved with oil opinions, and see the icon for this thread have flames very soon.

Good luck,

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Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

I use synthetic oil exclusively and am a big fan, however I would not change your car over at this late date, unless you want a lot of leaks to develop.

Simply stay on a frequent oil change regimen and you'll be fine.

As to compatability, synthetic oils are absolutely compatable with dino oil.

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All the best, Michael
500E
300TE

I second the opinion on leaks - it happened to me on my 928. It does help in cold weather, though, so it may be worth it if you keep your car outside.

Chuck

I live in Tampa, FL and use Mobil 1 15W-50 Synthetic in all three of my cars. Converted all of them. No problems. Great performance.

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1988 Mercedes-Benz 260E (W124)
Arctic White/Grey
Debadged
Euro Headlights
Clear Turn Signals and 1994/1995 Taillights
16" x 7J 8-hole
Michelin Pilot HX MXM 205/55WR16

1997 Mercedes-Benz E420 (W210)
Pearl Black/Ash
Debadged
Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 P225/55ZR16

1997 Mercedes-Benz C280 (W202)
Polar White/Parchment
Michelin Pilot SX-GT 205/60VR15

more input please.

Adam,

The 300E and all other "older" MB models were made to run on dino oil. The only advantage you would get with synthetic is you get a longer oil change interval--but who cares when your paying about $5 a quart for synthetic. Trust me, save your money, and use dino--perfectly ok. If on the other hand you purchase a brand new E55, I would suggest using synthetic. New performance cars need synthetic due to its technology, blah blah.

Catrol GTX--$1.49 a quart at autozone--you cant go bad...

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Agron
1989 300E
Monotoned Smoke Silver
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
20% Tint
12" Sub-enclosure

Well here I go again. I believe that you should not extend oil changes because you are using synthetic.

I use both. I use Mobil One in my new V6, and I use a quality dino oil in my older cars.

Engines produce contaminants which find their way into the engine oil. This is why you change the engine oil, it's the only method you have to clean the engine internally. These contaminants find their way in there regardless of what oil you use. To get them out drain the oil, preferably hot and preferably often.

Mobil One is a great product, and I believe in it. But it can't slow down the contaminants that are produced by your engine.

Good luck,
Change oil hot and change oil often,

------------------
Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, 533K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

I completely disagree with Agron on this (with all due respect). Perhaps he's not had the opportunity to look up inside a Honda with almost 300k miles on it whose motor looked as though it had just been assembled! Compression test was as-new, too. That's the car that made me a believer.

I think Synthetic's increased lubricity, lesser tendency to leak down off cylinder walls, increased change interval, decreased evaporative rate, higher burn-off point, and higher flow rate at low temperatures all allow me to say unequivocally that synthetic is indeed better. Maybe dino's adequate, but I've always believed in using the best products available.

As regards my story of leaks, beware; I converted my 300TE to synthetic at 68k miles (in '97) and abruptly blew my rear main crankshaft seal. The front cover seal and top cover seals went shortly thereafter. I'd do it again, frankly, but you've got to be willing to accept the consequences.

All the best everyone...good luck with your decisaion.

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All the best, Michael
500E
300TE

I think using synthetic and sticking to the same drain intervals, 3K for example, is a waste of money and oil. You should at least be able to multiply your interval by the multiple of the cost of synthetic vs. mineral oil. Seems to me that would be the whole point of using synthetics: not having to change as often. I think the best cost/benefit ratio is to use mineral oil and change at 4 to 5K.

re: "...Seems to me that would be the whole point of using synthetics: not having to change as often...."

Well, here's another opinion -- the whole point of using synthetic is to better protect the engine against wear, so it lasts longer. An awful lot of oil changes (even at synthetic oil prices) will NEVER come close to the cost of an Mercedes engine lower-end rebuild (i.e., cylinders honed, new pistons & rings, bearings, etc. -- a BIG etc.). Since even the timing chain is protected by the oil quality, even that is better off with synthetic.

So, change oil (and filter) just as often as with conventional oil.

re: "...I converted my 300TE to synthetic at 68k miles (in '97) and abruptly blew my rear main crankshaft seal. The front cover seal and top cover seals went shortly thereafter. ..."

I really don't accept that any of those leaks and/or blown seals were the result of changing the oil. I've started using synthetic oil (always AmsOil 10W-40) in about 12 pre-owned cars over the past 28 years (7 Volvos of '70s and '80s vintage, four MBs of '80s to '90s vintage*, and one '85 Dodge GLH Turbo), and haven't encountered oil leaks that started after using this oil in any of them. Starting mileages (i.e., when I started using synth oil) were 56,000 miles minimun (one, a '80 Volvo 245, was started at 148,000). Sure, in some of them, at high mileage, a leak has started later, but these were many, many, tens of thousands of miles later (at high mileage), when it would have occurred anyway regardless of oil type. And, all the leaks were on Volvos -- none of my MBs leak yet (except for one with a head gasket leak that was fixed under Encore warranty).

[* because this is a MB list, I'll give the MB details:
'88 300E (M103), synth oil started at 124,000 (4 years ago) -- leaked a little when I bought it, and it doesn't leak any more than before at present 160,000.
'88 190E2.3 (M102), synth oil started at 88,000 (5 years ago) -- no leaks so far at 118,000.
'90 300E (M103), synth oil started at 56,000 (3 years ago) -- no leaks at all so far at 81,000.
'84 280GE (M110, double cam), synth oil started at 88,000 (10 mos ago) -- no leaks at all so far at 98,000.]
Hope this helped.

:) Adam,I have read on another MB list that the two oils are compatable and can be mixed. Maybe someone knows for sure?
As far as synthetic being better, I'm sure it is;BUT at 51 years old, I have never had a oil related problem using dino. I, like Larry Bible, believe in changing it hot and often and always change the filter. Just my 2cents.

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thanks for everyones responces. i change my oil and filter every 2K. i guess i dont need synthetic then,,,,i just figured it would give my engine a better lubercation.
im definately for preventative mantinance.
i think everyone here is!
thanks again,
adam

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87 300E
BLACK GOLD WITH CREAM INTERIOR, SPOILER, AIRDAM
CLEAR MARKERS

87 420SEL
BRONZE WITH CREAM INTERIOR

What's an "oil change"?