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#1
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What brand torque wrench to buy?
I need to replace my old 3/8 inch drive torque wrench. I'm considering either the Craftsman Digitork or the Precision Instruments/SnapOn split beam model. I know a tool truck guy so that prices with a case and tax would be around $105 for either one. The Craftsman reads from 5-80 ft lbs. with 3% accuracy while the PI reads 20-100 ft lbs. with 4% accuracy. Both are rated accurate down to 20% of their full scale or 16 ft lbs. for the Craftsman and 20 ft lbs. for the PI. The Craftsman needs to be turned down after use but it has an easier to see display window. The PI has swivel head and a 20 ft lb. higher top end. Any suggestions or recomendations?
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#2
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Personally I like click stops. I carryy a Craftsman click stop in the car in case I need to change a tire. The one's you mention are both good.
__________________
dtf 1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles) 1995 E300 Diesel (228,000) 1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000) 2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop 2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles) 2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles 2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles |
#3
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Snap On would be my choice
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Jerry 2004 SL500 Black 55K Miles ![]() 2002 s500 Black 90K Miles ![]() 1986 300E Gold 233K Miles ![]() 1966 Twin Cessna 320D ![]() 1989 Jeep Cherokee 233K Miles ![]() 1994 Ford Van E150 399K Miles ![]() |
#4
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I also prefer the click-type. For reference, I bought my cheapie 1/2"-drive torque wrench from JC Whitney for $25. I had it calibrated at work and found it is 10% off for most of the usable range. It clicks at a value 10% lower than what is indicated. So I just add 10% to everything I do, or look at the graph I made for the proper value.
It's cheap... but calibrated.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K |
#5
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torque wrench
well i make my living using tools and i have several for different operations.
my main #1 is a craftsman clicker excellent performance #2) is a proto 1/4" driver in inch pounds non ratching. i usually or try to never use my 150 ft lb wrench for small torques like 10 to 20 foot pounds. i use the inch pound because the wrench is operating in it's performance area. not too low or not too high. #3 is an import 3/8 drive for up to 70 ft lbs #4 is a beam type. i use this one for brute force and ignorance work and to lend out when someone asks to borrow my tork wrench. just MHO tks craig
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Thanks Much! Craig 1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k 1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k 1987 420sel gold/tan 128k See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html Pound it to fit then Paint it to match! There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last! Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time! Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough! Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway! |
#6
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The only one I would vote against is the Snap On (Precision Instruments) split beam type that clicks.
I bought one six weeks ago, used it once, and exchanged it immediately with the regular Snap On spring type, which is made by Snap On. Here is the problem with it. With a spring type torque wrench, when the fastener you're tightening reaches the torque, there is a click and a feeling of slackness in the handle, so you can't over-tighten the fastener. With the split beam type, you'll hear an ugly click, but it will keep tightening the fastener. So if you want to get the correct torque, you have to tighten very very slowly, otherwise by the time you hear the click, you've already gone too far. The Precision Instruments torque wrench is crudely made and in my opinion is not up to Snap On standards. The only downside of the spring type is that you have to return the micrometer adjustments to zero after use so you don't stretch the spring. |
#7
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Quote:
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Ray 1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles 2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles 1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles |
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