keyless entry system 1st gen - w126
 

hey everyone

i have decided to invest in a keyless entry system. I bought the Valet 712t from Circuit City for $60.

I am having a little trouble install it. I have it wired up to the vacuum pump in the spare tire well. There are three wires on the plug for the pump...ground...
yellow-12v (when unlocked)...
blue-12v (when locked)

I have 6 lock/unlock wires

Violet - unlock #87 normally open (input)
Blue/black - unlock #30 common output
brown/black - unlock #87a - normally closed
violet/black - lock #87 normally open (input)
white/black - lock #87 normally closed
green/black - lock #30 common output

I have it wired like this:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...die/wiring.jpg

Now, when i press the unlock button..the pump will cycle..unlock the already locked locks but then keep running and re-lock them

when i press the lock button nothing happends.

can Anyone help?

Thanks

Kris

Since there is NO vacuum actuator in the driver's door on 1rst gen. 126 chassis; only a key/int. knob actuated switch (to vacuum pump in trunk); you must use an electric actuator in the driver's door. This electric actuator will be activated by the keyless system and in turn activate the pump and in turn the pump activates the vacuum locks in the other doors and trunk.

No wiring to pump in the trunk needed (or wanted) in 1rst gen 126.

I agree, I have a keyless system in my W123. The keyless system operates an electric actuator that was added the drivers door. The rest of the doors just follow the drivers door using the existing vacuum system.

i came to this realization and decided to toss the whole project in the trash..as i dont have the $ for an actuator or know where/how much they cost etc etc..thanks for ur help thou guys..much appreciated

They only cost about $8.

where can i get these at...anywhere locally..if someone can help me wire it and the system...it might not be a loss after all...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-010&raid=55&rak=330-010


Most automotive audio/alarm shops will have 'em locally.


The MOST valuable resource for you is a subsciption to: http://pindelski.com/

He has acomplete pictorial on how to do EXACTLY what you're trying; as well as a bunch of other stuff.

No vested interest in his site. etc. etc. yada yada yada. ;) ;)

wiring
 

I just did this today on a W116 300SD. It has no door switches. I discarded the vacuum system entirely and just mounted actuators in the door. If I remember correctly (I've had a nap since then) the violet, violet black and red from the electronic box connected to wire from the fuse block I installed under the hood, the white black and brown black went to ground, green black and blue black went to actuators. I think that's it, but if you want me to make sure send me an email. The kit was about $60 and included every hardware imaginable, 4 actuators, 2 keyless push button thingys, and capable of dome light, starter disable, etc.
Rev Dr. G., Church of the Sub-Genius

i highly doubt Circuit City will take it back..seeing as the wires are stripped and i kinda wrote notes in the manual..only 4...but seeing as the soultion for the driver's side is only $4...why not .... i just subscribed to that website..its seemed very comprehensive...i will need help with futher wiring... might be takin u up on that offer gdemoss...

thanks

kris

im lost in wiring up this puppy. I cannot seem to cut the power on the one line so the other can run...its all too complicated ! ! ! :mad: :mad: :mad: :

i challenge anyone who knows what to do to help :sword2: :sword2: :sword2:

Wiring
 

The first question is do you have the actuators to forget the whole vacuum nightmare? If not, you need those first. You've got this much into it what's another 10 bucks?

Mount the actuators to open/close lock. Each actuator will have two wires. One wire is hooked to the grn/blk wire the other to the blu/blk wires coming from your module. The rest of it is in the post I made earlier.

Rev. Dr. G. Church of the Sub-Genius

so your saying convert the entire system of the electrical actuators? the only problem i forsee is installation of actuators...i have seen the tutorial at the one website but i am a little worried about their placement and the installation of the door planel...wont they interfere?

and what of the trunk and gas tank locks?

I like your thinking thou...

Kris

I don't see any reason to convert all the doors, the trunk, and the fuel door to electric actuators if the vacuum system is working. On my W123, there was only one actuator added to lock/unlock the drivers door and the rest of the doors follow as they are designed to. The system also works, as designed using the key in the driver's door. Does your vacuum lock system currently work?

yes it works fine. i am trying to get this keyless entry system to work with it...its quite simple what i need...but i cant figure out how to make it work...


just want to :rifle: the damned box

how did u wire up the vacuum pump to work with your keyless?

wait i just read up above...so u added an actuator to the driver's side door..and wired the gizmo to that thing.......any details on the wire configuration?

