New guy, old question?? 2.3-16 190E
 

My wife has a German spec 190E, 2.3-16 valve. It has only 83k miles on the clock and she is having problems starting it at times. At other times, if she has had it running and then shuts it off, it may be 5-15 minutes before she can start it again. I took it to the diagnostic center here in England and was told that

"there is fuel up to the 'plenum' but when it was hot, no fuel to the injectors". the tech also said that,

"there might be a weak spring in the 'plenum' or the seals may be dry, and may not be allowing the 'metering rod' to reposition, thus preventing the proper fuel/air ratio required for ignition".

A few times, when she has let off the accelerator, the engine has died and it's taken her about 5-10 minutes to restart it. That is dangerous on a busy road.

As I am new to these particular engines, I must ask, is there any credibility to what he is saying and/or is it something else. Once it is up and running, it has very credible performance. This was proven in Germany, before coming up here to England, when the Polizei were slowing traffic down due to a major truck accident further up the Autobahn. I was told I was doing 235 KPH, should be prepared for the accident, and slow it down.

Any help would be appreciated.

Slitherwick48

When it cuts off do you here the fuel pump come on when you turn the key. The fuel pump is locate in front of the right side rear wheel. Put your ear around that area and let your wife try and start it. You should here a buzz. If you don't then you can check the fuel pump and fuel pump relay for problems by doing a search on this forum.

Check the OVPR....Over Voltage Protection Relay.
It has a 10 amp red fuse in the top.
Located behind the battery drip shield. Aluminium can with plastic flip top to cover fuse.

MB updates these and it controls power to CIS-E.
About $90.00 us or £50.00 uk.
You old unit will have a date on it.....more than two years old...renew it.

.

Engine off, with the air cleaner removed for access to the airflow meter, try depressing the metering vane. It should not stick or act gummy, and should return smartly to its stop when released. If not, this could be what he is describing.

Other causes besides problems with OVP or fuel pump relays could be throttle linkage or switches.

Steve

Hades hath no fury like my wife when the Merc won't start
 

OK, Guys, thanks for the feedback. Here's what I know.

1. With the filter cover off and the filter out, the metering vane moves quite freely, both up and down.

2. When I first turn the key to start the car, I will here the fuel pump. IF it does not start and it usually won't when the wife tries to start it, THEN with any subsequent attempts, I will NOT here the fuel pump (or what I think is the fuel pump). What I hear at first sounds like something 'electro-mechanical' is being activated. I will not hear it again until about 10-15 minutes have passed and then try to start it again. IF I hear this 'electro-mechanical' sound again, chances are it will start.

3. There is a smell of gasoline in the engine compartment during the time it won't start.

Any additional help will be appreciated and I WILL let ya'll know what the official diagnosis is after I take it to the stealership tomorrow, Providing I can get it to start. We had to leave it in the parking lot at the wife's work, on base last night (my time).

Mercedes Diesel........looking for a good year......
 

I will be relocating back to the U.S. on official Government orders in the next month or so. San Antonio, Texas to be exact and will be looking for a Mercedes Diesel for myself and possibly the wife if her 2.3-16 Cosworth decides to die for good.

What was a nice year for a wife who likes reliability and what is a good year for me, a guy who loves classics?

Gotta have a VERY reliable Air Conditioner.

Thanks.............. :sun_smile

Fuel may indeed be leaking past the fuel distributor metering rod into the intake plenum. When the car will not start, open the vane and see if raw gas has pooled underneath. This will overrich the intake mixture more when starting than while actually running, and affect it more when warm.

Steve

The fuel pump is underneath the car towards the rear. It should buzz (rather than click) when you turn the ignition on. This information relates to the 8v though - the 16v's electrics are more complex so may behave differently.

Are you taking the 16v to America with you?

I am in England and looking to buy a 16v; I also have the time/facilities to trace a problem like the one you're having (well, I say that now... but on a 16v who ever has enough time? :D).
So if you want to get shot of it I'd be interested..

Pop into the diesel forum on this board for more diesel chat & knowledge than you could ever hope for LINK. To me the rule seems to be - the older it is, the longer it will last and less will go wrong, but the worse it will handle and the slower it will be (especially diesels!!).



good luck

Russell