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  #1  
Old 03-02-2005, 03:58 PM
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P/S Maintenance

i am going to change the filter and flush the fluid in my p/s system this weekend, are there any caveats i should know about, or is this pretty straight forward? i read the DIY written by Herbert Rocha, any other tips?
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1998 S600
2001 E430
1994 E320
1991 560SEL
1994 Turbo R
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2005, 06:19 PM
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The technique all-in all sounds pretty much ok. There's mention at the site about "clips", etc. inside the p/s unit.

On mine, you unscrew a large black plastic knob, remove, then the metal lid comes off. I then use a deep socket 10mm to remove a 10mm nut on top. With this off, a plastic piece and spring come off a rod. The filter can be removed using needle nose pliers. The fluid level indication marks are on the plastic piece.

Do be sure to remove the return hose and not the high pressure hose. I had to take the latter off once - it was leaking and had a heck of a time getting it reconnected. Didn't want to catch.
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1991 300-SEL - Model 126
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2005, 06:55 PM
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thanks for the reply, i would bet that my system is the same as yours since we both have 300SELs.
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1998 S600
2001 E430
1994 E320
1991 560SEL
1994 Turbo R
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2005, 10:15 AM
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I read through the technique and I believe it is missing a few steps. During the flush procedure the helper should turn the wheel from lock to lock to flush all the fluid. At least this is true for rack systems -- I'm not sure if it's necessary for the worm screw type. If you turn the wheel from lock to lock, it is best done with the wheels off the ground to reduce the pressure of the fluid coming out.
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2005, 11:30 AM
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I have always done it the less messy way... I always suck the p/s fluid out with a turkey baster...then change the filter..

I buy true power steering fluid...valvoline.... it is clear.... I add it back in.. then each week for the next 3 or 4 weeks i repeat the sucking procedure and add new. After about the 4th time, you have a clean system...and you can monitor the system by the "clearness" of the fluid. This takes next to no time.

I usually buy two quarts of fluid.

I tend to do the same with brake fluid in between pad changes... at a pad change, I bleed it down pretty good... brake fluid seems to stay pristine.

No mess, no fuss.

Of course I suck the oil out to change it, rather than draining it.

Tranny fluid, I do the traditional and very messy way... drain the converter and tranny, then drop the pan (the messy part-- and change the filter)

just my .02
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2005, 02:17 PM
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Lots of thoughts on how to do this. I too like the simple turkey baster approach. I do it at every oil change.

However, the regular turkey baster you buy at the grocery store won't live long. They were not designed to work with chemicals. I've been through I don't know how many.

If this is the approach you want to take, go to Auto Zone or other mass-marketer auto parts store and buy a battery acid filler.

Here's a photo of one. You may have to click on the "expand photo" section.

I bought one of these a good while back and it's holding up much better than a turkey baster.

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15616585&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=
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1991 300-SEL - Model 126
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"Fräulein"
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  #7  
Old 03-03-2005, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee polowczuk
I have always done it the less messy way... I always suck the p/s fluid out with a turkey baster...then change the filter..

I buy true power steering fluid...valvoline.... it is clear.... I add it back in.. then each week for the next 3 or 4 weeks i repeat the sucking procedure and add new. After about the 4th time, you have a clean system...and you can monitor the system by the "clearness" of the fluid. This takes next to no time.

I usually buy two quarts of fluid.

I tend to do the same with brake fluid in between pad changes... at a pad change, I bleed it down pretty good... brake fluid seems to stay pristine.

No mess, no fuss.

Of course I suck the oil out to change it, rather than draining it.

Tranny fluid, I do the traditional and very messy way... drain the converter and tranny, then drop the pan (the messy part-- and change the filter)

just my .02
i like the idea of cleanliness, but i would like to get this done in one shot and not have to revisit it every weekend. how do you think the MB fluid stacks up against the valvoline? i already ordered the MB fluid...
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1998 S600
2001 E430
1994 E320
1991 560SEL
1994 Turbo R
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  #8  
Old 03-03-2005, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Orleans, LA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee polowczuk
I have always done it the less messy way... I always suck the p/s fluid out with a turkey baster...then change the filter..

I buy true power steering fluid...valvoline.... it is clear.... I add it back in.. then each week for the next 3 or 4 weeks i repeat the sucking procedure and add new. After about the 4th time, you have a clean system...and you can monitor the system by the "clearness" of the fluid. This takes next to no time.

I usually buy two quarts of fluid.

I tend to do the same with brake fluid in between pad changes... at a pad change, I bleed it down pretty good... brake fluid seems to stay pristine.

No mess, no fuss.

Of course I suck the oil out to change it, rather than draining it.

Tranny fluid, I do the traditional and very messy way... drain the converter and tranny, then drop the pan (the messy part-- and change the filter)

just my .02
I don't think that is a sound method re: brake fluid, unless it is just to do it between bleeding all the fluid every 2-3 years (which sounds like it may be the case depending on quick you go through brake pads). you are changing the fluid in the m/c but you will never change the fluid in the calipers that takes the most heat and tends to be the dirtiest.
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2005, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas
I read through the technique and I believe it is missing a few steps. During the flush procedure the helper should turn the wheel from lock to lock to flush all the fluid. At least this is true for rack systems -- I'm not sure if it's necessary for the worm screw type. If you turn the wheel from lock to lock, it is best done with the wheels off the ground to reduce the pressure of the fluid coming out.
i thought turning the wheels might help flush the system, however i figured the pressure from the pump at idle would be sufficient?.?.
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1998 S600
2001 E430
1994 E320
1991 560SEL
1994 Turbo R
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