190E 16V Timing Chain Tensioner Installation
 

I bought the upgraded timing chain tensioner for my 1987 190E 16V. In checking how the parts went together, I accidentally extended the end of the tensioner itself by inseting the spring and barely pushing on it. There is no obvious way to push the end back in. #1. Will it cause a problem if I install the tensioner with the end extended? Can the end be pushed back? #2. Does the nylon (?) pin go inside the spring during assembly? #3. Any information on torque settings?

Thanks a bunch! Jim Herold

Push the plunger/piston all the way through and install on the first indent when you install it in the car.

If I recall, the plastic pin does ride in the spring to keep the it straight.

I think there are 2 torque setting. The body and the end cap. I believe the body is 52 ft lbs and I can't recall what I torqued the end cap too. I sure someone will chime in with the info.

Have fun.

Tinker

The plunger is currently on the first stop after being flush with the end of the housing. I read that as the "first indent." Does that sound right?

Jim

Sounds o.k..

You can go ahead and push it all the way through if you want, it won't hurt anything.

If I recall, its a bear to get the end cap on once it is in the car.

Are you just swapping the tensioner or are you replacing rails too?

Tinker

Tinker,

At this stage I am only replacing the tensioner. The original is still installed and I know the design has been upgraded twice. Even though the car has approx. 157K miles, I have a degree or less of chain stretch. I have a slight amount of chain rattle at startup, only on a hot motor. If replacing the tensioner solves this, it's my plan to stop there. Hopefully, I will be able to visually check the tensioner rail when the pressure is off of it. If it's grooved, that will be a signal to remove the timing cover and replace the chain and all rails. If it's smooth, I'll stay with my original plan of tensioner only. I have exclusively used Mobil 1 and a 7000-7500 change interval. Any advice?

Jim

Here's a reply to my own message--according to a generous MBZ tech that I talked with in the interim, simply push the plunger with a blunt end punch and it drops out of its housing. Install the housing without the plunger. Torgue to 50 nm. Drop in the plunger. Push down with a blunt end punch until you feel the first detent. Put the nylon pin inside the spring, put both in the housing, insert the end piece and screw down to 40 nm. According to the MBZ tech that provided this advice, go more for "feel" when itghtening each piece. He feels the MBZ torgue specs are a bit light and might leak. This certainly helped me--hope it's the same for someone else. Since this part has twice been upgraded, the MBZ manuals for the vehicle do not cover it.

Do you have a part number on that new style chain tensioner? Curious to see if it is the same as the one I just put in one of our cars. Jim

Jim--

Here are the part numbers that made up the upgraded chain tensioner for my 1987 190E 16V:

104-050-01-66 Body for the tensioner--this screws into the block
102-050-17-11 New tensioner assembly that screws into the above using a 10mm Allen socket
102-993-05-01 Spring that installs in the tensioner
102-991-00-01 Nylon (?) pin that goes inside the spring to keep it from flexing
007603-020100 Washer
007603-027101 Washer

There is no similarity between the upgraded tensioner and the one that was installed in my car, which was the original. I bought all of the above from Caliber Motors at significant savings compared to the quote from my local MBZ dealer.


Jim