300E suspension rebuild questions
 

I scheduled next weekend off to do a suspension rebuild on the 300E. The ball joints feel 'lumpy' on wheel lock turns in the parking lot, the brakes are almost shot, and the car spent its life until I got it on Long Island. After driving it down the LIE on the way home, I believe the suspension took a regular beating. Plus I have to pay attention to the sissy speed on the yellow signs on curves. I tried to quickly dodge a piece of garbage on the highway that I saw late one night and it almost felt like one of the wheels rolled under.

The first question is about Vogtland springs. Although there are tons of posts about Eibach and H&R, a search of Vogtland turned up 10 posts on the entire site. Mervyn says he loves the ones he put on a W126, and ksing44 said
I imagine the camber thing is too good to be true, (does any one know?) but several other posters said they were planning to get or had gotten Vogtlands. Why has no one posted about how they like them? I mean they are made in Germany, one dealer who sells all three claims Vogtlands are the hands-down winner, and they are about $50 cheaper than Eibachs ($220 vs $277 both w/free shipping). Are Vogtland owners a secret fraternity with a superior ride or are they out in the garage saying "why did I do it?"

Speaking of camber, are there camber struts available to compensate for the change? Can a 4-wheel alignment compensate for a change in camber?

Next are the struts. After reading tons of posts, I am inclined to install Bilstein comforts unless there is something I overlooked which will require the sports. I like the bank vault ride, but want to be able to dodge a loose tire in the road without feeling like I am driving a limo. The car still passes the 'rock the fender' test, but at 120k miles, it seems foolish not to replace the struts/shocks. Are the struts available to replace inside the factory assembly, or are they only available with the assembly?

Next are bushings. I assume I cannot use Sportline sway bar bushings on a stock sway bar because of the 1mm smaller diameter? Which bushings can I replace with Sportline?

I plan to use 1-bump fronts with 3-bump rears. Experience with the 528 tells me to go ahead and replace the strut mounts. Of course the control arm bushings, the tie rods, the strut bellows, the bump stops. Is there much difference in the control arm repair kit available on eBay and the ones available from Phil or Rusty? Maybe new brake hoses and rebuild the calipers (seller unstuck one caliper before I picked up the car). Ballo rotors and Pagid pads. Have I left anything out? Also, is this the time to do the rear subframe bushings, or can it be done later without an alignment? In general, I am not as familiar with what I need to replace in the rear.

Sorry for the long post, but I am working on the shopping list.

I'm not sure what "ball joints feel 'lumpy'" means, but to check the ball joints you should probably put the front wheels up and check for play in the wheel and at the joint. If the boots are torn on the ball joints or the tie rods, they will need to be replaced. Also check all of the rubber bits in the suspension, including the control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, strut mounts, rear control arms, etc. for cracks, gaps, play. The rubber bits (it's EVERYWHERE) make the car ride great and handle great, but when they wear out, they make the car ride poorly and handle poorly.

Are you planning on lowering the car or are the stock springs sagging? I don't know about the Vogtland springs, if I was going to lower the car I'd probably go with the MB Sportlines instead, since they are progressive rate springs.

If you're going to lower the car, I would use Bilstein sports, since the comforts and the HDs are designed for the travel range of the stock springs. If you're not going to lower the car, the way to test the struts/shocks is to drive over some undulating/curvy roads at moderate speed, and see if the car wallows. 120k is a little early (my '87 went to 270k before I replaced mine), but if the streets are really bad in your area maybe not.

Use the OEM bushings.


Although, if you really are going to replace everything (sounds like you are), I would just go for a full Sportline conversion anyways. The kit sold here has the springs, struts/shocks, sway bars+bushings, front CA bushings, and rear subframe bushings.

Some here have suggested that the Sportline kit did not lower the car that much. I have about 3.5" between top of tire and bottom of fender on the front wheels. I would expect a significant improvement in handling by lowering the center of gravity by 45% of that. Also I cannot see how a 1mm increase in sway bar diameter can give a comprable cost-benefit improvement.

