I have an '88 300E which I just purchased, but it has a synthetic engine oil in it. I want to replace it with regular engine oil since I have never seen this type before (and can't find any) and don't really like synthetics anyway. Is there a certain procedure to follow or should I just do a normal oil/filter change (and maybe flush)? Appreciate your recommendation.

Abaloneman,

Welcome to this forum. You will find good information and helpful people here.

You say you just acquired your car. Well, before doing away with the synthetic oil for good, may I suggest that you do a search on engine oils here? I think you will find a majority opinion that synthetics are the best you can do for your engine.

As to availability, Mobil 1 synthetic seems to be sold everywhere, auto supply stores, Wal-Mart, etc., almost anywhere motor oil is sold.

However, if you are determined to return to dino lubrication, flushing is not required. The oils are compatible. A normal drain and refill will be okay.

Have a good day and good luck.

Aboloneman
 

Dino oil. Pennz 20-50w for 170,000 miles and looking toward 200,000 miles without the engine ever being opened. Boy if I would have used the high priced spread i may have made 300,000 mile, what do you think? But at this point, I wonder how much($)I've saved?
Duck for the cannon will roar on this subject.

Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston

Donald

I should add that the engine is placarded with a plastic note saying NOT to add regular oil ... that the engine is "permanently lubricated with SYN! SH+". I've never heard of this lubricant and can't find it to add to crankcase. The lube level is getting down towards add, and I want to change it anyway since I have no record of when it was changed last.

This is just a guess but, you should ask what is the name of the engine break-in oil. Also, it might also be a oil additive but, remind you this is just a guess.

Have to admit, I have never heard of that oil or anything like it either. Are you in the United States? Perhaps someone else in this forum can shed some light on that note.
However, I would take the note with a grain of salt in any event, because, as far as I know, nothing "permanently lubricates" an automobile engine.

Mr Swinford's comments are well taken. Given the crankcase capacity of MB automobiles and the recommended frequency of changing the oil, synthetic can be a quite expensive option. Frankly, I have always used dino oil in my MB and so far, so good. When my car was new, synthetic was not among the oils recommended by MB, if it even existed then.

There is a strong feeling among many that changing the oil frequently and properly is more important than which type you use. (You will likely receive some advice from member Larry Bible, our resident guru of oil changing, before this thread is ended :)) It is my opinion that you can do whatever pleases you about oil type at this point, just get some fresh oil into that engine.

Now, I am going to duck for cover.

Aboloneman
 

You do as you wish. Don't be mislead by me or anyone. Any oil will lubricate your engine. It's the additives that make the difference.

Change it while it's at the low level instead of filling it with any brand of synthetic at ?/$/qt. Filter too.

After the change you may consider an earlier next change.

Do it from the top side. I have build material and instructions for one for less than $25.00.

Happy Trails Beep Beep from El Cheapo Houston.

Donald

In the Bunker with Ted2222 & Mr. Swinford...
 

There are more threads started this way, and they all go to "flaming folders" in minutes. ;)

I did a search on "SYN! SH+", and couldn't find anything. Change the oil, use what you want to. If you want to be educated, check out http://www.redline.com, or http://www.mobil.com for information on synthetic oil. Mercedes ships all of their new cars with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, even during break-in...

Do a search on this forum using the tool on the upper right hand corner, Search "topsider" and "oil", You will be amazed, I assure you. Personally, I have had synthetic in my car for the past 80,000 of the total 208,000 on the odometer. :)

And, Mr. Swinford, I must insist, sir, that you supply me with the information on building my own topsider post haste. As a courtesy, of course. :D

Remember that the opinions expressed on this forum are simply the opinion(s) of the individual poster(s), and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the general membership at large, previous posters on this thread, MercedesShop, Mercedes Benz, and/or Daimler Chrysler. MercedesShop is in no way affiliated with, or endorsed by Mercedes Benz, and/or Daimler Chrysler. The advice given here is strictly to be used for entertainment purposes only, and there are no warranties expressed or implied as to the quality, or factual basis of any and/or all of the information posted on this forum. And always remember kids: "MercedesShop.com, LLC takes no responsibility whatsoever for any technical assistance offered by anyone in the Shop Forum. The Risk is 100% yours.." Your mileage and other results may vary... ;) Oh, and one other caveat: The use of the Mercedes Shop Forums has been known to become habit forming... :D

