W140 diagnostic brink codes
 

Hi,

I have a 1993 500sel with M119 engine, my car has 6 brinks on the Diagnostic Module (N59). Do you know where I can get the codes information?

Thanks in advance! :confused:

Trouble codes
 

Try Jim Forgiones pages:

http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html

Hope that it's not. . .
 

. . the start of an ETA going bad. 6 "blinks" = "Idle speed faulty". The DTCs are read from MENU #6 from the Diag Module. Read MENU#24 re the ETA.

To reset the CEL use the method in MENU#2.

Thanks for your help.

I am also thinking the ETA may be bad, but I want to check the Electronic Acceleration Module for codes. The ETA is expensive, I need to make sure it is bad. I do not have any CEL or ASR lights ON, but my exterior warning light is on???

If ETA is bad, what codes will I get ?

:confused:

The EA module is no pinic either: about $1500.

Read MENU#24 for ETA codes.. . it's all there.

DTC with code 6 and EA with code 9
 

After further testing, my car has the following codes. Can this fault cause my car to have low power and sometime erratic idle? No CEL light and No ASR light.

Here are the codes:

1. DTC with code 6.
2. EA with code 9---Left rear axle vehicle speed sensor (L6/3) from ABS/ASR
control module (N30/1)

Please help!

:confused: The #6 in the Diag Module is "Idle Speed Faulty" as it was before. So nothing has changed.

The DTC in the EA is referring you to the wheel sensors. Sounds like a good place to start??

You might want to look over Menu#9 for the EA module. It takes inputs from everything in the car except for the ash-trays! :confused:

Too many codes, what is the real problem on my car??
 

I drove my car and checked the codes immediately after my car has low power and poor idle. Needs help.
Please see attached codes on each module. Open connection problem???
Any suggestions to repair my car?

Diagnostic Module N59—No Faults in System

LH-SFI Module (N3/1)
4 Voltage at hot wire MAF sensor (B2/2) insufficient or too high, or open
circuit in ground wire at hot wire MAF sensor


[U]Distributor Ignition N1/3[/U]-No Faults in System

Base Module N16/1
10 Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F2 open circuit
11 Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F3 open circuit
12 Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F1 open circuit
13 Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F4 open circuit

ABS w/ASR Control module (N30/1)
30 CAN data line to EA/CC/ISC module (N4/1)

EA/CC/ISC Module (N4/1)
9 Left rear axle vehicle speed sensor (L6/3) from ABS/ASR control
module (N30/1)

SRS Control module (N2/2)
3 Driver airbag squib (R12/3)
4 Front passenger airbag squib (R12/8)
8 Voltage supply
9 SRS warning lamp (A1e15) or insufficient time to read out the DTC
memory or erase DTCs

Have you inspected the car's wiring harness?? If the wires are cracked, then it needs to be changed.

How is the altenator and battery?? Should be around 14+ volts with car running. Check battery for bad cell. Should be 12.5 volts w/ ingnition off after doing a battery test; cold cranking amps.

Obvious things: Base Module has four fuses; doubt that they are blown but if so then that would cause the roughness in your car. Never have seen them blown personally but . . . The base module is like the infamous "OVP" relay.

Wheel sensors next . .

The SRS codes are probably separate 'events' and those should be reset with a scanner. They may not come back. That's why I mentioned checking the altenator/battery. A low battery can cause a lot of problems.

But I still think the ETA is going (gone) bad . . .

Jim,

Checked all 4 fuses, you are correct, all checked ok.
Battery voltage is good, I need to check the wire harness.

I built the homemade DTC tester on your web site, works good.
Can Iuse it to clear the codes in EA modules and LH modes?

Thanks again! :confused:

You say the battery voltage is "good". How did you test it???

You can reset the codes with HB reader by following the instructions in MENU#2 called "Erasing DTC Memory". You need to do this for each fault.

Hi Jim,

Use a Multimeter measures the battery voltage, it read 12.37 V, started the engine, measured the battery voltage, it read 14.13 V. Can't measure the cold crank Amp, I do not have a current meter at home. I guess the voltage is close enough and the car can start right away. I do not think battery is the problem.

Trubleshooting this car continues, now it is a project for me.
I learn a lot from your web site. Thanks.

:) :)

OK, on the multimeter; 12.37V sounds ok but to be sure, you should measure it after a cold-crank test of 600 amps or so, then read the battery.

What happens with a weak battery (usually a bad cell) shows up when you start you car. The battery voltage dips so low (9 - 10V) that many times, various DTCs are set. One thing that happened to me regularly was that the windows lost their 'mind'.

Finally, I checked the battery, and after a cold crank test, the battery voltage was 12.15 volts. You may think that's ok but it's not! Replaced the battery and have NEVER had any 'strange' codes or window problems since.

I see you started another thread. Need to check your complete wiring harness. If the AMM (MAF) connection is bad, then you can take bets that the rest of the car's harness is also in bad shape, especially the ETA harness!

I checked my car, and looking for the ETA, but can't find it.
Is it below the AMM? I checked your web site and I know how the ETA look like. What kind of connector on the ETA?

My car defintely has the wiring harness problem. Do you know Mercedes has any recall on this problem? :)

The ETA is buried under the MAF. You have to remove it so that you can remove the ETA. Then it's still a little tricky to get it out.

If you look close, you may see a large diameter cable coming off the intake on the back passenger side going along the fender wall where it mates with another connector on the passenger side fender wall. The cable is 3/4" in diameter.

You can't tell until you cut the protective cover to see what condition that the wires are. Pete's web page (he has TWO ETAs in the S600!) has some good pics of the wires and connector. http://v12uberalles.com/throttle_actuator_rewire.htm

Also shows you how to fix it. . . but don't think that you can just b/c you think you can solder. But that's another story!