Last time I checked (last year) the Sportline kit was up to about $1100. Looks like I can do the Vogtland springs, Bilstein comforts, rubber, (I already have the ball joints) for about 3/4 of that. The Vogtlands (and Eibachs) are also progressive rate springs. Supposedly the Vogtlands have the progression calculated by track testing (those Germans). The Sport struts are comprable to the HDs which according to one poster is 30% firmer than OEM; the replacement comforts are 15% firmer. Several suggested that the comforts would accomodate shorter springs. I really do like that bank vault ride.

Part of the problem with trying to read every post on the subject in a couple of weeks and make coherent decisions is differentiating two poster's opinions from concensus. I guess we formulate an opinion based on the posts which stick in our minds. And I find that other than a couple of threads I have open in seperate windows, I cannot remember who said what.

About the ball joints, 'lumpy' is the best I can describe the feel like the linkage hits a bump just before full turn. One reason I plan a full rebuild is I know the benefit of replacing 17yr old rubber. And although I have decent roads, the car spent its first 15 years on Long Island and I hit enough potholes leaving to convince me the suspension took a beating.

I spoke to an engineer from Bilstein on the telephone, and he told me that Comforts cannot accomodate shorter springs. If you are going with shorter springs, you will have to get the Bilstein Sport shocks / struts.

So Sports it is. Thanks for the timely input. I like the bank vault ride, but after 6 years in the BMW, it will be easier to take a few more bumps than to adjust my driving habits.

Unless you have access to a press, you may want to look into getting complete control arms (with ball joints & bushings already pressed in).

When I did mine, I had a bear of a time finding a shop that could do the press work for me (they didn't have plates/fittings that could accomodate the MB bushings)

The dealer quoted me $300 for pressing the parts into the control arms (I think they just didn't want to do it). So I returned the bushings & ball joints, and bought control arms. It's a nice way to go for a DIY mechanic, because then you have all the parts you need when you start the job.

Check out FastLane at the top of the page... I believe the parts for your car will be around $250 per side.

Just some food for thought.

Jeff Pierce

I have since found a post where stevebfl said he had never seen a set of front control arm bushings wear out so I think for now I will just do the ball joints.

I don't think I will get to the rear links/bushings this weekend either as I need more time to research how to handle the camber issue. It sounds like the K-mac kits squeek over time so I will see if I can find someone to modify the camber strut as either Benzmac or MB Doc have suggested.

I believe you can get some bolts from the Stealership for the front camber

For the rear cambers, try...
http://speedybenz.com

or

http://www.delsingmotorsport.com/mercedes.htm

Both are adjustable camber arms. When I lower my car, I will go this route.


suginami is right...if you lower your car, you'll have to get the "sport" shock. It was designed for lowered cars.

I've just started the same thing on my 86 300E. I'm planning on installing the complete Sportline kit in addition to replacing all the rear suspension links. Do the stock links allow for any camber adjustments that need to be made for the Sportline spring height? From what I've read they only lower the car about 1/4 - 1/2 inch. Is this enough to affect tire wear without compensating adjustments?

Thanks,

Gary

The lower control arms have some adjustment avalible to them with the stock ecentric bolts, but they have there limits.
A slight drop in ride hight may be within the adjustable range but of course you won't know what amount is to much until you get it all together and go into get the allingment done.

Getting the adjustable arms are a good way to go anyway incase you decide to play with the spring pads or springs in the future. You wont have to do any suspention removel.

I have a set of arms with the heim joints that I bought to install when all my other parts arrive, but as soon as they arrived a guy came out with a much better idea for street cars that requires no maintenence and use the stock bushings. So now I have a set of those on the way and if anyone wants a set of new heim style for 100.00 plus shipping (USA and Pay Pal only) they are yours but I think these are the way to go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33582&item=7986053351&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Another thing to note is: When you have it all done tell the allingment guy even though the adjustable arms are on there not to use them to correct the negative camber until the lower control arm adjustment is maxed out then do the upper adjustment to get the spec. needed.

The reson for that is when you have the neg. camber and lowered body/fenders the more correction you make by moving the bottom of the tire inwards and the top of the tire outwards as little as possible, the better your tire to fender clearences will remain.

I hope that makes sence.

