M103 2,6 wont start correctly
 

Hello
as you see im an swedish newbie on this forum (sorry for my bad english)
I have an problem with a M103 2.6 with KE-Jet injection. It wont start correctly when cold if it have been parked for several hours. its not the coldstartinjector or something like that (changed). My fathger or someone else have to push dovn the plate that measures the air (its not in the right position), if i try to adjust on the CO-adjuster its just gets weat.

when i have started the engine it runs like a purring cat ;) its no problem either to stop and start it again after a half an hour. do i have to unmount the Fuel distributior/air measure and adjust it?

Did it cold start poorly last summer? Is the cold starting behavior getting better or worse as the ambient temperatures decrease with fall weather.

Once you get it started from cold does it have a smooth fast idle somewhere between 900 and 1200 and decrease as the engine warms?

It could be the KE temperature sensor.

Duke

I've changed the KE teperature sensor.
it started okay in summer but the idle speed rised to, sometimes 2000 rpm:s so i had to shut down the engine and restart it. nowadays it runs on 750 RPM all the time, even cold (wel it's "rattle" a bit for a minute or so) and the start problems have nothing to do with the temerature. when i bought it it didnt run at all, tried to start it with startergas but its just "poffed" heavy, can the "airmeaurething" have come out of sync? my father says so and i belive more and more on that..... well im thankful for your help, and all others for that part

Read throughthis thread . It covers the kind of problem you're having. It's how I cured similar starting problems with my 260E (same engine). There are good links in that thread to adjusting the mixture in the fuel injection.

You might also look at your plugs/wires/distributor cap & rotor. Not necessarily change them, just check them over. Also check over the engine for vacuum leaks, they can make the mixture too lean.

Your english is excellent. Better than my swedish. :rolleyes:

The plugs/wires/distributor cap & rotor was the first things I've measured up and changed, the wires was okey when i used the multimeter on them, plugs and distributor parts did I change, have checked vacuum also, it runs without problems or hesitations up to 6500 rpm (hot engine of course :D )

thank for the Credit for my english :cool:

EDIT: Btw, the link to your thread doesn't work

i can add with that i can REV the engine without problems up to 7000RPM from idle with gear in neutral, it yells nice :P but its not good for the valves....

Let me try it again. :tiny: link

Now it works. :) I fixed the old one, too. One of these days, I'll learn to test the link before I quit. :confused: Looks like I pasted in just part of the link. :rolleyes4

I like smileys. :p

thank you for the link, credits!!!

Your English is better than my Swedish;). Just come back with any and all questions and you'll eventually get through any issues that may arise.

Could airmeaurething mean air flow meter?

You got a car that is easy to troubleshoot/repair and can learn all you want to about it at this site:).

yes i mean air flow meter, couldn't find the word/s for that thing
thank you for helping me with that word :sun_smile

of course i'll be here if my "swedish friends" cant help me, or i will be here often and read all superb posts, threads and so on :)

a small update, adjusted the EHA as described in "nglitz" thread, runs better but it wont start correctly, the airflowmeter-disc still har to be pressed down a little bit while starting it cold, just the first start if it's have a still-stand for a night.

if its started, turned off after 30 sec. and then start again, no problems, I'm really :confused: even so if its hot no problems, I'm getting mad on this f*cking car..... :mad:

I had a similar problem in my 300E which I fixed by installing a resistor to richen the mixture a bit when the engine is cold. Do a search for posts by me and you will find a link to how to do it in a reply to a post about rough idle.

aaaaargh...... the car's driving me crazy :mad: no rough idle but still the same problem, the rubberpart of the airmass is intact, so it isn't that part....

can it be a spring inside the airflow that isn't correctly fitted?

when i try to adjust the CO it's react directly if i adjust it just "a pair of minutes" CC or CCW if u know what i mean

Norm, did your car pass the smog test after EHA adjustment?
Is your car running still better than before the adjustment?

empty with ideas? :confused: