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  #16  
Old 08-30-2005, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallen
the bolt was hexagonal but the socket was not - that is not a good idea since there is the possibility of the socket rounding off the edges. For such bolts you need a hexagonal socket that is a 100% fit.
Commonly refered to as 12-point & 6-point.
For tough bolts/nuts you NEVER use a 12-point wrench or socket.

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  #17  
Old 08-30-2005, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manny
Commonly refered to as 12-point & 6-point.
For tough bolts/nuts you NEVER use a 12-point wrench or socket.
But, all the cheapo sockets are 12-point. Less material, lower shippping weight, etc.
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2005, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallen
I recently changed oils using the pump method through the dipstick hole. Of course I do not know hoe much more oil was left in the pan, how deep the cable went.
Really.

I can insert the hose on my kit until it hits bottom. I can feel and hear it.

I can also measure the amount of oil that is removed. I can compare that to the stated capacity.

I don't do either of the latter, however, because Mercedes DESIGNED the engine for this technique. It all comes out. I of course do this with car level, as does the Merc dealer.

Never overfilled adding the required quantity.
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2005, 11:14 PM
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thanks for all the input

The final outcome was that I already had a set of the craftsman bolt out sockets, and had to tap one on with a large shop hammer, then a long breaker bar turned it out.
I'm not sure if the plug was originally a 14 or 13 mm head,
The 13 mm 6 point socket fit on it exactly without any play
I had it seated all the way to the flange on the bottom of the head. The replacement has a 14 mm head, so maybe the original was at one time that size and was worn out, and that is wh
y it rounded it off.
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  #20  
Old 08-31-2005, 12:29 AM
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I've ran across this problem several times. The best way I've found is to use a air hammer with a chisel and hit the round side of the plug. Be very careful to just hit the plug and not the oil pan.
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  #21  
Old 08-31-2005, 12:31 PM
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103-589-02-09-00 (oil filter wrench)
Crucial for M102/M103 with spin on filters.

117-589-02-07-00 (drain plug wrench)
Essential for all MB vehicles, long handle 13mm 6-point wrench with the 14mm allen drive on the opposite end.

If you wish to avoid future drain plug issues look into a Mighty Vac evacuator system. They make one that is around $100.00 (US) and it is great for home use.

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  #22  
Old 08-31-2005, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCjames
If you wish to avoid future drain plug issues look into a Mighty Vac evacuator system. They make one that is around $100.00 (US) and it is great for home use.
Yes, that is the method preferred by people that do not wish to see what is going on UNDER their vehicle.
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  #23  
Old 08-31-2005, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manny
Yes, that is the method preferred by people that do not wish to see what is going on UNDER their vehicle.
Also by people who do not wish to get very dirty.............anymore while working on a car
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2005, 04:24 PM
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I use a hand vacuum pump and it does take time. It helps to have the oil hot so that it flows easily, bit not as hot as to melt the plastics on the tube insert...

I prefer the drain plug method anytime, if there is any debris it will come out more likely from there.
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  #25  
Old 08-31-2005, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCjames
Also by people who do not wish to get very dirty.............anymore while working on a car
Yeah.........I know.
My M-B mechanics wear WHITE Labcoats, hence the $ 90.00/hour they charge.
I still wear my " Farmers Cover-alls ".
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2005, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manny
I still wear my " Farmers Cover-alls ".
My wife quite washing mine so I switched to the "White Lab" coat..................now I tell her their black becuse of diesel oil

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