G/L

I like the concept of using OEM bushings but having one point of reduced diameter in the center of the span makes me nervous. Has anyone reported one bending?

Surely someone has had an alignment done to 1993 Sportline specs with the stock camber strut? I wonder how close to spec the camber can be with just the control arm eccentric? Here is a post I found while researching the camber struts posted above:

I will admit, both BMWs I have owned had visible negative camber and do not get adverse tire wear. I saw a post where MB Doc said negative camber would make the car handle better. It is just that issue of tire wear. If adjusting to Sportline specs will prevent increased tire wear, I would consider the negative camber a plus. I had planned to replace two of the tires that came on the 8 hole wheels I bought on eBay (down to about .15" tread depth). I may wait about replacing them and try the Sportline alignment just to see the results. I will just leave the camber struts I have alone and replace the other 4 links. All it will cost is one more alignment.

If it is more desirable to make adjustment with the control arm rather than the camber strut, does anyone make an aftermarket eccentric that allows for more adjustment?

I am just thinking at my keyboard here.

Phalcon51

I researched your question when I first considered dropping my car. I could never find an honest answer. Most say the camber will need an adjustment kit. OTOH some claim they didn't need a kit to correct their camber after using the eibach springs (because it didn't lower the car more than 1 inch)...so I guess you you won't know until the springs are on and you try to align it. Keep in mind, any type of lowering will affect the geometry of the suspension. So chances are you will need a camber kit.

zhandax

A slight negative camber is NOT a problem if buying new tires more frequently (approximately every 6mo or so) is NOT an issue. But since people are using 17, 18, 19, & 20 inch rims nowadays, tires alone can cost anwhere from $125 to $300 EACH. Mounting and balancing charges run approx another $100. I can't imagine spending $1,300 every 6months to change my tires. MB does have a lower suspension set-up (sportline) like the BMW. From my understanding that lowered suspension has no adverse affect on tire wear. But to replace your stock suspension to the sportline version, it'll cost $$$$ compared to aftermarket springs and shocks.


theairboy

Can you elaborate on your post/statement:

"But as soon as they arrived a guy came out with a much better idea for street cars that requires no maintenence and use the stock bushings."

I would like more information about this. Thanks.

theairboy

Can you elaborate on your post/statement:

"But as soon as they arrived a guy came out with a much better idea for street cars that requires no maintenence and use the stock bushings."

I would like more information about this. Thanks.
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Hiem joints are self lubracated or not.

Non lubed kinds require that you check them and lube them every now and then for longer life. The self lubed types are inpregnated with things like teflon etc. so you never have to lube them. Not an expert and don't know how long that would last.

The style that I was refering too with the stock (rubber) bushing seems apealing because I would think they would last the life of the OEM units and of course should be check periodicly with All the suspention parts.

As for the thin link in the middle of that style if you look close it looks like the links are made of roughly 25-30mm dia. tubing? The center link looks like its probibly 12-14mm solid thread stalk and that is probibly as large as any heim joint end (for this applacation).

These Speedtek arms are just out and dont know if anyone even has theres yet, but I wouldn't be suprised to see a lot of feed back on the 190REV forum in the near future. If I like mine I will be posting good feedback.

P/S excuse me for mucking up the quote.....

Be sure to complete your research
 

This guy is saying "why did I do it?
Be sure to read this about a Vogtland install

Even bigger bars
 

Go big or don't go
Link about swaybars with links to other links about swaybars

Differentiating Fact from Fiction
 

Sometimes, you can even get totally wrong information that seems to be consensus. For me, ultimately there was a bit of trial and error and it cost me some money to get everything sorted out.

The OEM Sportline set-up is our best chance for avoiding problems, but I really do believe that part of the reason there are no problems is because it doesn't lower the car much at all. I wonder if just installing Bilstein HD shocks and bigger swaybars would get you just about the same thing for much less money.


Chappy likes his Sportline conversion

I think it is also very interesting that Chappy says his Sportline shocks were Bilsteins. In the pictures of his install, the replacement shocks are black, so they are not the Sports, which were designed for a lowered car. I guess Mercedes knows that the Sportline set-up is not a lowered situation, although Chappy said his car did drop with the new set-up.

