I have spent several hours reading through all the suspension-related posts and have learned a lot from them, thanks. I think we could really use a good thread on the best procedure for a complete W123 rear suspension rebuild (without lowering ride height). Richard Easly documented a procedure for the W126, but there are no photos and the procedure is just for the subframe bushings. I just got done changing all the calipers to the newer ATE ones. I got tired of having issues with the Bendix junk. Also got new Balo rotors and Pagid pads, changed the brake fluid, and replaced all the brake hoses.

I am planning on doing the following maintenance work and documenting everything with photos and notes as I go for everyone needing these things done.....

1. Replace subframe bushings, possibly bolts too depending on condition.

2. Replace trailing arm bushings, bolts if necessary. Which one should I use, there's a repair size and a regular size. Also which vendor has the best rubber?

3. Straighten the spider plates (one was bent), removing rust - treating with POR-15 and chip guard.

4. I have a broken left (generic it turns out) rear shock from a bogus mechanic's work when I was living in Chicago. (That jerk also broke my injection pump rack damper mount by turning the bolt too far, put in a non-MB washer pump screwed to my inner fender, and hung my exhaust in the wrong place. I sent the guy packing! He was so incompetent he should be glad I didn't sue him...BTW - Import and Domestic in Evanston, IL ---avoid these guys...) Manfred (the Man!!) Pfeiffer at H&M ******** in Westchester, IL (German born and MB-factory trained expert, now retired, his company, H&M was passed on to Manfred's top mechanic...my Diesel misses you Manfred!) put everything back right again, except for the shocks which we did not know then were generic. I am now replacing both rear shocks with new Bilstein HD's.

5. Removing rear springs, rustproofing, repainting, replacing (the old vaporized) rubber coil top shim pads with the 19mm ones. That oughta stop the knock knock jokes this car keeps repeating...

6. Rust removal and treatment of all suspension subframe and trailing arm components. Por-15 paint, then Transtar Tex coat Chip Guard.

7a. Replace differential mount.

7b. Check differential seals and replace leaking ones. Am I crazy to try this? Anybody done it?

8. Replace driveshaft flex discs and mount/bearings. Again is this a *****? No procedure found other than in service manual.

9. Rustproof exhaust system. and re-hang with new rubber.

10. Change trans shifter bushings (I hear it's easy and I'll be under there anyway)

11. Change the fuel tank strainer. Yucky black stuff...ewwww..thank God for gloves.

12. Replace rear sway bar connecting rod ends and bushings. What's the best vendor for these?

13. Replace big rubber snubber stops near sway bar ends. Again who's the best vendor?

14. Lots of rust removal, welding and reinforcing if necessary. Followed by rustproofing with POR-15, and acid-etch primer. Then coat everything with Transtar Tex Coat Chip guard...

I am looking for other suggestions on things I should do while I'm under there....and especially photos or procedures of how others have done this if they exist...believe me I've looked.