After I start my car (260E) and shift to Drive, release the brakes and push the accelerator pedal the engine dies. If I start the car and increase RPM to 2000-2500 for 20-30 sec and then start driving, everything is Ok.

Sounds like it needs to warm up a bit more. I have the same car with 214,000 miles. The rings are starting to wear and the compression is dropping a bit, especially before it reaches operating temperature. Slightly heavier oil, a little more rpm on initial startup (gas pedal) and wait a whole minute before loading the engine, either with AC or by driving.

Clean spark plugs help a lot, too. They don't have to be brand new, but a little DIY plug air blaster from JC Whitney really makes a difference.

Enjoy,

__________________
Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

Yes, the same affect if I start the engine and wait for 10 min then drive.
After that warm up the coolant temperature erase to 100C. It does not sound good, doesn't it? But I can move the car.
What bothering me that it happened suddenly if it is wearing of the rings. I can drive it up to 100-110 mph, no power loss, only the problem is acceleration from the complete stop – the engine hesitate when warmed up but it was no problem with acceleration of the cold engine I did not drive my car for 3 days and here we go.
Certainly it is either temperature or pressure need to be built up before the engine can perform. Could some sensors confuse the CPU?

It has happened ones before. One mechanic check the car, found nothing, but disconnected the EHA and it start run again, another mechanic reconnected EHA and the car continued to run.
But it did not help at this time to play with EHA.

You need to check ALL the vacuum connections for leaks, starting with the idle control valve hoses. I suspect you will find the idle hoses rock hard and leaking, probably will also find some other vacuum lines leaking. Could also be the plastic peice between the air flow housing and the intake manifold, too.


Once you fix the vac leaks, get the mixture set properly (do a seach if you want to do it yourself with a digita VOM).

If you also get occasional stalls when stopping abrupty, clean the idle valve with carb cleaner while replacing the hoses.

With a vac leak, you are running lean at idle. This is less of a problem with a cold engine (once you get past the initial stumble) because the computer is running it a bit rich until it warms up.

Check the cap and rotor, too -- if badly worn or corroded, I would suggest a new cap, rotor, and wires. This will not be cheap, but it's possible you have the very old parts, and they leak electricity -- look for spidery burn marks were the leads go close to engine parts.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thank you Peter!
Who creates the vacuum? Which device?

The vacuum is created by the engine running -- it's a gasoline powered engine, and they are "throttled" == that is, the power developed is controlled by a valve in the intake manifold (the throttle valve) that regulates the amount of air going into the engine. Naturally, the valves and pistons pull considerably against the nearly closed flap at idle, generating vacuum.

When you have a leak around the air flow meter, insufficient fuel is added, so it runs too "lean" and can stall, also won't produce good power. When you open the throttle suddenly under these conditions, it will take longer than normal for the air flow meter flap to move, resulting in throttle lag. Will work fine at higher speeds were most of the air is going past the open throttle valve.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Where can I find information about replacing those vacuum hoses?
How many of them I need to change? It would be a great help if you know their part #.
Tnx.

Probably the two most important lines are the moulded ones going to & from the IAC module. When they split it's a BIG leak. And maybe the PCV line from the intake manifold to the valve cover. Otherwise just wiggle any line you can see with your fingers. Feel for broken plastic lines or split rubber connectors. No real need to replace functional lines. The white ones seem to get the most brittle with age.

Best of luck,

__________________
Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

Is IAC module (Idle Air Control Module) the same that Idle Valve - part #118 on this site:
http://www.************************/BitMapPage.aspx?bitmapid=227&bitmapname=External%20Engine
or on the picture below.

PCV means positive crankcase ventilation. This valve uses vacuum from the intake manifold to draw the fumes from the crankcase. Symptoms of a faulty PCV valve are poor idle and excessive pressure in the crankcase.
I could not locate the PCV on 260E. Where should I look for it?
Tnx.

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Idle Air Control (IAC) Module = Idle Control Valve ??

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What is Vacuum Change-Over Valve?
What is Thermo-Vacuum Valve?
What do they do and where are they located?
Tnx.

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Yup, that's the IAC. Cute, ain't it?

There is no PCV valve. Just a rubber tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold. As you're standing in front of the bumper, looking at the engine, it comes out of the driver's side of the valve cover, about halfway back. It makes a 90 degree turn down and attaches to the intake manifold. If you pull it off the valve cover while the engine's running, there should be a pretty strong vacuum at idle.

As to the other two vacuum goodies, I haven't a clue.

Vacuous,

__________________
Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles