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  #136  
Old 02-28-2008, 07:52 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas
Posts: 796
Good job.
I still haven't found a suitable chirping horn for mine, but it's still on my list, and I have the wiring all hooked up. (maybe right after the water pump that is oozing).

DG

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  #137  
Old 02-29-2008, 10:58 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ft. Wash, MD
Posts: 93
Thanks. The siren only chirps when unlocking & locking. Otherwise its quiet (even in panic mode). But it is better than the peizo which cannot be heard 5 feet from the car.

I also took the advice from Chris. Replaced the dome lights, reading lamp, and trunk lights with LEDs ! ! They look great and Zenon White is very bright. These were cheaper prices and shipping (about $30):
Dome & Trunk Lamps (4): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1pc-42mm-211-212-214-HP-LED-Xenon-White-Festoon-Bulb_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33713QQihZ011QQitemZ320223124451QQtcZp hoto
Reading Lamp (this actually fits): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2pcs-168-194-Refractor-5-Power-LED-White-Wedge-Bulbs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33713QQihZ011QQitemZ320223124346QQtcZ photo
The LEDs took about a week to arrive from Hong Kong.

The relays are wired up for the "Radio ON til Door Open" mod. Planning to install next weekend. After over 12 years, this car is finally getting some actual creature comforts.
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  #138  
Old 06-28-2008, 07:28 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
Yes,
The DLSV you need that Crutchfield wont mail to you is made from the basic relays, it is just already assembled. Just follow the diagram you posted and it should work fine. I made my own and it works perfectly.
Good luck.

AT long last, I have finally attempted at hooking up an Omega REC-11+ with the relay set up shown here (yes I wired two relays together ). Anyway, I hooked it up to the vacuum pump connectors on my 1987 260E and it kinda work.

I press the lock button on the remote and sure enough, the locks moves down on all four door and the trunk. However about 1 second after it moves down, it pops right back up into the unlock position.

What could I be doing wrong??? Thx in advance.
Attached Thumbnails
I did it! Keyless entry for your 124 made easy (and less than 0)!-keyless.jpg  
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  #139  
Old 06-29-2008, 12:30 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Louis Missouri
Posts: 473
The lock signal needs to be present for about 1 second or maybe a bit longer for some vehicles. If the omega unit you are using can be programmed, try setting the lock pulse time to about 1.5 seconds.......

J. M. van Swaay
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  #140  
Old 06-29-2008, 12:44 AM
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Location: St. Louis Missouri
Posts: 473
Just looked more closely at the schematic you provided--I see you already have a 2 second pulse. Is there continuity between relay contacts 87a and 30 when the relays are not energized? (can you still operate the locking system with the key in the front left door? if so, you have continuity between these contacts)

J. M. van Swaay

Last edited by J. M. van Swaay; 06-29-2008 at 12:50 AM.
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  #141  
Old 06-29-2008, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. M. van Swaay View Post
The lock signal needs to be present for about 1 second or maybe a bit longer for some vehicles. If the omega unit you are using can be programmed, try setting the lock pulse time to about 1.5 seconds.......

J. M. van Swaay

Well this unit can be programmed for either 0.8second or 3second. So I current had it set for 3 second.
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  #142  
Old 06-29-2008, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. M. van Swaay View Post
Just looked more closely at the schematic you provided--I see you already have a 2 second pulse. Is there continuity between relay contacts 87a and 30 when the relays are not energized? (can you still operate the locking system with the key in the front left door? if so, you have continuity between these contacts)

J. M. van Swaay

I hooked up my multimeter in continuity test mode and it shows continuity from 30 to 87a (on both relay). I didn't check to see if the key still works in the front lock. But according to the circuit shown it should still works because when the relays are not energized current should flow through the blue pump wire as before.
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  #143  
Old 06-29-2008, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Louis Missouri
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I'm not sure I can be of any more help.

One thing you might try is to manually activate the lock relay by grounding pin 86. Leave the ground on for several seconds. (maybe 5 or 6) If you have a successful lock, then you will know that your omega provided lock pulse is not long enough. I'll have to look at the lock logic description on the MB service CD--it might be possible that if you have a leaky or slow system, 3 seconds may not be long enough.

Disclaimer: I ususally don't post unless I'm pretty sure about the issue at hand. In your case I'm not sure I have a good understanding of what your problem might be. The above suggestion is just a trouble shooting guess.....

J. M. van Swaay
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  #144  
Old 06-30-2008, 12:19 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ft. Wash, MD
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by throne7 View Post
I hooked up my multimeter in continuity test mode and it shows continuity from 30 to 87a (on both relay). I didn't check to see if the key still works in the front lock. But according to the circuit shown it should still works because when the relays are not energized current should flow through the blue pump wire as before.

IMHO, I think you may have selected another alarm setting incorrectly. IIRC, there is a remote double-pulse feature (sends 2 pulses from the remote); make sure its set to off.

Otherwise, I would first test with the key to make sure the locks. This may help isolate your problem. If the locks still works normally, I would set the signal to the shorter length and retest (will require you to be closer to car for activation). If using the key dont work, then you definately have a wiring problem somewhere (probably in the relay setup).

Note: I had voltage leakage from the alarm system causing strange things to happen. I installed diodes @ all power & device activation connections (see post #135) to counteract this and everything then worked as designed. Just another suggestion.

Hopefully, you find your little electrical gremlin... Good luck!

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