Longstoe Post Haste
 

I am preparing the pictures for my El Cheapo Topsider Oil Changer and the El Cheapo Pressure One Man Brake Bleeder. Ashman presented my Pictures of Donald's Cool Ram Air and he did a marvelous job. Now if I can impose on his generiousity again, you will get the pictures and literates too. Some members have asked for pictures of my repainted '87 300E. I may show it at the same time, provided I have some digitals of Him.

I'm glad someone besides myself is aware of the Redline Synthetic oil. I've always beem reluctunt to bring up this subject because it just brings up the same old stuff again. But if I was going that way it would be my choice, Red Line.

Don't give up on me getting the pictures and literals to the forum.

Happy Trails Beep Beep from slow polk Houston.

Donald, King of the El Cheapo Line

Donald, As always, send em to me and I'll put em up.

On another note, I bought a topsider from BoatUS.com and it was only $29.99

Found them at other places, JC Whitney and WestMarine for $47.00 so I couldn't pass up on the one at boatus.com

Alon

Ashman
 

My El Cheapo Topsider Oil Change Pump isn't a Top Sider. It is a 12 volt electric pump that I've attached to a Goff 2 1/2 gallon gas container. I attached the pump through the handle with the discharge into the container's vent hole. When it becomes full, off to Wal Mart and I dump it into their bulk waste tank.

You did well buying yours. Is it a hand vacuum pump? Or is it electric? Any way you're going to be pleased.

Do ypu have the "Cap" Type Oil filter socket? If NO, I would suggest you get one for it makes removing a disposable filter so much easier.

Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston.

Donald

We're Here To Pump You Up!
 

Mr. Swinford (LONGS-TOE?), et al,

YES! I have RedLine in my Crankcase, Transmission, Fuel system (85+), and my Rear End, Uh, strike that, I meant to say, Differential... :D

The high dollar oil change rigs (marine) are electric 12v pump systems that dump into a 5 gallon plastic bucket and sell from about $120: http://www.boatus-store.com/MC_Online/Browse.asp?ShowItem=16466 to $150: http://www.boatus-store.com/MC_Online/Browse.asp?ShowItem=16475 Super efficient, super fast, and echoes an obscure reference Willy Nelson once made about "Keno Girls". ;)

The "TopSider" is a manual pump that looks like a bizarre cross-breeding of an old T-handle bicycle tire pump, and the equally old style flat circular bottom, rounded top gas cans of the '60's. The intent being to create vacuum in the tank by use of the manual pump, release the clip holding the oil drain tube closed, and consequently removes the oil as a result in the artificailly induced change in atmospheric pressure. http://www.boatus-store.com/MC_Online/Browse.asp?ShowItem=16467 But it is listed for $39.99. Alon? :confused:

Their complete line of Marine oil changers may be viewed at: http://www.boatus-store.com/MC_Online/Browse.asp?ShowItem=1708

These guys even have a pump that even Larry Bible might like because not only is it permanently mounted, it drains the oil from the oil drain plug!: http://www.boatus-store.com/MC_Online/Browse.asp?ShowItem=16464 SWEET! :)

BUT! I'm dying to see what you have created... :D

[Edited by longston on 01-29-2001 at 01:19 AM]

Synthetic vs mineral
 

Synthetic oil is about 4 times the price of mineral oil. For that price it has to be 4 times better, but is it? If you use mineral oil and change it twice as often, you're still money ahead. I'm voting for Castrol 10W40.:D

More than you ever wanted to know about oil.
 

