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#16
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<
There is no connection to pin 14 on the 16 pin connector.
>> Oh . did not know that.. No idea what they use for diagnostics on that .. As far as the led , test the led/sw on you bat to confirm it is wired correct polarity. That test is Red to bat pos, odd color to bat neg .. led should light Red to bat +, blk to bat - , lamp should only light when sw is pressed.. < Still need the requested info as to the same wires with a ground test .. if one is contacting ground or crossing to another wire , you can have a wire problem.. At the cost of ECU , I just want to check all the possibles closely |
#17
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Hi Arthur,
I had the LED the wrong way around Tried again and got these codes from pin 8; 4 Hot film mass air flow sensor 9 O2S 1 (before TWC) - voltage too high, circuit open or voltage implausible 11 O2S 1 heater (before TWC) - Current too high/low or short circuit. 21 Ignition output 3 or ignition coil for cylinder 1 and 6 40 Transmission overload protection switch - open/short to ground or B+ or open or closed or implausible Reset them all, ran car for 30 secs and code 11 showed again (no other codes). Rechecked the wire's resistance; Okay between earth and all other wires. |
#18
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You have cleared the codes , but I would like you to clear and reset the ECU . After you clear ALL codes , you will get a single flash When you get that , press led sw for 8 secs and then turn key off for 10 sec minimum. Now turn key on for 50 sec and then start car. This resets ECU to norm base line . Run car for a day and then retrieve what the diagnostic module has stored... A code 21 is in line with your T/3 circuit problem as I suspected and it is possible that you have a heat sink that has let go on that T3 circuit. Pretty common , according to the info I see.. Try it out and glad you got the polarity correct. |
#19
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Hi Arthur,
Got the 'new' ECU today and my misfire is gone. I didn't want to drive it for a day with the misfire as I thought it might damage the cat. I just wanted to say thanks for all the help. Now that I know how to retieve the codes I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. |
#20
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Great
Seems like these units are starting to cause problems now , specially with the dropping of the 2 cylinders cuz of heat sink seperation.. Did you get one from a Bone-Yard..?? http://www.carclinicmagazine.com/mercedes_common_ecu_failures.html I would check that the primary ohm reading of all 3 coils are the same , as that could cause the same to happen to new ecu [ high draw]. I would also change all 3 plug connectors/resistors under each coil, as they are notorious for failure and poor contact. I personally believe they are where the load taxing of the ECU drivers has originated from day one......along with guys using plats .. use ONLY Bosch Supers/copper F8DC4 on this chassis/ w/104 engine.. Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 07-01-2005 at 09:49 AM. |
#21
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I got the part from a scrapyard, lotal cost £249.68 (about $462US) !
From your web-link.. Quote:
The plugs were Bosch super F8DC4. The ones I've just put in are Bosch super plus FR8DC+ |
#22
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Don't want to rain on your parade, but those are resistor plugs and the resistors on that system are in the connectors already,.. you are doubling up on secondary resistance with them, and don't forget, these systems are 2 plug series circuit, so you are now adding two more resistors to the circuit. I would not worry about the coils being changed if they ohm out good and uniform as much as i would worry about using Resistor plugs Do a search on these and you will see testomonies that using the cheapo F8DC4 coppers are the best for 104 w/waste spark systems .. .8mm [.032] setting/gap Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 07-01-2005 at 10:46 AM. |
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