w124 300Ce 1992 Window wont go down or up - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ashman · #1 10-21-2004, 06:12 PM

Window was working fine this morning when I closed it.

Here are a few things I have checked/noticed.

1. The last few days the window seemed to move a bit slower than normal.
2. On a couple of occassions, the window wouldn't go all the way up unless I put it down a bit again and then went to put it back up.
3. Tried swapping the switched and it did not work. both switches operate fine on the paseenger side.
4. I can here a slight noise like the motor trying to engage when I push the switch.

I have a feeling it is the window regulator.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have no problems opening the door, I just am not to keen on the price tag of the regulator.

Alon

A264172 · #2 10-21-2004, 06:19 PM

Try taking off the door panel and jumping the regulator to the cars battery.
reverse poles on the battery to go oppisite direction (up or down).
this should tell you if regulator is good.
If it is good look into the wires as they pass through rubber housing from door to body the sometimes twist and break here

good luck

Ashman · #3 10-21-2004, 06:36 PM

well I hear a noise when pushing the switch, it is like a click, but like the noise the window would make if it was already up and you tried to put the window up higher. it does this on the up and down positions on the switch.

My mechanic, thinks it is the regulator himself, and he has been working on benzes for over 40 years.

I have seen this before on other benzes and it was usually the regulator.

I am hoping it is just stuck, and can be released, but with the panel off I was unable to budge it even a millimeter at all.

It looks like something I may be able to DIY if I got the part. I have to call my contact at the dealer and see how much it is at wholesale. otherwise my mech will get me the part at his cost.

Still $150 or so is not money I want to spend right now...

Alon

JoeR · #4 10-21-2004, 06:48 PM

Just having done a 4 dr... follow the other advice and get good known power to the motor and see what happens. That will pinpoint or eliminate electrical problems (mine was the good ol' broken wire in door!).

While I was in there I took the reglator out, took everything apart, including the motor, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. Old grease was very dried out and sticky.

Slick as a baby's ....

Ashman · #5 10-21-2004, 06:56 PM

I'll probably just let me mechanic take care of it soon. I hate not having a working window on the drivers side. if it was the passenger side I wouldn't care all that much.

Alon

Ashman · #6 10-22-2004, 12:19 PM

tried jumping the motor directly and got no movement, just the same like jammed sound for up/down. a slight noise as if it was trying to move it but it couldn;t because somethign was jammed.

I decided at that point to try lubricating everything. then i tried jumping it again. Nope didn't budge.

I relieved some pressure on the window stops and then it started working again. so I readjusted the window stops and all is well for now.

Definately gonna need to do some kind of Repair/Replaement of stuff in there sooner or later.

Alon

lino · #7 10-22-2004, 01:20 PM

Happy to hear that your window is working again. I wish I could help you with this matter, but I have no idea on how to fix these things. I have an Acura Legend that has a power window problem and the amount of work I put into it is crazy. 2 of my windows still don't work in that car. The following info does not pertain exactly to a Benz though it may point out to you some of the trouble areas and gives you an idea of the headache I've been going through.

Here is what I tried:
Here is a guide for those who are having trouble with the rear window such as unable to roll it up or down, usually this is caused by rust in the connector.

First remove the weatherstrip, then the center pillar lower trim.

You should see the seat belt where it's held down by a 17mm and a 10mm bolt. Remove both and seat the seat belt aside. Next you should see a plastic covering which is held down by sticky tape. Remove this carefully.

From there you should see the connector. This would be first place I would check out.

Try your best to clean it out the rust from the pin using sandpaper, screw driver. I'm going to try using CLR ( Calcium Lime Rust Remover) later this week or so to see if it would make cleaning easier.

If you have a Continuity tester open the front door while keeping the rear door close. So you can pull this open

Take the continuity tester and check if electric is able to go through the connector snap back the connector together. You should be able to touch where the wires connect to the connector.

To test the door motor find a 12v power source or take two 6v battery, some wires, and connect them together.

To test the switches you'll need the continuity tester. Use this guide to test the front and rear door window switch. I'm keeping the picture big so the letters are readable.

Driver Window Switch Guide

Passenger Window Switch Guide

If the window motor, and all the switches seems to be working fine, then you're probably having a wire problem. Get your friendly continuity tester, a friend to help out. Try testing out each of the wires that connect to the rear switch. The left window wires connect from front switch to the connector to the rear switch is green/yellow and green. For the right window from front switch to connector is Yellow and yellow/green, then from the connector it switches color to green/yellow and green.

The Power Window Relay is located in the kick panel above the hazard warn relay. That’s the 2nd relay (near the starter relay) in way to the engine. the wiring for the individual rear window switches first go through the master switch on the drivers' door.

Here my "To Do List"...

1. The easiest way for is to check the Main Power Window Switch, driver side. You should test the switch from cable to cable with a voltmeter.

2. Then check your cables within the kick panel. Are they loose?

Now what is very important and what you have to notice, when you´re disassemble this switch...

The main circuit board is held into place by a cross-head self tapping screw. The switches are sealed units except for the auto switch. To gain access to this, there is a small cross-head screw holding a small circuit board in place. Be VERY VERY CAREFUL by removing the auto-switch board. It has some locating points. It is very easy to break the board. This also happend to me, as I tried to repair it (without success). Should the copper tracks be damaged, you can make another board without too much problem (I have heared this, but never tried). There is a white plastic body about 6mm wide that holds a 3 prong copper connector. This may require gentle bending back into shape.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6544

lino · #8 10-22-2004, 01:21 PM

I even have pics of the doors sliced open to see things better:

A264172 · #9 10-22-2004, 02:07 PM

Lino, you are a madman!
loved this post by the way http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=102977

Ashman, before I found the broken wire in my drivers side rear door I
bought a combo regulator motor for it from a local salvage yard for $40.00

Though others seem to be having similar problems unrelated to regulator/motor.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105372&highlight=window

lino · #10 10-22-2004, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A264172

Lino, you are a madman!
loved this post by the way http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=102977

Thanks A264172. Many members have been very helpful and I want to give back as much as I can.

Regarding the comment of being a madman...
Take a look at my latest repair:

Just kidding. I have nothing to do with that one.

CJD300ce650 · #11 01-30-2014, 12:54 AM

I know it has been a while but I have the same issue.

I adjusted the window stop and the window was working fine on the second time I adjusted the front stop it went out. Issues is window makes noise as described above when up button is pressed and when down button pressed nothing happens. I adjusted it again and opened and closed the door a couple times and it started to work again. Unfortunately I adjusted the front stop one more time and broke the bolt and the window went up about 3/4 inch and now I can't close the door and the button went out again.

It seems really weird that the first time it went out when the stop was adjusted. (though after thought is it pulled the wires?)

Does anyone know why this would happen or could it just be the wires in the door moved when the window went up and lost contact?

Please advise

also I was wondering since the window sits so high up when the stop is not present is using the stop to adjust the position the proper way of aligning the window?