I'm currently boilding an artcar out of two Suzuki bikes and came across the GS resource site. Someone did the research on quite a few lubricants. More than you ever wanted to know about oil.
Check out this link
http://www.gsresources.com/oil.html

Stefan Stout
80 450SEL
80 450SEL
80 280E
89 Jeep Commanche 4.0

No Mo' Dino So'...
 

Harry,

Vote when and where you choose, but please do your homework on the subject first? Your math really don't add up, cuz. Go to the websites that I suggested, and then answer this question: Isn't Mobil 1 at least "4 times better"? AND Remember that Mercedes Ships All Of It's Cars From The Factory Now With Mobil 1 In The Crankcase! :rolleyes:

What are we all going to do when there IS NO MORE "mineral" (read dinosaur squeezin's) oil? Face it, we ain't got no more dinosaurs to make that stuff from... :D

Trust me, folks, let's all face the facts, synthetic oil is both more ecological, and it is the wave of the future. ;)

P.S. Stefan, they also have "More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Additives", You're preachin' to the choir, Son.

S.Longston
 

Scott check your mail. I've used the Red Line Fuel additive since Hector was a pup. 2 oz. with every fill-up regardless of the quanity, so my concentration is a little higher than reccommended. I'm still on the original injectors and they have never required servicing in 170,700 miles. Not too shabby, huh?
I use EP90 Gear lube in my reare--,oops, differential. I add 8oz of GearMoly to 1 gallon of gear lube. I've done this for the life of my ole tub.
I'm a firm believer in Molibdimum disulfide. I add 500ml every 30,000 miles to my crankcase oil. There ain't no noises in my machine. If I ever have to change from the Dino oil, it will be to Red Line, I've read the comparison too.
Considerring where you live, how about the large Sinclair Dino on I-10, is he still thier, overlooking the wind generator farm?
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston.
Donald,not too old to change!

Earl Sinclair?
 

Donald,

If you are talkin' about those two cement reptiles (one with a gift shop inside) That are East of Los Angeles out in Cabazon, I really can only assume that they are still there. I haven't been down to visit them since about '92.

I live up North, way up North of there, North of San Francisco in fact, closer to I-80. My "appellation" is West of The Sonoma Valley, East of The Russian River Valley, and South of The Dry Creek Valley. ;)

Re: Synthetic vs mineral
 

Here's my experience with Mobil 1, various weights in gas engines:

1981 Chev. Citation 2.8l V6

Owned from 1984-1994, put 120k miles total on the car, averaging 12k/miles year. I changed the oil 10 times (with filter), because 12mo./25k miles is what Mobil recommended in the early years. Car was donated to a race project, it never had any problem involving a lubricated part.

1989 Ford Probe GT

Currently owned, owned since 1989. There are 155k miles on the car, using Mobil 1 for 145k miles. The oil has been changed (with filter), on average, every 8 months. There has never been a problem with any lubricated part, including the turbo. I take no special precautions for the turbo at shutdown.

Neither of these cars have had special care and are/were often started under below freezing conditions.

I am a synethetic oil believer. I also use synthetic in my MB. For me the price of the oil is inconsequential. I like to change my own oil, but I don't want to do it very often.
This is not an argument against using conventional oil, rather it is my successful experience with synthetic.

My guess is that the label (Syn! SH+) is very old, as the "SH+" probably refers to its rating of SH, which is out of date (currently it's SJ). The label was probably a gimmick included with the oil as a reminder to service techs "not to add any regular oil" -- as a synth. oil user myself, I'd love such a label, as I'm always reminding the service writer and techs not to add any oil when they give the car its concluding QC checkover; and instead, I just painted (in red paint) on my valve cover next to the oil fill cap, "contains synth oil -- do not add any oil".

Mobil 1 in new cars, and "break in"
 

I noted your comment about new MBs coming from the factory with Mobil 1; and I've heard that before.
I've used synthetics for over 25 years, but always after a generous break-in period, as recommended by the oil manufacturer. So it's interesting that, here, synthetic oil should be used right away -- unless there is some "break-in" version of synthetic oil that I've never before heard about.
I'm starting to have an old engine (M110) (on a used car I just bought) rebuilt (including hones cylinder walls and new pistons, cams, etc.), and now I'm wondering if I should start the new engine on synthetic oil right away, or wait per my usual practice.
Any thoughts?

hmm I havent seen anyone mention one thing.

