I recently came back from a 560 mile round trip to Virginia and my car was all over the road, especially when the cross winds kicked up. I have no shaking or vibration from the front end, but the play in the wheel made it a nerve racking trip. I thought I had read that there was a way to adjust the play. If I were looking at the gearbox from the fender side, what do I look for and what tools might I need. Thanks.

As the adjustment is on the top of the box, you need a 19 mm socket to break the lock nut loose, 19 mm wrench to counter-hold the lock nut & a long 6 mm Allen socket to adjust.
Turning the 6 mm Allen COUNTER-CLOCK WISE takes out the play!
BE VERY careful & turn 1/8 turn at a time & then make sure that it's not too tight. Many times the play is else-where.
Watch the pitman arm turn as the input shaft moves.

[Edited by M.B.DOC on 01-03-2001 at 06:03 PM]

MBDoc, thanks for the instructions and tool list. Now when you say 6mm allen socket, are you talking about a long allen head. In other words, is the adjustment nut a female or male fitting?
TXBill, I am assuming my front end is good since I don't get any noticable shaking or vibration at speeds up to 75 mph. Also I had the alignment done recently and they didn't seem to have any problems doing it, and made no mention of anything needing replacing.

I was having the same problem with my 380SE. I had it checked and after a road test my mechanic replaced the steering column shock absorber. The difference is amazing and it cost around $100+/-. My mechanic, who drives a 300SE said sometimes if you adjust the steering box, it makes it worse so be careful. Check the column shock for wear.

Jack, this "steering column" shock absorber, is that shock absorber that is mounted horizontaly underneath, in the steering linkage? If so, I've never thought about that. I'll have to investigate further. Unfortunately it's been real cold and windy lately here in NJ. Even with the car sitting in park, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth quite a bit.

You can buy those shocks for around $36 I think. There are only two bolts holding it in. Coundn't be easier to replace. If you can change your oil, you can swap this part.

Rickjordan, I would say that it is not unlikely that the play is not entireley in the steering. The rear end links may also cause this type of problem in the crosswinds, so why not check them out.

I never thought of the rearend causing play in the steering, but I know that it would in crosswinds. I know that I have a problem with the rear sway bar. I don't know what the previous owner was thinking but, for some reason, on the driver's side, the sway bar was cut with a torch approx.8 inches from where the link would connect. This would definetly cause excessive leaning in turns and crosswind movement. However I never thought this would cause or contribute to steering play. BTW the link on the driver's side is still there, it just hangs there. So basicly my rear swaybar is completely useless right now. None of the junkyards in my area have any W116s for me to get another one. Itried e-mailing Atlanta-Stuttgart for a quote but they never got back with me.

That is the steering shock. The part can't cost more than $40 or so. My suspension is good, so that was the only problem they could find. It's probably worth replacing anyway if you're doing it yourself and it's easy. Tightened things right up. You should probably give some attention to your rear suspension as well from your description. Good luck.

I have already priced around for this steering shock(dampner). The partsshop wants $28 for it. I will be looking into the rear suspension. When I bought the car back in October, I knew it needed some work, so it's just a matter of prioritizing the projects. The first thing I did when I got the car was change all the fluids and filters. The next 3 things I need to give my attention to are this sloppy steering, rear sway bar, and replacing the rear springs, which are tired. The back end is sitting a little low.

Rick,
If you think the freeplay is in the box try watching the pitman arm move as you move steering wheel with car running.
RARELY does the W116 cars have rear control arm problems like the W124 & 201 cars.

Rick,
Have you ever had someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you examine each joint and component of the front end? Sometimes, excessive play in a part is easily detected by the give it gives under this pressure.
I would also check your front wheel bearings for proper adjustment.

I really haven't investigated the source of the play. 3 days ago we got a foot of snow and it's been in the high 20's/low 30's since then. So the weather hasn't been in my favor to be crawling under the car. I will print up these great replies and use them as a trouble shooting guide. Lets all knock on the wood in our dashes that it's not a bad steering gear box.

Rick,
Not sure about your model, but the maximum allowable free-play for a 124 is 25mm (1”) on the circumference of the steering wheel.

To locate the source of your 'slop', have someone slowly move the steering wheel back-and-forth over this tolerance range (and beyond), while you observe and feel for arm movement at the steering box. Determine how much wheel movement is required before the arm begins to move (slack in the steering box), and how much delay there is between arm-movement at the box and the point where the wheel (tire) begins to turn.

If you find that less than 25mm of steering wheel rotation moves the steering arm, then examine the steering linkages and arms more closely for sloppiness.

Barry, this "play" tolerance, is this how much it's allowed to go back and forth. Let's put it this way, with the wheel level, how much to the right should the steering wheel move before feeling resistance? Like I think I mentioned earlier, I haven't had the chance, due to the weather, to look into this matter, deeply. I know that with the car off, the steering wheel goes back and forth a bit more than I would like. Now you mentioned a tolerance of 1". Is this 1/2" one way and 1/2" the other way?