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#1
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Guys, any immediate help would be greatly appreciated. I've know for a month or so that the bearing in the pulley on my smog/air pump was going bad. Today, it finally just locked up. Won't turn at all.
Not feeling like spending the money ($1,000 or so) on my 91 190E 2.6 w/ 178k I've decided to just remove the pump and put on a shorter belt (the one for the 88 190E 2.6 will fit, I'm told). I can NOT get the last bolt out that holds the smog pump on. It is the one on the bottom closest to the engine and beside where the hose connects. I don't think there is anyway I can get it from the top. Tomorrow (and I have to have this finished by mid-afternoon) I will jack the front right up, set it on a jack stand, remove the wheel and see if I can get it from the bottom. QUESTIONS: 1. Will I be able to get to that bolt from the bottom? Better suggestion? 2. Experience with a new, shorter belt. This belt is evidently 6 1/2 inches shorter (88.5 vs 95) and that appears about right, just eyeballing it. 3. Putting on the new belt and tightening the belt. I'm just learning on the belt tensioner deal, but think I have it straight. Anyway, I have concerns that I'll be able to get the new belt on A) Correctly, and B) on, due to tightness. Any suggestions? 4. What are the best ways to plug the hose that used to be attached to the pump? What to do with the wire/connection that goes into the top of the pump? I may reinstall a smog pump when I find one, but for now this will have to do. Thanks, I'm heading out in the early a.m. to do this and need some answers.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#2
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Hopeless bump.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#3
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I do not have acces to the service c.d. for your car; BUT I suspect from the
year /model that the ELECTRICAL connection you mention may ALERT the E.C.U. to your "Smog Pump Removal" |
#4
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You are correct, but at the moment that is the least of my concerns. I have heard that I can put some small electrical pull on those wires (small bulb) and it will sufficiently fool the ecu.
I just need to get that last bolt off.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#5
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Well, since you have no answer yet and maybe you haven't thought of this I'll just throw it out there since I have been in your situation, just needing to get the job going. If you just need to get the bolt "off" if you put a big enough breaker bar on it (think ratchet or flex bar with a long pipe on it) you can probably just break the head off and that will be that... until you want to put a new bolt in there... I am not saying this is a preferred method, but sometimes desperate times require desperate measures. I saw this thread last night and thought someone might have a better answer for you by now. However I am really worried that you say you will attack it from the bottom. Don't pull the car onto yourself!!!! Leave the wheels on. Another idea I saw on a recent thread was an air ratchet with adjustable force. Can sometimes rattle a bolt loose. Of course there is liquid wrench which has worked for me MANY times. But in the end some times the thing just shears off. Hopefully someone else can chime in with any better advice since there probably is some.
Mike
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
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