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Caliper heat shield question
Hello,
I've just completed rebuilding the front ATE/Teves calipers on the 76 300D, or at least I hope so. ![]() Some concerns: 1. Getting the heat shield down far enough. The book says to get the edge of the heat shield at least .1mm below the surface of the elevation on the piston. I've managed to "beat" the thing down to about flush (more like pressing with the old pads/ washers and a socket and clamp, etc.) What is the reasoning behind this, is it a squeal issue? Without the special tool, I'm about to give up and put it on the car unless anyone has a really good idea. 2. I used "Raybestos Hydraulic Brake Cylinder Assembly Fluid" sparingly to lube the parts for assembly. Suppose I should'a just used brake fluid. ![]() 3. There were some rust spots and surface imperfections in the bore. Not totally rusted out or anything, even the book says minor imperfections can be cleaned. (I used 1, and 00 steel wool). I didn't really have a problem with leaks or sticking before so I hope I can just put them back in service. DOT 3 or 4 in this car? I bought the ATE DOT4 off fastlane, but the brake res cap says use DOT 3. Thanks in advance for the help. Minor issues I'm sure, but any feedback is appreciated.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
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