Fact: My set-up really is pretty darn nice, with Eibach Pro Kit springs, Bilstein HD shocks, K-MAC eccentric bushings, +1 AMG 16" x 7.5" ET37 wheels, and 205/55/16 tires. I just need to get those "Sportline Plus" swaybars to complete what I am absolutely convinced was a great suspension upgrade.

I love my "Upgrade"
http://forums.mbnz.org/gallery/pics/W124_57782.jpg

ksing44,

I love the stance your car has. Maybe I am a bit more sensitive sitting in Music City, but mine looks more like a 4x4 when parked on an uneven surface.

I found out today that the only way I could get the Vogtlands by the weekend was another $70 for express shipping. So much for Vogtlands this weekend. Michael at PureMotorSports said he used to carry Eibach, and the reason he switched to Vogtlands was they were stiffer. As I have said, I love the bank vault ride, I just want it to corner better and sit lower. Not sure I want THAT much stiffer.

If I just change the bump pads, will this lower the center of gravity?

Another option which is looking better is just change the rubber and see how it drives. The only reason I have this weekend off is I took vacation. The next day off I will get is July 30th (EOQ at work). That means anything which does not get done this weekend won't get done until August. I just double-checked with enthusiasm; the stock struts/shocks, which I am guessing are the originals, stop as soon as I stop rocking them. And I weigh at least 230.

I will check on Sportline springs. Maybe those with one bump pads would get me where I want. I have not looked that hard at bars, I guess I will. Sure wish Rusty still ran those Sportline kit $900 specials.

I have had a normal suspension 300E , 1990. I replaced Comforts with HD's . Ride quality was firmer and not harsh by any means. Typical stock large gap between top of tire and bottom of fender. Does Sportline lower the car?
Absolutely. Don't know how much, but the Sportline looks much better to my eye. Wheel gaps much less.

I have had my '92 Sportline for about 4 years now. The springs are shorter and stiffer than stock. Control arm bushings are stiffer, sway bars larger diameter. Ride quality?

The standard MB Sportline shocks provide an excellent compromise between handling and harshness. I replaced them with Bilstein Sports about a year ago. The handling is stiffer. There is more harshness. V-Rated tires now somewhat irritating on certain interstate roads. Handling, however, is superb.

I also have a '93 Sportline that is still all stock. I don't drive it much at all, but it's ride quality is better than the '92 with the Sport Shocks.

So I would think that mixing components without knowing what will work with what could be an expensive exercise. For instance, the valving in Sports Shock is engineered to work with shorter, stiffer springs. Shocks need to match springs. If you do the springs and not the sway bars, then you have left out a piece of the puzzle.

Steve

For the record, I just got off the phone and have Sportline springs, sway bars and bushings on the way. I needed all new rear links, diff bushings, front tie rods, and I could not find my ball joints, so I got them too. This is on top of new rotors, pads and idler arm bushing kit I already have on the way. Since this is bumping the hobby ceiling in one shot, I waited on the struts/shocks; I can abuse the originals until I get some more time off and I may not need an alignment when I install the new ones later? BTW, the Sportline struts/shocks with the star are Boge which would explain why they are black and why they ride a bit softer than the Bilstein Sportlines (even if they only last 150k miles).

Question, are the Sportline front bushings for the the control arms or the sway bar? Control arms will mean I need a shop to press the old ones out which means I will need to do some more fast planning.

Control Arm Bushings

Steve

I did the ball joints and re-bushed the control arms.

It is NOT hard! People get all hung up on it because nobody will do it for you. I've written it up and showed pictures of the installation.

PS: Unless it's changed in the past 6 months or so, the front factory ball joints are made by TRW and cost me $18. each. You should consider the lower joint in the rear axle housing.

Michael

I am still sorting through part numbers to determine if I have another box on the way, but as of the last delivery Friday, I have everything but the front Sportline springs and the Sportline forward rear subframe bushings. Of course the dealer does not stock them.

