|
|
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Lino,
I'd be cautious about cleaning the engine and specially the driver's side. There are several electronic components and switches under the hood that can wreek havoc either immediately or down the road if they get water of steam in them. Also I noticed that the ignition tumbler was changed. Do you need two keys for the car now? Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#32
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Quote:
Look at post #12: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=96057&highlight=Driven+Plate[/QUOTE]
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe I missed it during all the image downloads, but I don't see where you posted how much oil it is using. My own 89 300 was using a quart per tankfull of gas until I replaced the valve guides. I replaced all the seals too but ain't no way it was leak'in a quart a week.
|
#34
|
||||
|
||||
I just checked my oil this morning before I turned on my car and it was a little low. My last oil change was 7500km (4600 miles) ago. The last time I topped off the oil was approximately 3 weeks/900 miles ago. I am using LiquiMoly/LubroMoly MoS2 10W40 oil.
Here is the oil dipstick: Sorry, I topped off the oil before I took the picture. The red arrow points to where the level was before I topped it off: This is after I topped it off:
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
If I'm reading you right, I think you are worrying too much. That's two quarts between the marks and you topped off half a quart at 900 miles which extrapulates to 1800 miles to the quart. Also considering you did 900 miles in 3 weeks, I'm guessing you did a fair amount of high speed driving which would allow for higher oil consumption. That is not an unreasonable amount of oil given the age and known valve guide problems of the M103. If i were you, I'd drive the car til the low oil light comes on and then throw a couple of quarts in.
Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
You're new to this, eh?
Don't top a Benz engine off with oil. Don't add any until the low oil light comes on, or it gets more than halfway down the dipstick! Reason is, that is a MAX fill mark, not the recommended level, and many MB engines will burn off quite a bit if filled that high. Consumption drops off rapidly as the level goes down, and may in fact stop not quite half way down. I've run into this several times, and my friend the MB mechanic actually aquired a gasser (don't remember the model) that had and incurable "oil consumption" problem. Never used a quart between changes if NOT topped up, but would burn off a quart in 500 if you kept adding to the MAX mark! Cheapest fix ever for oil use! Try not filling it up all the way compulsively -- the engine will run fine with the oil level just above the lower red plastic mark. Only add 1 qt when it gets that low, too, not two. Oil level light should come on when the level hits the lower mark. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
I think that most any engine with buucu miles will use more oil than what you state. Ocassionally you'll see one that is just unbelievable, like my 89 Accord with 186,000 miles. I put 300 to 400 miles PER DAY on it and it will use one half of a quart in 5,000 miles. Since I change every 3,000 or so I never have to add any. Now my Mercedes and my Falcon are a different story!
Point is, if you do like psfred says in addition to changing the oil every 3,000 miles, then you won't notice any oil consumption. |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This is the first time I have ever heard of this. I wonder how many other members here have adopted this. BTW, what is an incurable "oil consumption" problem? Why can't it be fixed?
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#40
|
||||
|
||||
NO I don't recommend a new timing chain or tensioner
NO I don't recommend new valve guides (unless in the course of replacing the valve stem seals they are found to be worn) NO NO NO I do NOT recommend any other sealer on this job. LOCTITE 5900 or you might as well not even do the job. MB already had us try the brand you left a link to, the job lasted about a year and it would leak again, ONLY use LOCTITE 5900!!! Gilly
__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#41
|
||||
|
||||
lino:
What he means by "incurable oil consumption" is that the only reason it was consuming oil is because it was being run TOO FULL. The only "cure" is to allow the engine to run at the oil level it wants to (usually about in the middle of the operating range). If you "insist" on running the engine with it all the way to the top of the operating range, it will keep burning off this oil until it is where it "wants to be". I can attest to this also, seen it several times. Try running the engine for 1000 miles before you check the oil, or at least VOW to not ADD any oil for 1000 miles. You will probably notice the same thing as is being discussed; the engine will go down to the middel of the operating range (between the 2 red marks) and stay there. This is fine, this is normal, don't expect it to stay at the very top of the scale. I think it is a case where the owner needs to adapt to the car. In addition the engine oil level is very sensitive to oil temperature,so unless you are very consistent with when you are checking the oil, it can be hard to get an absolutely consistent reading. So in short just "chill out" on your oil level and stop bring the oil level to the very top of the range, accept that it will usually be in the middle of the range. Gilly
__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#42
|
||||
|
||||
Thank you everyone for all of your help. I feel so relieved now. I will definitely sleep better now thanks to you all. I will keep you updated with my progress.
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#43
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#44
|
||||
|
||||
OK. MB had tried (recommended) about 3 or 4 things, usually each one for over a year, until I think about 5 or so years ago when they started recommending the 5900. I'm not aware of a reoccuring leak with the 5900, that stuff works really good, but do follow all the recommendations for cleanliness and curing time.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#45
|
||||
|
||||
Here are the prices of the parts I'm going to buy:
003 997 80 94 $60.90 Timing Chain 103 050 06 11 $101.90 Tming Chain Tensioner 103 016 03 21 $22.50 Valve Cover Gasket 103 050 00 58 $45.35 Valve Stem Seal Kit 103 015 02 20 $4.14 Front Cover Lip (u-shape) 018 997 79 47 $14.40 Front Cover Seal (round) 002 989 73 20 10 $29.05 Radiator Seal Kit Total Cost is $278.24 +tax = $320.00 Canadian Should these parts be MB oem only or would it be ok to buy them from an aftermarket source that has the parts imported from Germany? I can get the same parts from my aftermarket source, no MB packaging though, for $140.00 tax included. That price includes buying the MB oem sealant. BTW - MB 002 989 73 20 10 is $29.05 for 50ml Loctite 5900 is $32.00 for 300ml. What a difference!
__________________
1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz Last edited by lino; 10-13-2004 at 12:56 PM. |
Bookmarks |
|
|