I'm going to change the trans filter / pan gasket in my '89 300E in the next week or so. I've got some questions for the brain trust...

Since I own a Topsider I was thinking that I would first suck out as much of the ATF as possible in order to minimize the flood of red stuff when I drop the pan. Is this something that I should NOT do for some reason? let me know.

Also, what is the experience of the list members regarding using synthetic ATF instead of the regular stuff. Since the trans fluid / filter are changed far less often than the engine oil, I wondered if it made sense to use a quality synthetic product.

My car has 104K miles on it and is a cherry - I want to keep it that way!

Thanks in advance. Your replies and opinions are greatly appreciated.

You will have to drain the torque convertor as well, so the topsider won't help.

I realize that the torque converter still will need to be drained but I want to avoid having the 5 or 6 qts. of red stuff come spilling out when I remove the bolts from the pan and crack the seal...
Is there a reason NOT to use the Topside first...?!?!?

BTW, Jay, my 300E has a drain in the pan. The sloppiest part of the job is usually draining the torque converter. Not a lot of space to work in. If you can do it on a lift then that's the way to go.

Jay,
I don't know how much things may have changed between the model of your car and mine, so maybe this won't help.

My car provides for draining the transmission by loosening the bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the transmission pan. It is very much like draining the oil from the engine.

Hope it turns out to be that simple for you.

You can easily drain the pan and converter from underneath. I would not mess with the topsider for this. Unlike the oil pan in your engine where nothing is in the way, There are all sorts of things in the pan of your A/T that might be bumped around with the topsider. Since you have to get underneath for the torque converter anyway, use a drain pan or two. You can drain the pan, empty your drain pan, then drain the converter.

Okay for the main reason I answered you post: DO NOT USE THE SAME FUNNEL TO FILL YOUR A/T THAT YOU USE FOR ANTIFREEZE. THE SMALLEST TRACE OF ANTIFREEZE THAT MAY BE LEFT ON THE FUNNEL, EVEN AFTER WIPED OFF THOROUGHLY, CAN KILL YOUR A/T CLUTCHES.

I hope you got that, anti-freeze is as poison to your A/T as it is to Fido.

Good luck,

queston on auto trans
 

Is there more than one drain plug on the torque converter?
thanks,
engatwork
'95 E320
'97 Honda CRV

Yes, there is more than one, but you will have to turn the engine to line up one of them unless you get extremely lucky.

Good luck,

All you will need is one. It will be at or near the lowest point of the torque converter, so it will drain fine.

Re: queston on auto trans
 

Not on your 124.032. Only one. Will reguire a 5mm allen wrench. Same with the pan drain.
There is also a drain on the trans pan, but due to the threading collar on the inside of the pan, there will still be over 1/2 quart of fluid left. So pan removal is best.
It is also important to turn engine in normal direction
when locating converter plug.

The reason I asked is because I changed the trans. fluid this weekend and I still seem to have some drip out of the bell housing area. I checked the torque converter plug and it looked dry around it. I was going to take another look this evening to insure that it is not leaking out from around the plug. My thinking is that during draining I accumulated some in the lower section of the bell housing which I assume will slowly drip out until it is all gone. I can't stand to have any drips.
thanks,
engatwork
'95 E320
'97 Honda CRV

Yes, that is what happens when you drain the converter. On the bottom of the bell-housing there is a black plastic plug that can be removed by giving it a 1/4 turn and pulling it down. That will drain the excess from the crater in the housing.
I always stick a rag in there from the front hole and let it soak up any excess . Can't stand any leaks myself !!!!!!!