I will do the ball joints since I have the Mercedes press, but what else can I reasonably do this weekend which will not duplicate work? I don't want to drop the rear subframe twice and I would really rather not leave the front up on jack stands with no springs. I wonder if it might be pointless to rebuild the brakes since that will just be in the way of replacing everything else?

zhandax,

Can you tell me where you purchased the ball joint press for the W124 and what it costs? The only one I can find listed is only for the 116, 123 and 126 models.

Thanks,

Gary

I rented the ball joint press along with the spring compressor. The only markings as seen below are AST / Made in USA / 00 (year of mfg?) and M0462. It looks like the Harbor Freight version someone here modified and posted is a reasonable approximation.

I also realized something else I overlooked. I live down south and decided to do this in July (which because I did not finish this weekend means it will run into August). Not some of my better scheduling.


Samiam4,

By the 'lower joint in the rear axle housing' do you mean replace the rear control arm bushings (inner and outer)? I added those to the mix along with the diff bushings.

According to the AST Tool page this is the ball joint press for the W116, 123 & 126 models. Did it work ok on your 124 without any modifications? I believe one of the sleeves for the 124 tool needs to have a shallow cut-away on one end.

Gary

I discovered the control arm bushings were in the next box also, and saw no point in changing the ball joints in car, then later removing the control arm to change the bushings. I will report when they are changed and if it appears illustrative, will post photos.

-dan

Some good news... I have the 4 bump springs pads up front as O/E. I assume this will provide about a 2" drop to the one bump pads. Even better, I got the first spring out with no loss of life. I wish I had removed the front sway bar before I had the spring compressed.

I also posted on this thread a question about the rear forward 'sportline' subframe bushings as listed by the 1987 Star article. It does not appear (without having the bushings out of the car) as if they will fit.

Here is an update,

Phalcon51, the balljoint tool shown appears too short for the w124. Guess I will use the other recommended method (beat it out with a 3lb hammer).

I measured the aluminum tube which goes through the bushings (5/8") and got that bit to drill the bushing. It seems there is another steel metal tube cast inside the rubber. It looks like it will take a 3/4" or 1" bit to completely drill out the bushing. Since the stores were closed, I used a carbide rod on a hacksaw frame to saw through the bushing. If you have to saw through rubber by hand (sawzall is at moms), this is not a bad way to go.

Also I have one eccentric bolt still stuck. I saw someone suggest a sawzall for this. I can either buy a propane torch or drive 160 miles to get my sawzall. Suggestions?

I had a sleeve machined which worked perfectly for balljoint removal.

I measured the sleeve on the autozone tool (ID? 2.25") and that's one diamter. The other fits the OD of the balljoint(bottom side). Round it off to give them 0.002-0.005. I dug at a shop and they had a piece of 2.5" thickwall tubing. Then machined away. I belive it was normalized 4340.

Michael

After I got a bigger hammer (thanks csnow: "you need a bigger hammer") I tried setting the 'ears' of the balljoint surround on the vice and pounding on the balljoint, but I was not sure if this was enough support so I stopped before I got enthusiastic. May modify a pipe coupling to give the arm more support.

What am I missing on this control arm bushing thing? After buying a $30 1" drill bit to drill out one of the bushings which took 1/2 hour and two drill batteries, I find that the lip belongs to the bushing, rather than the control arm. All I did was use the 4lb hammer with a vice and a #3 cheap screwdriver as pictured below, and had all of them out in about 5 minutes. One of the easier parts of the job so far.

It may be necessary to drill out the aluminum sleeve (takes a 5/8" drill bit) if they are seized. I will verify after I remove the passenger side control arm with a sawzall (the eccentric bolt IS seized.).

zhandax,

I can't really make out what's going on in the picture. Are you just using the screwdriver as a drift and tapping around the periphery of it to force it out? Did it require much force to get it to move? Any problem with the lip just bending back instead of moving the bushing out?

Gary

Yes, I used the screwdriver as a drift, but I was smacking it pretty good with a 4lb hammer. I kept the screwdriver inside against the control arm, and none of the lips bent enough to make the screwdriver slip off. I intersected the bushing at a 30-40º angle and worked opposite sides almost like a star pattern.

Are you pounding on the inside of the bushing?

