86 560SL $2000 to replace ABS control module???
 

Does this seem right -- the ABS dashboard light stays on all the time... but $2000 to replace the module? That's the estimate from my mechanic. They're saying the PART alone costs $1700.

Most MB's from 1985 to 1992 used that same computer for ABS! finding a good used one is the best way to go!! I would think that a used one would go for $300!

MB numbers 005-545-51-32 or 003-545-74-32

Bosch numbers 0 265 101 021
0 265 101 019
0 265 101 017
0 265 101 018
0 265 101 020

have you tried HERE (fastlane)?

Make sure that the module is bad and not the OVP relay which makes the ABS light go on too and is a very common fault. Also, a fault in any of the sensors can cause the light to stay on. The module is the most expensive part to replace in the system. You ought to easily find one from a recycler for a small fraction of the cost of a new one.

I've got an ABS computer that should work. Make an offer.

Can't you take it out and throw it over your shoulder? That's what I do when a hundred ABS sensor goes out. Seriously I would suggest that your car does not have the market value to spend $2,000 on an essentially superfluous part - of course we have no snow or ice here.

Grab one from a local boneyard, ones here even have a 30 day return on bum parts for a slight upcharge... FAR cheaper than $2000. I bet you can get out for $25-40 at the most. Seriously.

HitMan,

You've obviously not gone shopping lately...especially for an ABS computer.

The guys here are totally clueless. Apparently you haven't been here. :rolleyes2

I bought a vac pump for the door locks, they thought it was a fuse block... $15. They'll just assume it's a normal PCM of sorts and you'll be on your way.



Edit... also, instead of trying to make a fortune from a member, why not help them out. :confused:

TO the thread starter - I'll be out at the boneyard this week, probably Thursday or Friday. If you want me to get you one (if they're the same on all S-class when ABS was introduced ~84+ on US cars), let me know. I'll get it for you for the cost of the item, plus shipping only. Nothing else. LMK via PM.

I've picked up some parts along the way expecting that at some point I'll need them. That has held true for a couple of items already. I'd hardly part with an extremely expensive part for mere peanuts just for the sake of doing so. Especially when I paid more than was offered for the part.

Personally, I'd have a hard time buying a vacuum pump, or some such part, under the guise of it being something else...but that's me.

Well who's to tell you don't run a parts service online own 50 acres and part cars then just not trying to sell someone parts... that's what I got out of your post. No other info was provided. The diesel forum where I hang everyone is more than happy to lend a hand in finding parts or sending stuff along that someone doesn't need.

ABS Module from an 80s vehicle isn't worth much... EEC-IV PCMs for Fords are used to operate the vehicle and they sell new for $200, they sell for $40-80 to give you an idea. ABS isn't required to motor around, just nice to have. It's not like the Module in question is made of gold or super hard to come by, every S class from about 1984+ in the US had them. They're all over the place.

When I brought up the Vac Pump to the counter he said "is this a fuse block"... I said sure. Why disclose more information than necessary to someone that can charge you more for the same unit in front of them when you're charged for everything from entry free to exchange policy.

SOLD!:smash:

Have ordered an ABS module
 

Found one on ebay for $20 tested and guarenteed. No offense to anyone, but I'm very happy. I will let you all know how it works out. Could also be a sensor or rust on the coggy things.

Excellent. I was tryin' to help ya out if you couldn't find one. :)

Abs
 

Before changing the ABS unit, it would be a good idea to check the speed sensors which feed data to the ABS system. My 87 300D has 3. One on each front wheel and one for the rear just forward of the differential. check them 2 ways. First pull the front wheels and look at the sensor cable. It hooks to a point forward of the shock. While you are there, it is a good idea to pull the end of it off the point where it connects-it is just one nut-and remove all of the metal fragments. It is a magnet and collects stray metal like you would no believe. Make sure that the insulation surrounding the sensor cable is intact. Taping to repair it is probably not an option. For the rear sensor, just pull it and clean it off.

Next measure the resistance on each of the front ones. The reading should be almost exactly the same for both.

Finally, I am sure that you know this, but, just in case, an air bubble in the brake system can cause that light to stay on. Bleed and fill the brakes.

The infernal ABS LIGHT
 

The replacement ABS module didn't change a thing.

The problem is: the ABS light NEVER goes out. After starting the car the light just stays on -- the car does not have to be moved an inch.

After taking my car in to my mechanic he said it would take $2000 = fitting new $1700 ABS control module with a $300 labor charge. This took my breath away.

Got a replacement module (after a lot of help from everyone here I might add). It has been tested and guarenteed -- but I will verify the testing part. Nothing has changed. ABS light ON.

So what the hell was my mechanic thinking -- just guessing??? That part infuriates me. Oh, and plugging in the control module takes all of five seconds. $300 for that? He was having a particularly hard day removing the carpet? Oh well, let's move on.

The OVP relay has been changed. It's not the OVP relay.
It appears it's not the control module.

It could be the sensors? Wouldn't my mechanic have checked the sensors?

People here have suggested:

1) air in the lines (would that show up immediately???)

2) electrical gremlins (check all fuses -- do people here mean to check all fuses, even ones that have nothing to do with the ABS???)

3) sensors (clean, replace, etc.)

4) tone wheels (clean, etc -- but I'm thinking this would only be a problem if the light actually went off and then came on???)

Any other suggestions?

I feel like checking the control module would normally happen later in the sequence here, but I was somewhat lead in this direction by my mechanic.

How are the control modules tested anyway?

Also, and I'll throw this in: over the winter, with the ABS light on, it sure seemed like the ABS worked JUST FINE. IE, breaking on ice produced the tell tale ABS shudder.