Removing 86 300E exhaust system

[Phalcon51]

I'm beginning the process of rebuilding my front and rear suspension and already I've hit a snag. I've got the complete exhaust system disconnected at all points (even pulled the exh. manifolds and all the heat shields) and all clamps loosened, but I can't seem to separate the middle and rear mufflers from the front cat pipes. First, can anyone give me some tips on how to separate the pipes without damaging them, as nothing is worn out and I'd like to re-use everything. Secondly, can the complete exhaust system be removed as a unit with the car up on jacks? The main problem seems to be that the front pipes with the cats don't clear the idler arm mount. Is it possible to wiggle or twist things enough to get it to drop past this point? I was working on it by myself today, but I plan to go back with another set of hands in a day or two.

I'd appreciate any help or advice.

Thanks,

Gary

[Bruno_300TE]

Hi Gary
I would not separate them but remove the whole exhaust as a unit. This was not a big problem with my 92 300TE - I guess yours must be similar. First I first removed the four bolts that attach the downpipes to the exhaust manifold, removed the oxygen sensor, the rubber hanger there and the ones at the center muffler. Then I wiggled the exhaust back and forth till the downpipes dropped from the enginge bay. I then released the rubber hangers of the rear muffler (I supported it with a floor jack to make it easier). The whole unit can then be pulled from the car.
Good luck, Bruno

Bruno is correct and your 86 is the same. Don't even consider separating the exhaust systme components. Drop the whole thing as a unit. You will have to move the rear around quite a bit in order to get the flanges to clear.

Depending on what I'm doing I usually don't completely remove it. I simply disconnect everything and let it down and move it side to side to get it out of the way. This will depend on whether you are working on the shop floor with jacks or on a lift. On a lift, I have used a transmission jack to get it out, but it is a bit precarious and would best be done with a helper AND the trans jack.

Good luck,

[lee polowczuk]

remove as a unit...

I once had to separate.... couldn't do it with a propane torch...needed much hotter acetylene. Took it to a high school weld shop to have it done.....

[Phalcon51]

Just to clarify, I've attached a picture of what I'm talking about. Should I be able to move the whole exhaust assembly toward the rear and clear the idler arm? It seems there's only about 1 1/2 to 2 in. before the rearmost pipe hits the lower bulkhead. If you say it can be done, I'll get in there with my son and do it. I figured splitting the front and rear sections would give me a little more manipulation room, but I'd rather not separate them if I don't have to.

Thanks,

Gary

[Bruno_300TE]

The 92 300TE does not have precats on the downpipes, I do not know how much of a problem they are. Otherwise it looks the same. On my car I manage to remove the whole exhaust in five minutes (that's after the fourth time I did it).
Good luck, Bruno

I know that it is a big problem to pull the entire exhaust system out, getting the precats enough clearance. I can't remember ever pulling the entire system away from the car. As I recall I have always just moved it around out of the way of where I'm working at the time. Does it REALLY need to come out?

I'm sorry I can't be more specific.

Good luck,

[Phalcon51]

Originally Posted by LarryBible

As I recall I have always just moved it around out of the way of where I'm working at the time. Does it REALLY need to come out?

Well, I've had a transmission leak from the front of the unit for some time now and I figured that now would be the time to get at that as well, so yeah, unfortunately I think it does need to come out.

Anyone else ever dealt with this problem before or have any ideas? They didn't build the car around the exhaust system, so there must be some way of getting it out that I'm just not seeing.

Gary

[Phalcon51]

Still looking for help if anyone has any ideas on how to get the downpipes past the idler arm.

Thanks

Gary

[Phalcon51]

Well, I finally figured out the secret! I brought my son Kyle down with me to help manhandle the exh. system and no matter how we pushed, pulled twisted or turned there was no way the pre-cat bulge was going to clear the idler arm. It was hung up on about 1/4 in. of the edge of the idler arm top dust cover (see pic. below). It seems that it's necessary to remove the entire idler arm assembly, including the rubber/metal bushings which have a flange that still sticks out far enough to foul the pipes. So I got out my trusty Front End Tool Set (Pep Boys - $90 on sale) and used the scissors-type (upper right in pic below) to pop off the drag link and the outer right tie rod end. The right inner tie-rod end (attached to the idler arm) is easier removed after the idler arm is off. We pushed the exh. system up and forward and removed the idler arm pivot bolt, top and bottom dust caps and the two rubber/metal bushings. These pull out from both the top and bottom relatively easily by hand. Once the idler arm mounting tube is bare, the pipes just squeaked by with a couple of millimeters to spare. I was planning to replace the tie-rods, drag link and steering damper and idler arm bushings anyway, so it all worked out ok in the end. I had pulled the exh. manifolds earlier to repaint them, but I think that it may have been necessary to remove them anyhow to have space to move the pipes up to get clearance for removing the idler arm bolt.

Hope this helps the next person tackling this job.

Gary