By memory there is a metal flange on the outside of the bushing-the inner thing aluminum piece won't hold it back. Just a few wacks and they come out. I use a 3/5-1" chisel and a 1.5-2# ball peen hammer.

If you have an 86' with the early style thrust bushings.. those ARE a bear to remove. Looking at your pic, I don't think that is the case.

Michael

The first one that I drilled I pounded on the inside of the bushing from inside the control arm tube. That is when I noticed that the lip that the screwdriver is sitting on in the picture was comming away from the tube indicating that it is part of the bushing instead of part of the control arm as I had first thought. At that point I moved the screwdriver outside to that lip and whacked away. This seemed to go faster and work better than pounding from inside the control arm, and makes drilling unnecessary. I will see if I can get someone to take a picture of the next one as it is difficult to hold the screwdriver and take a decent picture at the same time.

I don't need a picture...

Just remove them! and install the new ones.


Michael

Are the new ones just the same as the old ones? If different, how about a picture comparing the two?

Gary

I have an '86 - what kind of job am I looking at to get them out? Have the replacements been updated or are they also difficult to install? Any idea what's the best way to attack the problem?

Gary

FWIW, Here is shot of the old bushings next to the new Sportline ones. These are the worst dented from pounding out on the lip using the 4lb hammer.

Also after a hard look, I think someone has alredy tried to sawzall out the eccentric bolt through the bushing on the stuck side. I hope they stopped out of caution rather than the other alternatives I can imagine.

Gary,

If you've got the early style bushings which are SHOWN in the MB cd(W201 style?). I'd really consider NEW arms unless you've got access to a press with a good assorment of sleeves and arbors. It was not a fun project.

There was a campain to replace them- so if your car made it back to the dealership for regular services close to being new. It should have the later-style bushings. I believe it was vibration underbraking... Mine had made it back 3 times and that was it.

As to zhandax question. No I was not talking about the lwr control arm bushings. On the rear, there is an inboard bushing. The outboard is a joint located in the wheel carrier. Kinda ball joint with a hole through it for the LC bolt.

Michael

Michael,

I will not get to the rear end until next week earliest. I think I have all the bushings for it (famous last words).

Oh,

Remember installing those new bushings. The angle is CRITICAL and different between the front and rear bushing in the front control arm.

Notice there are 2 different bushings in each kit. Mine had 2 and 3 molded in "marks" to show the difference. It would be a bummer to do the job twice.


Michael

"I will not get to the rear end until next week earliest. I think I have all the bushings for it (famous last words).
"

It's not a bushing. It's a joint-not sure what MB calls it and it didn't come up in the suspension page online. Maybe it was a thrust rod brg?

"Sir Tools Metal Clad Bushing R&R Kit is needed for the efficient R&R of rear axle thrust rod bushings found on late model rear axle wheel carrier assemblies. Incorporating a thrust bearing to ease the pulling / pushing action, reduces the wear & tear of the tool to ensure longevity. This Bushing Tool comes complete with all the proper components to efficiently get the job done right. Applicable: Chassis - W 124, W 129, W 140, "



Michael

I should have said "I will not get to the rear before next YEAR at the earliest".

Even with a seized eccentric bolt this job is not that hard when you have the right tools and experience. But getting that experience has been a long and bloody battle.

If the eccentric is seized you must get a sawzall. Do not try to sawzall the bushing from the underneath the car. It is a really miserable job, you can not see what you are doing, and you run the risk of the boneheadded move pictured below.

I filled in the cut with steel epoxy and put plenty of extra on the back side of the cut.

Instead, hammer the ball joint out of the steering knuckle and let the control arm drop so the ball joint end is pointed at the floor. You will need to spread the jaws of the steering knuckle first with a large screwdriver. Put a piece of wood on the control arm before you hit it. From the side of the car sawzall through the rubber bushing and eccentric bolt. If you have to sawzall both sides, DO NOT try to sawzall through the bushing on the second cut. Also make sure you wear heavy leather gloves. I tried sawing through the bushing on the second cut without gloves and got a blister the width of a dollar bill on my hand. The whole assembly will move back and forth in the frame slot. A week later when I could use my hand again I discovered that with one bushing cut, there is enough play on the other side to get the sawzall blade between the frame and the bushing so you can just cut through the bolt. Be careful and keep pressure on the blade toward the bushing and you will not cut into the frame.

