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Hood pad installation
Just got a new hood pad for my '92 500SL. Anyone know what adhesive to use for the pad?
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Did mine 2 years ago on a 1989 300e, I used 1 spray can of 3M
super trim adhesive, works well, still holding, I sprayed it heavily. Can buy at any auto parts store. There is a 3m trim adhesive and a 3m super trim adhesive, both cans are similar, the super trim is the heavy duty type.
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benzino Last edited by congonatty; 11-01-2003 at 07:49 PM. |
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Be sure to cover the engine, fenders AND windshield because the spray adhesive does float. It can be a major pain to get off the above items.
Follow the instructions on the can, 3M makes good products. In case you do need to get it off, the 3M adhesive remover is great stuff (don't ask why I know this!) Additionally, it is great in removing the old adhesive before installing the new. It is good to use your hand and slap/pat over every area of the hood pad to ensure excellent contact and to reduce the possiblities of it coming off in the future. Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
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Thanks for the info.
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Anyone know what happens when you use the General Trim Adhesive instead of the Super Trim Adhesive? Just curious...
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Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales ---------510-331-4118----------- 1982 240D - (272,000) 1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid" 1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay" |
#6
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Try This procedure by Dan Penoff that I saved as a word document. It worked for me. I used the 3M spray adhesive and the MB adhesive. BE SURE TO COVER THE FENDERS AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT WITH A SHEET UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND HOURS GETTING THE OVERSPRAY OFF.
1. Raise hood to full vertical position 2. Find junky sheet to cover whole front of car/engine compartment 3. Get hard plastic scraper (a windshield ice scraper does very well, and I have no current use for one where I live anyway!) and start scraping 4. When you get the adhesive see if the supplier has 3M Adhesive and Decal Remover. This is really nasty stuff but will not harm automotive finishes other than to strip the wax off. Very flammable as well, so don't do this around the water heater or enjoy a Macanudo while applying it. Soak a shop rag in the stuff and get it all over the remaining gook from the old pad. Since it's mostly naptha it does evaporate quickly, so work in small areas. Once the remains of the pad are softened up scrape away! Don't obsess about complete removal, as you won't get all of it off. Some people use metal scrapers such as putty knives which are pretty dull, but I prefer not to. My concerns are that scratches in the finish could possibly rust from moisture trapped in or under the pad. Certainly don't want my hood rusting from the inside out! 5. Once all this is done carefully apply the adhesive. I say carefully since it will attack painted finishes on you car, so spray close to the hood and avoid any overspray. I like to spray a 4"-6" section across the top (front) of the hood with a corresponding application to the pad in the same area. Let the adhesive set up the prescribed amount of time. 6. Get the pad lined up and stick it on in one corner. Line it up on the other corner and make sure it's in place, then press it down. Now the pad will be hanging curtain-like from the leading edge of the hood. 7. Apply the remaining adhesive to the hood and pad and press it into place after it sets up. I have a brayer (a hard rubber roller used for laminating) that I like to use to go over all parts of the pad, making sure it's stuck on well. Leave it in the vertical position for an hour or so, then you're done! Haasman is right - cover and everything and then do it again' Also dry fit it first to give you an idea - a second set of hands will help. |
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How to remove plastic fasteners
There are several plastic fasteners at the front underside of the R129 hood that secure and align the pad to the front of the hood. How do you remove the plastic clips at the front of the hood without breaking them?
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'93 600SL 20k miles |
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Here's the 3M part nos:
#08984-3M general purpose adhesive cleaner-1 US Quart #08090-3M superweatherstrip aerosol adhesive #08987-3M adhesive remover (aerosol) Don't make the mistake of using 3M-#08060. It will peel off in the summer heat. Re-gluing with 3M-#08090 will fix that. Also, you'll probably break a few of the plastic attaching plugs that become brittle over time because of the heat under the hood. Buy a dozen (they're inexpensive), or so from your MB dealer. Good luck. Last edited by 5280BENZ; 07-15-2005 at 12:46 PM. |
#9
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Or go the EXTREME route as I did...remove the hood completely from the car (used markers and painters tape to keep track of original hood alignment to hinges) and placed hood on a work surface.
I needed to get some dents removed as well, which is why I got the hood off in the first place. PO must have had King Kong work on the car as there were two distinct depressions from someone leaning forcefully on the hood while closing it!
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
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