This is the second time this has happened to me now. I go to start my car and I get all the electronics/power/etc. but when i turn the key to start nothing happens. The first time this happened I had to have the car towed to a local shop where they claim to have "reset the security system". The car then started fine for a week (I would estimate 15 or more starts) and then today the same situation happened. I haven't had the car towed or anything since its at my house. I was hoping that someone here could help me diagnose the problem.

I have tried:
1. disconnecting the battery for xx minutes
2. lock/unlock from all locations
3. start the car in N and P
4. kick the tires....

BTW: When i turn the key to the run position, I can hear the fuel pumps come on (slight buzzing/hissing sound)

Is it possible to "reset the security system" as the local mechanic tells me or are they lying to me.

Please help, this is SO frustrating, I don't even have 1000 miles on the car since i bought it and I've had multiple problems. TIA

Skiier - do a search for one of my old posts - about six months ago. Or, do a 'title' search for E320 / start / or something like that. I had the SAME problem with my '95 model. Ended up having to replace the starter - lots of good troubleshooting hints in that post. Good luck. 71Rcode

The 1993-95 E-class have a starter interlock relay behind the instrument cluster. The alarm control unit must send a signal to that relay to allow the starter to operate. Best fix is to by-pass that relay!

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I found your post - did you have any indidcation that the starter was going bad? Or did it just die.

MBDoc - Is it relatively easy to bypass this interlock? I'll do a search to see how to remove the insturment cluster. Thanks for the info.

After searching the forum last night it sounds like this could also be a neutral safety switch problem. Is there any way to test or eliminate this from the list of possible causes?

The neutral/park switch would show-up as the problem IF the car wouldn't start in one or the other position.

After removing the cluster simply solder(OR have it done) a wire on the inter-lock relay between terminals 30 & 87 and plug the relay back in.

Doesn't sound like the starter BUT you won't know for sure until the relay has been defeated.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

thanks for the info on the relay, i'll give that a shot before i throw any money at the car.

M.B.Doc: per your advice I shorted pins 30 and 87 on the K38 relay (starter interlock) and the car started up just fine (well sort of...see my other post about the BRAKE light/buzzing here ).

Now, what is the name of this relay on fastlane? I can't seem to find it. Hopefully replacing the relay will solve my problem for good.

Edit2: is the p/n: P2020-25016 under Relays... i found this one that looks exactly like the K38 (and has the same pin numbers). Is there any difference between the hella and the silver (OEM looking) one?

Thanks guys for all your help!

Edit (more problems): The P.O. had done some work behind the cluster before as the ABS (or SRS I'm not recalling right now) had an extra wire coming from the circular plug on the opposite side of the insturment cluster. This wire was eletrical taped on at both ends. So>> after shorting the relay, testing the start, and then plugging everything back into the insturment cluster none of the guages work properly. The tach jumps at start up and promptly falls back to 0, oil pressure hovers just off the needle and fuel + temp have no response (although i didn't drive the car so dunno about the temp function). The lights still come on with the headlamps if that means anything.