OK, I've read thru hours of archives about my problem. Most of them point to the OVP relay or the Fuel Pump Relay. Problem is: Car has gotten to the point were it won't start, it gradually over the last two weeks it has gotten worse with stalling and then starting when it want's to. When it stalls it's right now, no chugging, any speed, idling, whenever. After reading all the posts I'm inclined to believe that it's the fuel pump turning off, my question is what to replace first, the fuel pump relay or the over voltage protection relay. What can I check to try and diagnose what the culprit may be? I have replaced the spark plugs and because now it is sitting in an isolated area I've had diffuculty trying to find some one to verify if the fuel pump is engaging when the key is turned on. I'm swaying away from a distributer cap/rotor problem due to the way it cuts out, meaning when it dies it dies right now. Read in several posts to check OVP/Fuel pump relay for bad connections, they all look good if I'm looking at the right parts. Car has had a tune up within the last 20,000 kms, ignition wires, rotor, plugs. When I return to the car to try and start it now it atomatically trys to start the first time but dies and not a sign of wanting to do anything after that... HELP!!!

if it could be a plugged fuel inlet in the tank? and the pump is overheating and kicking a reset? pure theory as i dont know if there is a reset on the fuel pump.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

you can remove the fuel pump relay and jump two connections with a piece of wire to check if your pump is working ok. can't remember which two connections you need to jump, other than they are roughly in the middle of each row, but you should find the numbers if you do a search.

you can drive around with the jumped connections but you should remove the wire when you leave the car, otherwise the pump stays activated and will most likely burn out.

that should help you figure out whether you have a problem with fuel delivery (fuel pump and relay) or fuel control (OVP, idle control valve)

once you know that, you can refine your search for a solution.

soemthing else that can give you some pointers is the behaviour of the car after stalling. if it starts right up, i'd look at fuel control. if you have to wait for a while before it will start again, i'd look first at fuel delivery.

good luck

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1987 300e manual 250,000 km (sold)

I'm going to first put a new rotor and distributer cap on tonight and see what that does. The car before was periodically missing on cylinder #3, so it can't hurt. Hope fully I can find someone to turn the key while I listen for the fuel pump engaging...

Fuel pump is not engaging when key is turned on, if some one knows how to jumper the fuel relay can you tell me. I'll continue to seach achives.

remove the relay and jumper sockets 30 and 87 to provide power to the fuel pump. the numbers are next to the pins on the relay.

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1987 300e manual 250,000 km (sold)

Thanks, I'll try it.

Thank you all, jumpered the 30 and 87 pin and the fuel pump engaged right away and the car started on the spot. Removed the said relay and took apart, found one soilder on the board that had cracks around it, resoildered and replaced all OK now.