1995 E320 Code 3
 

My check engine light went on. I read the code and got only a Code 3 (Lambda control inoperative). The car runs fine. Where do I start looking for the problem?

Erase it and see if it comes back, if so, replace the oxygen sensor.

See what it is coupled up with at pin *8

Arthur, how do I perform this procedure?

with an LED code tester...you can build your own:

http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/ledtool.jpg
also check out this thread: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107630

or buy one from me...see my ebay link

Hey
Do I get Royalties ???????????????????????????????

Just make the tool and then you can get the codes from the other modules .
R Shack parts .. $5 will do it.
Getting the codes is the same as the built in sw/led you used for the diagnostics module. Interpretation is the key.. post what you find.

Haha :D If i gave you royalties then wouldn't I have to pay out to every other member who posted code descriptions, model information, connector locations, etc.

I think you over-priced it a bit....
I had made quite a few for members and tech friends over the years , and some are still being used...but I never sold any.
Doubt you will get $50 for one, though you never know . if one can get $30 for a 19 cent resistor for aux fan, guess one can get $50 for a 49 cent diode..
good luck to ya .. I like the spirit of it ..
Want a simple OBD11 other one to try ??

Pin 8, Code 13
 

Okay, back to me now. I made the code reader and got a Pin 8 Code 13 (O2S [Lambda] control system operating at rich or lean limit). What's the next step?

For the heck of it I checked Pin 14 and got Codes 2,5,11. Anything to worry there?

if you look at the thread that I posted you'll find this:

PIN 14
code 2 = EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or Safety contact switch (M16/1s1) or Stop lamp
switch or Cruise control switch or Actual value potentiometer or Starter lock-out/back-up
lamp switch or engine speed signal or vehicle speed signal or closed throttle position
switch or safety relay in EA/CC/ISC control module
code 5 = Stop lamp switch (S9/1)
code 11 = Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module (HFM-SFI or Left LH-SFI)
Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI or left or right LH-SFI)

Before replacing anything I would reset the codes and then see what returns.

Yes, I checked your link for Pin 14 codes and copied them for my personal archive. I imagine the codes are nothing to worry about.

Anyhow, I cleard the codes - though for some reason I couldn't clear codes from the built-in code reader - and the check engine light is now gone. Did the car just have a hiccup, or should I still check something? I did a search and found a post where somebody mentioned that O2 sensors seem to need replacing around every 60K. My car has 67K.

I would drive the car a few days and then check the diagnostics again. If the same codes show up then you know there's a problem there.

Quick and stupid question while you guys are on this topic-- where's the on-board code reader? 95 e320 for me, too.

It's in front of the battery mounted on the inner firewall. Flip open the lid, press the button for 2-4 seconds (ignition switch at ON position), and you're reading codes.

Seems like these codes comes up often for this model. I ended up replacing the engine control module, the last step, after various other checks.

Pin 8 code will come back long before the check engine light illuminates. You can reset the adaptation by clearing pin 8 again after you have cleared all the codes and get 1 led flash.

Thanks, Kestas.

Exactly.

Clearing codes and resetting memory mean with the code retrieve tool are two completely different procedures . I did not want to get back into this thread when it got hi-jacked , but , as Z states .. get the ECU back to Mean and then go back to pin 8 [ and 14 , as as CTP sw can be faulty]for code fault storage . The CE is simply getting the end accumulation of faults detected by the HFM/SFI and AE/CC modules because they have finally reached the point of affecting Emmisions Mandated Faults [ That is what the N/59 module does and that is why I had you go to pin 8 to see which engine management faults were finally causing the Emmissions Module [N59] to activate CE lamp. As you can see , the problem you have is directly picked up at pin 8 module and is a A/F mix that is out of ECU lambda limitations to correct.
Cutting and Pasting code charts to remedy your problem do nothing to help rectify or interpret your a/f problem. And simply clearing a CE lamp does Absolutely nothing to address the problem, except turn off a light..
There are several simple checks to be made from that modules info , which
are from a bad fuel pressure regulator and vac leak , all the way through the system to the the ECU [ as in Zaf's case .. I remember that one]
Get the memory reset on 8/14 and then check for vac leaks and fuel pressure diaphragm leak at intake line/fuel rail. Look for any eveidence of raw gas at the vac line port of regulator, as this is a common fault, as is the white plastic vac. line crossing the front of the engine going to the Switch-over-valves . They break from heat fatigue and crack on all 104s. The recommendation here is to eliminate the plastic and go with full length rubber hose to SOVs..
There are other simple checks , but these would be first possibilities on my list due to high frequency fail rates and checking simplicity..

Sorry, I didn't mean to sound so mean or concieted in my post. I didn't know if Ketas had checked that link. Obviously you know more about the cause of the codes than I do. I know that we all appreciate your help around here Arthur.

The check engine light came back on this past weekend.

Built-in reader:

Code 4: Air injection system faulty hot film mass air flow sensor with hot wire.

Code 19: Injectors circuit open or circuit short emission control module adaptation in engine control module at limit.


Pin 8:

Code 13: Idle speed control (ISC) system at upper or lower control stop or CC or EA indicates "limp home" mode.

Code 20: Self-adaptation at idle speed or upper/lower partial load at rich or lean limit.

Pin 14:

Code 2: EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or Safety contact switch (M16/1s1) or Stop lamp switch or Cruise control switch or Actual value potentiometer or Starter lock-out/back-up lamp switch or engine speed signal or vehicle speed signal or closed throttle position switch or safety relay in EA/CC/ISC control module.

Code 5: Stop lamp switch (S9/1).

Code 11: Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module (HFM-SFI or Left LH-SFI) Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI or left or right LH-SFI).


The car runs fine and the codes are now cleared. Both times the check engine light came on was during startup and stayed on through several start cycles until I cleared the codes.

Were you able to fix the problem?

I had codes 3,4,19

Pin 8 13, 20

and a few for Pin 14

Very similar to what you have. Again, replacing the ECM fixed all the codes for me.

Not yet. The car is in storage until springtime.

Before storage I replaced the O2 sensor and still had problems. Since then I started another thread, which I believe is related to this problem:

AIr Pump Won't Shut Off

This problem presented itself about the same time I was having O2 sensor problems. I think the problem is that I spliced an O2 sensor that works in olders models but is not appropriate for my vehicle. I've been researching the sensor part numbers and I find that the universal sensor for each application is different. My next step will be to buy the proper O2 sensor. Hopefully all problems will then go away.

I'd hate to think that I need a new ECM. How much did it cost you? How can it be best diagnosed?... dealer?... indy? It would sure be nice if I could swap it out for just a day for diagnostics.

Dealer wanter $1800 but I got one from the "recycle yard" for $150. Took me about 10 min to install. No recoding required for me atleast. My car is California emissions with ASR.

Before the Swap, car drove fine, except for the check engine light, that would illumintate a few days after resetting adaptation.

Dealer can easily swap it out for you for testing.

This may make sense because the relay for the air pump is integral with the ECM. Anyhow, thanks for this info. Hopefully it leads to a solution to my problem.