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#1
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This is one for the techs - MBDOC, Gilly. Larry
97 c230 - ongoing trans issues - however seemingly minor from time to time - since purchased in 3/04, 30k miles ago. Car has 90k. Symptoms have changed over time. Initially I had a first gear hesistation, but I think that was tied to something else (can't remember) that was fixed. Nonetheless, fluid and filter changed at 65k, new conductor plate, electronic "board" replaced TWICE for erratic shifting, shifter bushings just done as well.
I have 2 issues that I SWEAR are tied together, but even my indie says not. First, the shift lever itself, when first shifting into D after tha car has sat for a few hours, has very sloppy "lockage" into D. It will move up and down within the D slot. The other condition is, even after 2 elec. boards and conductor plate, is that sometimes the trans will star out on 3rd gear, or slam into another gear. VERY occasional, so much so that it cannot be reproduced when the dealer has the car. BUT IT IS THERE. AND, this only seems to happen when the lever has play in it. If I throw the lever in P, and shift back to D a couple times, it seats properly. Bushings were just replaced and it STILL does this. I think I have a serious trans issue and I have 7k left on my warranty. The shop foreman keeps mis-diagnosing it. What is the issue??? Again, this only sems to happen when the lever isn't seated, but Indie says the lever would have to be notched clearly into another gearslot for this to happen - he thinks failed spring in valve body or TCM - ideas?
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former: 83 300D, 97 C230, 93 400E current: 08 C300 Luxury , 92 500SL |
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#2
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Strange???
Sounds like a bad shift lever, transmission or engine mounts.
Is the shift lever arm (in console) going up/down and/or rotating???
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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#3
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trans
Hi Will You might be having a problem with the EGS trans control unit,or they did have a problem on your veh with a one way roller bearing it would hang up cause shifting problems and thumping I would have a good shop with a up to date tester go in check the wear limits,call the dealer with the trans # and see if the TB applies to your trans,when coming to a stop some times you will get a thump like some one hit you from behind.joeym PS was the valve body checked for an update when the replaced the conductor plate
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#4
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Follow "joeym"'s advice!
IF the trans has problems WHAT codes are being read from the trans computer?? The trans computer is adaptative. IT also stores info of the transmissions ability to take the POWER (torque) from the engine. THAT info can be read with a MB scanner & even printed out! HAVE someone with that type of scanner read the "shift adaptation" values from the trans computer. IF they are near OR at max amount GET the transmission replaced.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
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#5
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Thanks a ton guys, I will have this all looked into. It does indeed thump when coming to a stop, and always has. I'm taking it to my dealer's sister service dept for a fresh perpective. I also plan to pay my indie for a full going-over at about 97-98k.
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former: 83 300D, 97 C230, 93 400E current: 08 C300 Luxury , 92 500SL |
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#6
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I would think in terms of checking out the shifter to find the cause of the looseness, it's a bit of a head scratcher on why it only is like this occasionally.
If the "board" that was replaced is the transmission control unit (ETC), you also need to know that these are paired with the valve body and they have to match. Someone may have sold you/them a control unit which no longer matches your valve body, this should be investigated. Back to the shifter, yes it should be taken out. There was a part which routinely failed in this era called the "range recognition switch" and if it was replaced, on these slightly older ones it was a puzzle to tear down and replace this switch and reassemble it all properly. On the 722.6, the sifter mechanically shifted only to park, reverse, neutral, and drive. The last ranges were done electronically via the range regognition switch, all you do by pulling back past "D" is to change this switch, the shift rod is NOT moving. So sounds very much like your concern may be related, although still you should start out in first from a stop, but who knows?
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