Let's see.... 5 months later, still haven't replaced pass side fan, and now the driver side is acting up( doesn't start up all the time, if you spin it then it starts working)... I bought a second fan, so will finally be replacing BOTH fans... I am glad I don't have to do the job twice, LOL...

The part I am confused is... removing the radiator... you have to physically remove it, or just loosen it up and move it back? Do I have to remove the fan shroud (between radiator and engine)? The two electric fans are right there, seem so simple to remove, but reading through the archives, I even read some have removed the front bumper!?!

So my question.... remove radiator out of engine compartment or dont have to remove it? Will the electric fan shroud need new fasteners? Or can they be saved?

Thanks...

The radiator does not have to be removed, period. There are clips holding the rad to the frame on top. Remove them and tilt the rad back. This may be a 30 minute job to someone who has just done it or done it for a living, but for us amateur wrenches it takes a bit more than that.

The somewhat tricky thing is the top bolt for that thick rod bracket (I am trying to remember all this as I did the job months ago and I'm not where I can see my car at the moment) which holds the horns etc. That top mounting is hidden and I think you have to tilt the rad to get at it. The plastic fan shroud is pretty fiddly (you gotta bend it around) to get out, but once you get it out you can then remove the fans (fan and fan motor are the same thing) by unbolting them from the OO shaped fan holding frame. You don't have to take out the OO fan frame to get the fans out.

You can do it, just take your time and don't break anything. And don't take the rad out, and don't remove the bumper.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D

Thanks for the details. I know the clips you are talking about, so it shouldn't be too bad. I am going to install them the following weekend, as I am not receiving the second fan until next wk and don't want to go through the whole process twice, but you are right, it definitely sounds doable.

W124 fans go on at once or one first then then next?
 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=136044&highlight=cooling+fan

Following up on that email.......

R the w124 fans supposed to go on simoltanously? or does one go on at one temp and the other later on?

:rolleyes: Maybe that's why it was difficult for me to do this wknd, I didn't remove the OP shaped fan holding frame. I removed the fans directly from their mounting.. PIA to get to those little side bolts on the fans :(

these cars have two electric fans to cool down when AC is ON, AND when there is a problem in the main engine cooling system (the main engine fan with fan clutch and the shroud around the radiator). The elect. fans will be overworked to compensate for the failure of the main cooling fan to protect the engine. The fan clutch is a nice device to regulate between cooling and saving engine power when cooling is not needed. The coupling mechanism (through the silicon oil) deteriorates through time by leaking the oil etc. until it is not good enough to provide cooling and in this case AC will not be cold and the contineous high pressure (due to heat) of refrigirant might affect the AC system.
You need to check the fan clutch to save your new elect. fans from being overworked.
good luck
kamal

Has this car ever had (or still does) green coolant?

Could also be a clogged radiator. To check, get it warm (OK fast food place). Pull over, stop engine and reach quickly in through the fan and see if you have any cool regions in the radiator. If so, you can try using a flush or get a new radiator.

This happened with the 91 300e. I did the above. I replace the radiator. Car's temp is now proper, fast food or no fast food.

BTW, I fixed it horrible running problems by replacing the coil. Who would have figured?

Keep us posted.

Haasman

Both fans run at the same time, whether on low speed or high speed.

That's what I figured :confused: , since when I tested them, they both did go on at the same time.... guess I have to go through some dissasembly so I can make sure the plug on the driver side fan didn't come loose as I was fitting back the PITA fan cover.... as long as I dont' have to remove / replace either of the fans, I'll be OK :)

Ok I know this thread is 3 years old, but no point in retelling my story since it's almost identical... lol...

So here it is: W124, 1993 300CE (pre-facelift)

- Replaced thermostat
- Replaced fan clutch
- Cooling fans occasionally turn on 66% of the time both turn on when engine reaches around 105 deg. If they don't turn on I can just give them a quick tap and they will turn on.
- In stop and go, or idling traffic, engine will quickly rise to between 100 - 110 deg
- Cruising, engine will hover around 90 - 95 deg

So at this point, does a water pump or radiator replacement make sense? Is there something simpler? Thanks

< In stop and go, or idling traffic, engine will quickly rise to between 100 - 110 deg
- Cruising, engine will hover around 90 - 95 deg

>

With or without A/c ON ???????

without a/c on...

OK

Try this test,
On the a/c drier there is a pressure sw with a 2 wire pigtail. Slide the sleeves back on the connectors and jumper wire those two wires
That should give you low fans.
If YES, then try the car in traffic and idle and see where the temp gauge registers.
Regardless , you still want those both fans to be fixed.............

thanks - ok sounds easy enough so if having those fans on permanently on low seems to keep the temp low then what would be the actual long-term fix?

< then what would be the actual long-term fix?
>

No...it is a TEST to see if airflow is a problem...but many guys do jumper those connection and bring that wire into the cabin with a toggle switch so they have manual control over the fans when they want to over-ride the system [ like towing or havy traffic]