Alaskan needs info on R&R ignition 92 TE 300
 

Hello I am looking for information on how to replace the ignition switch on a 92 TE 300 4Ematic we have a new switch and would like , step by step instructions on how to remove the stearing column to access the switch. Thanks Jon

The electrical switch, or the lock cylinder (or the steering lock?).
Will the key turn in the ignition?
Gilly

Thanks for the reply the key to the car was lost. And to make matters worse this is a replacement switch so it is not OE, I am buying the car and trying to help out the mech. that is working on the problem. We found a post on the list that indicated that it was easer to remove the lock tumblers than to replace the entire switch so he is going to try that approach. If you know of any pitt falls to avoid that information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jon :)

Order the new lock cylinder by vin number so you don't go through this again. It'll come with 1 key, so I'd order another 1 or 2 keys so you have a few around.
You'll need the steering wheel lock and ignition switch (electrical portion).
Yes you'd want to remove the whole column, once you get the instrument cluster and under-dash panel removed, it'll all be pretty apparent what needs to be done, plus unclamp the inner shaft at the steering gear box. Then you can unclamp the steering lock and remove the clamp, and you'll see a locking pin that holds the steering lock to the steering jacket tube. Then you can gently pry apart the smaller tube the steering lock fits in to, remove the lock and toss the whole works, and start over. It can be tricky to fit the new parts back in, post back when you get that far for more advice. Oh, you'll also need the trim piece that locks in over the lock cylinder. If you can't turn the key you need a few extra parts like this.

Gilly

You don't even need to order a lock. Like Gilly says supply the dealer with VIN and production date, and they'll make you a key. Hopefully the lock hasn't been changed by some bozo who installed a shop version. While you are talking to the dealer ask for the radio code if it has a stock radio.

Peter

My understanding by this is that it's a "shop" or "generic" lock cylinder. Yes, if the key that you lost would both unlock the doors and start the car, you should be able to order just the key by vin. If it was a seperate ignition key, you need to do alot more.
Gilly

Jon,
Now I'm confused. What do you mean by the replacement switch? Is it the one in the dash or the one you want to install?

Peter

92 4 ematic igintion
 

This is the story as I understand it The car came from the east coast. The OE lock (ignition switch) had a problem? It was replaced at some point in time, while the car was being stored here in Alaska some kids stole the key to the car and it is lost. The owner bought a lock assymbley from a person on the east coast. We have that part here, I haven't been involved with the car to much ,except for the last few days as I am trying to buy the car and would like to drive it before handing the guy a check. The Mech is in over his head on this car and would like for it to go away soon, so we are looking for a reasonable solution, to this problem.

Myself, I've explained it as best I can, if you have further questions ask away. You'll be better off using these 3 simple terms: 1-Lock cylinder (that's what the key goes in to), 2-Steering wheel lock (That's what everything attaches to; the lock cylinder and the ignition switch, and the 3-ignition switch, which is the electrical part that actually transfers power to the proper wires. Normally everything comes apart with just a little trickery, when the key can't be turned to position 2 (second click) it's stops being easy anymore.
I'm not a big 4Matic fan, cause lots of troubles, you may want to reconsider the purchase.

Gilly

There is a slight possibility that the lock that was installed was coded to the car. You need a key for the doors anyway, so order a key first to see if it also operates the ignition. I missed the part about 4matic, so since Gilly mentioned it, I go along with his thoughts. The first version 4matic was a nightmare and unreliable. You can't give them away in California. The new 4matics are a whole different animal. If you want something inexpensive and reliable in the snow, I'd recommend a Subaru or Isuzu Trooper.


Peter

You could fly me and Peter to Alaska to fix it up. We don't eat much......... ;)

Gilly

Heard this story before.
The real question is, How much do you DRINK ? :D

(In Monty Burns' voice): Quiet, you..........

Alaskan 4ematic igintion
 

I am waiting on information, to be able to answer all your questions because I am a third party in this also. From what I understand The best opption is to replace the tumbler for the ignition that the key turns with the OE coded to the car correct?

No, not really, and you should try to use the easy to understand terminology I posted this morning. It'll be a lot easier to understand if we are all calling things the same name-lock cylinder (key slides in to), Steering wheel lock (locks the steering wheel, also this is what the lock cylinder is housed in), ignition switch (the electrical part).

IF the key that started the car also unlocks the doors, then you just need a key, if you are unsure it wouldn't be the worst idea in the world to just order a key.