With the control arm out you realize the bolt is sill stuck in the bushings and has to be drilled out. This takes a 7/8" bit. Even with the control arm in a vice the bit will catch and hang a lot so WEAR GLOVES. I lost another week waiting for that blister to heal. Knock out the bushings as described above.

To reinstall the bushings, use a vice, a 1 1/2" pipe nipple and silicone grease. This is called bulb grease at the parts places. The nipple against the outside metal part of the bushing will insure you place force on the internal metal sleeves inside the bushings. Otherwise you will trap a small bit of rubber against the control arm and the bushings will not snug all the way up in the control arm. Remember to note the orientation of the nibs on the bushing and reinstall the same way. The fronts will be perpendicular to the rears. I am not sure how good an idea this was, but I put antiseize on the outside of the aluminum sleeve before I installed it. I now think silicone grease would have been a better idea.

You will need a holder to knock the balljoints out and back in. I used a 2" conduit pipe coupling (thinner and easier to saw). With the sawzall, saw parallel to the threads about 3/8" from the end. Then make two perpendicular cuts about 1 7/8" apart (measuring around the coupling) and knock out the resulting notch. Lay the control arm on this fixture allowing the ears on the balljoint end to be supported by the coupling. You will get better extraction results pounding around the balljoint shaft on the body of the balljoint than pounding directly on the shaft. Pounding them out does not require near the enthusiasm that pounding them back in does.

Freeze your balljoints overnight before you install them. Put the control arm on the notched coupling and line up the marks on the control arm with the marks on the balljoint. WEARING GLOVES, hold a 1" iron pipe coupling over the balljoint and pound on it. This will transfer the force to the outside circumference of the balljoint and avoid collapsing the center dome. I did not wear gloves and toward the end of the second balljoint I struck a glancing blow on the coupling. When my thumb stopped the 4lb hammer I lost both a pint of blood and the use of my thumb for a month. In retrospect, maybe holding the coupling with a pair of channel locks would be a good idea.

To reinstall the control arms, line one up and use a rubber mallet to line up the holes. Don't forget antiseize on the eccentric bolts. To get the balljoint shaft in the steering knuckle, put a floor jack under the balljoint end of the control rod and jack up 6 or 8 strokes. Then spin the steering wheel lock to lock. Alternate jacking and spinning until seated. I put antiseize on the balljoint shafts. Use new bolts to hold the balljoint in the knuckle. The dealer told me I could use euro grade 10 bolts that were threaded all the way up, but I measured and there was 7 thousandths difference in these and the OEM bolts which are only threaded the last inch. Use OEM bolts. They are about $2 each from Phil or Rusty. The same dealer charged me $18 for two bolts delivered. Buy an extra for when you bugger the threads trying to line up the notch on the balljoint in the steering knuckle. I used silicone sealant instead of wax to seal the gap in the steering knuckle that the bolt tightens.

This just keeps getting better.

Front suspension is in the car. I am also replacing the brakes. I forgot I bought new setscrews for the rotors (hell, it was 6 months ago) and put the old one back in. It twists off. I drill the setscrew and start an easy-out to extract it. The easy-out breaks off.

Anybody want to buy a mostly rebuilt 300E?

Just to make you feel even worse - rotor set screws are supposed to be torqued to only 7 pounds, a force at which it would be impossible to twist one off. It is the lug nuts and wheel that really hold the rotor straight and in place, not the set screw. Good luck.

If you can fit the rotor on, you might just want to forget the set screw and just install the caliper, and bolt the wheel back on. Shouldn't make too much of a difference once the lug bolts are torqued.

Can you try to extract it from the back of the hub?

I tried deanyel's suggestion but there was not much sticking out the back and what little there was broke off when I tried to twist. I drillled on it until my battery went dead with little progress. I may just live without it. BTW, Oreiley's Auto parts has a flare wrench set whch includes an 11mm to remove the brake hoses. Most of the other parts houses have flare wrench sets which do not include an 11mm.