I thought that oil was made to be mixable with various brands/types.

I'm not saying that means all types, but I would assume that there has to be a certain standard to make all engine oils mixable. Now some might mix better than others, but generally I thought that all oil was supposed to be designed to be mixable with other brands.

So are you guys saying that synthetic oil can in no way be mixed with regular oil?

Isn't there a government mandated requirement for all oils stating they have to be mixable?

I think I remember reading something about this in another posta while back.

Larry bible Where are yout o clear this up?

:)

Alon

Personally I'll use whatever oil is the best, whether synthetic or not.

I don't plan on switching to synthetic just yet though. i want to wait until the head has to come off and the timing cover before I start changing to the synthetics.

I have heard that synthetics can seep through areas that regular oil wouldn't, and leaks can be found because the gaskets have already been conditioned to regular oil.

Thats why I would rather wait until I have to replace some of those gaskets before switching over.

I figure if the head gasket, timing gasket, and oil pan gasket are changed, then switching to synthetic for me would be done. i just don't trust them old gaskets that much. :) hehe

Do Your Homework!
 

Alon,

Go to http://www.mobil.com for more information on their products. Personally, their one statement that cemented the deal for me was:

"What this all means for you.

It means there's no wax or contaminants in your oil to create sludge and cause premature wear.
It means Mobil 1® pours freely in the coldest and hottest temperatures, which gives your engine a break, as well as your battery.
It means your engine can run like new for hundreds of thousands of miles."

Now, why did you say you wanted to combine Mobil 1 with other oil?

Yes, you CAN combine synthetics and dino oils, but why would anyone want to negate the superior properties of this synthetic? And why would a bright person like you be willing to operate on hearsay urban-legends, when you can go to websites like Mobil's, and http://www.redline.com to get the facts about synthetics?

Besides, the legends would only vaugely apply to older cars with 100K+ miles on the clock...

[Edited by longston on 01-30-2001 at 11:10 PM]

hehe I didn't say I would combine it, but since it is true you can mix oils, thats all I wanted to make sure of, as it might have related to this post topic.

I agree that using only one kind of oil is key, but you can be on the road and need oil and be unable to get the mobil 1, and might have to settle for that other stuff. The mixability would have to be there, and some lubrication is better than none right?

:)

Now to find a good supplier of mobil 1 for good price.

I have changed my oil once since getting my car, have Castrol in there now, and will be doing my next oil change with castrol again. My local pepboys never has mobil 1 in any flavor, maybe like one or two bottles.

I wouldn't say castrol is the best oil, because I would rather use mobil 1 but lack of availability when I had time to go to the store caused me to settle for the castrol.

Anyone know a place for mobil 1 in Los Angeles? Would costco have it? Should I find a walmart? or someother places?

in anycase, Thanks for confirming the mixability thing, just makes me feel better knowing that IF I had to to Mix brands, and thats an IF, It would not be disasterous. hehe

Alon

Keep A Couple In The Trunk...
 

You should be able to get Mobil 1 at Pep Boys! My local one has it in all the delicious viscosities you should desire.

You can go to: http://www.pepboys.com for a listing of a store near you. You can also buy it at Kragen/Checker/Chief, Target, Walmart, Kmart, and of course, any Mobil service station.

It really isn't all that mysterious or exotic anymore. :D

As to the "break-in" question, the service manager at my local dealer says that although they used to have a 1000 mile initial "break-in" period after which they would do a valve adjustment and oil 1st change, they have no information from the factory about the new engines being specially prepared, or "broken in" at all. they come with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, and do not get their first scheduled oil change for 10,000 miles. He added that they recently got a service bulletin directing them to only use Mobil 1 on all cars that come in for service from now on...