IF this really is a "generic" or shall we say "non-matching" lock cylinder, then you are pretty much dicked. You need to order a lock cylinder, steering wheel lock, and ignition switch and replace it all, this is where you almost need to remove the upper steering column jacket tube to disassemble it, at least this always seemed like the easiest option, if not the speediest. The new lock cylinder will include 1 new key, but again if you're not 100% sure about the current lock cylinder being generic (door key and ignition key were 2 different keys) then I'd order just 1 key to see if it will turn in the ignition. If it won't you can order the new lock cylinder by VIN (so it'll match the door key), then you'd have 2 keys for the car (the one you ordered and the one that came with the lock cylinder).
Gilly

PS: Just to clarify, the reason you can't just replace the lock cylinder (what you call the tumbler) is that the lock cylinder can't be removed without inserting the key and turning the key to position #2 (2 clicks).
Gilly

Drill
 

Can't he drill out the pin and remove the assembly. Jim

That's an option if he has a good angle drill, and a sharp, short drill bit he doesn't mind ruining. My experience has been it's easier to remove the upper jacket tube assembly to remove the steering wheel lock. OH and probably the connector to the ignition switch will be ruined so he may want to order that connector too, a good parts man will be able to find it (it's 2 pieces) where they show the wiring harnesses.
Gilly

Used Parts
 

I have a complete assembly, lock cylinder, steering wheel lock, and ignition switch that i just removed from a 90 300E(95K)...same assembly as yours...in one piece with a key...you can have the whole thing and prioity mail for 40 dollars...I can send you a pic or pics of the unit and especially the electrical connector side so you can check it again't what you have...I think that when you drill out the pin you just go in a 1/4 inch .....thats what I do....Jim

This thread is going to be longer than an oil thread soon. Let's cut to the chase and draw a flow chart.

Are you going to buy the car? No.
Then don't worry about it.

Are you going to buy the car? Yes
Order a key by VIN to unlock the doors and trunk.
You do want to lock and unlock doors and trunk don't you?

If you answered yes above and ordered the key,
did it turn the ignition tumbler also? Yes
Then your problem is solved.

Did the key turn the ignition tumbler? No
Then you need to follow Gilly's advice.

Peter

I respect that this is "do-able" and I have done it this way many times, but in my opinion it's easier to just remove the whole jacket tube and work on the sheetmetal collar rather than drilling 1/4" into what amounts to hardened "tool steel" in a very awkward position.

Gilly

Confused
 

I didn't know you could get the whole jacket tube out with out a key. I agree if the whole jacket tube is removeable without a key that that is the way to go..that it is easier to work on the sheetmetal on a work bench or a vise...Jim

Gilly -

I may have misled you. The ignition is in the dash, not in the steering column. They drilled out the tumblers so that the car can be started with a screw driver (classy, huh :) ). There are some problems with doing this. The car thinks it's being stolen. The headlights flash when the doors are opened and the high beams don't work. I have an appointment with the local MB dealer this Wednesday. I have an OE tumbler on order with a new key.

Above the mirror is a black rectangle with the following buttons "Send" "M1" "M2" "D" "End" ? Any ideas what these are for?

In the center dash area, along with the controls for the rear window defroster is a button with a circle of 3 arrows. What is this?

Another mystery. How do you fold down the rear seat? This is a station wagon. We can get the bottom of the seat to fold forward, but can't get the seat back to fold down.

One more thing. My girl friend likes to drive the car.

Ambient temperature when the car was started was -10 F. It started right up. After having set for 3 months.

Thanks for your continued support.

Jon

The thing up on the roof is for a factory cell phone, the M1, etc are memories for phone numbers (YEP that was it back then, 3 numbers!).
The circle of arrows is recirculate mode for the climate control.
Not sure on the back seat, I think you have to have both rear doors open, there is a small plunger in the door jamb that inhibits seat folding unless the door are both open for some reason. Also one of the sides has to go first, because of the privacy shade, assuming it has one. NEED to get an owners manual, I can tell.
You will see what I mean about the different parts I mentioned once they get into it, the part the lock cylinder (part that got drilled out) fits in to engages into the steering column to lock it. I guess you're not visualizing this yet.
The comment about the alarm going off makes no sense, it doesn't work this way, you have an alarm problem which is seperate from the lock cylinder being drilled out, the car doesn't care that a screwdriver is being used to start it.

Gilly

Gilly

Nice job so far on the Sprite resto.
I used to have a 1964.
Just be sure to install DOUBLE throttle return springs.
Not much fun when you're out on a leisurely sunday drive, the SINGLE return spring breaks & those twin SU's go wide open, while you're going around a hairpin bend.
Good thing it only had 65 ? horsepower. ;)

65 hp???
 

65? Hee hee hee! 46.5 hp, pal! I can't wait! "YEAH! It's got a Hemi in it!!!"
I'll remember what you said about the springs, I think (not sure right now) that it actually has 3 springs, one on each carb and one on the link between the carbs. Thanks!
Gilly