Mercedes 123 style rear spring replacement.
 

Need a little experienced advice.

Bought a 1984 230C about six months ago. I'm a back yard mechanic so have some tools but not many specialized ones.

Got a very good deal on the car because the load leveling system was toast.

Bought some conventional springs and shocks off E-bay for $50 from a wrecked 240D.

The removal and instalation sounds simple enough if you have the right "Klann" type spring compressor.
Unfortunately there isn't one of that type to be rented/borrowed in our small town.
So I borrowed the generic hook type compressor and gave it a try.
As fate would have it, I can't get that spring out with that tool,... even after I got the spring out of the trailing arm hole on the first purchase, and then re-set the tool to compress it better on a second purchase.
I need 2-3 inches more space to get it out past the axel, and the ones that go in are 3 inches longer than the ones coming out I would guess.

I read with much laughter about some other spring instalations in the archives, and have the common sense not to overload the tool because of the dangerous amount of potential energy you are putting into it.

So my question is under these circumstances,....ie this is the best tool I've got and I'm not going to buy one at $700 which is nearly what I paid for the whole car,.. would it be best to undo the trailing arm pivots so I can let the arm drop past the stops and give me enough room to RE/RE the springs???
That would appear to be the simplest way to let the arm drop more, how ever I'm wondering if this would cause any problems with the C/V axels???
I should be able to drop the arm some more without straining the joints I would think.

Would appreciate advice from those that don't have all the MB tools but aren't afraid to tackle these projects taking it for granted that its going to take longer and might be pretty frustrating, at least the first time.
I don't give up on the first try,...but then again there's some times I should, but thats what life is all about,...gaining experience and better judgement.

Trev

dont hold me to this
 

but i think if you unhook the rear shock the a arm will drop down some more. maybe then you can get it out.

brian carlton is the expert on spring removal. his car is an s class but the rear is essentially the same, i think.

tom w

Shock has to come out to remove the spring. its one of the first steps....the FSM says not to over bend and load the cvs, i forget the amount of flex permissible upon install and removal - but it is less than you want.

my dad made up a set of compressors that we / i use to remove springs. its a hybrid claw and plate...with a removable ball lock claw...

good luck and be safe...also access to the trailing arm bolts is limited when the subframe is still tight up and in the car...might want to really look into that first.

Jake

http://www.mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1211231&posts=4

Thanks for your replys,

I do have the shock out of the spring and the compressor is an internal one that goes up the center of the spring. Its just that once I get the spring about half its unloaded length, the threated rod binds up in the hole and won't let me rotate it out of its position.

Dropping the control arm is seems to be my only option when I don't have the specialized tool. The delema there though, as you mention, there is very little room to work on the trailing arm bolts too!!!

Well I'm going to give it a couple more hours of #&*!!@# trying to figure it out with this tool. Maybe I'll have to put it back together as it was until I get a different tool.

Thanks,

Trev

Capt-T,

You might want to check out the Tool Rental Program sticky thread in the Diesel Discussion Forum. Two members, rsheely and Brian Carlton, both have the Klann-type compressors for rent for $30. You pay the shipping and ins. both ways, but it's still much cheaper than buying the tool. You might want to contact them both and see who's the closest to you to reduce shipping costs. I also have one that I will be making available when I'm done with my repairs, but if you're anywhere near the Los Angeles area we could work something out sooner. Let me know.

Gary

Gary, thanks for the link to the tool guys.

Well I've been forced to accept defeat on what I had hoped would be be an easy spring RE/RE job. (no bruised knuckles, torn finger nails or cuts either, which is some consolation I suppose)

Defeated by lack of the right tool on this one. The generic spring compressor just won't work out in the confined space as far as I can see. By the time the spring is compressed enough the amount of threaded rod protruding from the end gets in the way and there is no easy but safe way that I could find to make it work.

Trying to take apart other major components of the suspension or drive train to get the room for the less capable tool is just asking for more problems til I get to know more about these cars.

So I'll enjoy driving the car with its old saggy bottom as it is for a couple more months, and see if I can round up a tool that compresses the spring without having 6 inches of rod sticking out one end or the other and I'll eventually get her looking trim and firm again.

I see quite a few of these 123 style cars with the same tired looking backends so I don't feel alone with this condition.

Trev