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124 installing remote locking
I want to install remote locking (keyless entry I think you guys call it) on my E300D.
The remote locking relay I have has 12v power/ground, plus the 2 lock/unlock wires. Electronics is not my best subject, but I've got at the vacuum pump and found it has 2 wire connectors attached- flat with power supply wires and round with 6 wires. I presume I connect my 12v power to one of the red wires in the flat connector, and then the 2 lock/unlock wires to 2 of the wires in the round connector? cheers.
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1993 320TE M104 --------------------------------------------------- past: 1983 230E W123 M102 1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2) 1967 250SE W108 M129 1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116 1980 280SE W116 M110 1980 350SE W116 M116 1992 300E W124 M103 1994 E280 W124 M104 ---------------------------------------------- "music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys |
#2
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Bump
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1993 320TE M104 --------------------------------------------------- past: 1983 230E W123 M102 1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2) 1967 250SE W108 M129 1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116 1980 280SE W116 M110 1980 350SE W116 M116 1992 300E W124 M103 1994 E280 W124 M104 ---------------------------------------------- "music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys |
#3
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At the top of this page, click on the D.I.Y. (Do It Yourself) tab.
Half way thought the "Chassis" sub-heading is a fantastic article on installing keyless entry on a 124. Jeff Pierce
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#4
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I did see that one, but it didn't quite answer all my questions...
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1993 320TE M104 --------------------------------------------------- past: 1983 230E W123 M102 1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2) 1967 250SE W108 M129 1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116 1980 280SE W116 M110 1980 350SE W116 M116 1992 300E W124 M103 1994 E280 W124 M104 ---------------------------------------------- "music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys |
#5
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Like what?
jp
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#6
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I used the el-cheapo unit from J.C. Whitney, about $30 on sale. The diy instructions from this site included relay wiring as the lock/unlock pulses from the remote were not compatable with the air pump (believe the polarity was different from what the remote unit put out). Also had to increase the length of the units output pulse. Also (again) had to run a wire from the unit to the factory alarm for the disarm function (it would arm by itself but not disarm). The unit and all wiring (except the disarm wire) was contained under the seat next to the vacuum pump (didn't use the light flash function). This worked for an 87 300E and an 86 190D.
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Hanno '79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years) '83 280SL, 5 spd. '94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion '02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!) '87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold '05 E500 Wagon |
#7
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nice JC whitney is pretty cool.
Does the install need special tools? |
#8
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Just time and patience to work through the issues (alarm disarm). Normal stereo tools should be about all.
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Hanno '79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years) '83 280SL, 5 spd. '94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion '02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!) '87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold '05 E500 Wagon |
#9
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I'm not 100% familiar with the 124 system, so forgive me if this is off base, but a technique people use on finicky systems like the 123 is to install a single door lock actuator in the driver door that operates the lock, and connect that actuator to the keyless entry system.
The actuators are called 'door lock motors' or 'door lock solenoids', and are basically an electrical device with two input wires, and a rod that it moves up and down. You install this inside the door, with the rod connected to the lock throw device. The nice thing about this system is that you don't tie into the car electronics at all, it basically simulates having a human inside the car pull up the lock knob and unlock the car, or using a key to unlock the car from the outside. If you want your keyless entry to do EXACTLY the same thing as unlocking with a key, then the actuator might solve your problem. I bought one on ebay (user "mandsenterprises" I think) for 4$. Local alarm install places should have them too, from between 4 to 8 dollars. Anyway, hope that helps. Its a technique that is required on the 123, and might be helpful on other models too. peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#10
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Sam, thanks. I will be in need of this information for future install on a R107 with vacuum tank only. On a 124 chassis (at least the 1987 models), its not necessary to get into the door. All (except alarm disarm) wiring is done right at the vacuum pump under the rear seat.
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Hanno '79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years) '83 280SL, 5 spd. '94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion '02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!) '87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold '05 E500 Wagon |
#11
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how much harder is it to get your lights to blink?
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