I don't know all the details of the W126 system or the system you bought, but the basic idea is simple. When you lock/unlock your drivers door, the rest of the doors follow. There's no reason to change that if it works. What you need to do is install the electric actuator that will make the drivers door lock/unlock just like using the key or pushing the lock plunger. The actuator is usually a couple of inches long and about 1/2 inch in diameter. The bottom end has some screw holes so it can be attached to the inner door frame (you may have to drill a hole or two). The upper end has a small rod that you need to attach to the door lock rod with a small clamp. The result of the actuator is the same as pushing or pulling the door lock plunger in the car. The actuator is wired to the keyless system such that it pushes/pulls in the correct direction.

I don't know if you need to do any additional wiring to operate the vacuum pump in the trunk. If you sit in the car with the engine off (key removed) and manually lock the drivers door by pushing the plunger down, do the rest of the doors automatically lock? Do they automatically unlock if you wait a while and manually unlock the drivers door? If that works, I would say that you can leave the vacuum pump alone and just worry about making the drivers door lock work. Clear as mud?

The W123 is simpler, it does not have an electric vacuum pump, just a vacuum storage tank so I don't have to deal with that. The actuator only has two wires. There should be two wires from the keyless system that connect to the actuator, just a matter of getting them correct so closed is closed and open is open.

The part that I don't know is whether you need to mess with the vacuum pump, or if the existing system will take care of that for you. That's why I asked if the system works when you manually lock/unlock the doors from the inside.

I remember I had a hell of a time installing it. Easiest way to do it is in the trunk, at the trunk lock. I have the same exact unit, and it works beautifully. Once I get a chance, I'll take a look at it and tell you exactly what color wires are attached to what. It was a giant brain leap for me while trying to figure it out. You have to connect several of the wires on the Valet unit to each other.

would this actuator work

http://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/742.html

I can get it for $8 at Pep Boys.

craig could u enlighten me on how you installed the actuator (where on the door) so that one could get the panel back on? As I remebmer the door panel has a flat back.


Kris

thanks dan--that will help a lot

It will NOT work in the trunk lock of a 1982 300SD as there is no electric switch there. Later models had it, but you only have the switch in the driver's door in 1982. BTDT.

Pindelski has a step by step for your exact situation with ~52 pictures.

my vacuum locks work from the driver's side...they work as they should according to spec. I understand the idea behind the actuator and the door lock..I get that its pretty simple (even nifty too) The only thing that I am worried about now is will there be enough room for the door panel to go back on. I dont exactly remember what the back of the panel looks like but we'll see. I hope PepBoys has that thing in stock. I should be able to wire it--I found some diagrams from another system with the same wires and everything. We'll see

Thanks

Kris

from that tutorial it looks like the actuator is mounted inside the door frame...hope it fits with the glass and all....we'll see

first step is benchtest the device with the security system - out side the car

if it works take out the door panel and have at it

ill have to figure out how to wire in the horn and lights and what not..if i want to.

tHanks guys.

Kris

Yes,
The actuator mounts vertically inside the door frame, directly below the interior door lock plunger. The rod runs straight up to the rod associated with the door plunger and clamps to it. The Pep Boys unit looks similar to mine. Mine is located about half way up the door frame, just inside the "lip" with a screw or two. Just make sure you find a spot that doesn't interfere with the window or anything else. I didn't have any trouble finding a spot for mine.

ok im at a loss now

i have the actuator
i have 2 5-pin relays also

i tried the diagram on the back of the box (actuator)

no luck

this valet 712t confuses me

"negative lock trigger from alarm"

6 wires

Violet - unlock #87 normally open (input)
Blue/black - unlock #30 common output
brown/black - unlock #87a - normally closed
violet/black - lock #87 normally open (input)
white/black - lock #87 normally closed
green/black - lock #30 common output

i have discovered that the green/black and blue/black wires have 12v flowing throu them when locked/unlocked

yesssssssssssssssss :dj: YEAH !

now do i need to wire those up to a relay? or can i go direct into the actuator?

well-i tried going direct to the actuator..that didnt work...if it should have then the actuator is defective!


KRis

You should be able to test the actuator by putting 12V (from your battery) across it and watch it move. I don't know if your keyless system needs a relay, sounds like the instructions aren't very clear.

i found a green wire that output 12v when the unlock is pressed and a blue when lock is pressed....12v...i would think that should activate the actuator...but it doesnt..on the back of the actuator box..there is a diagram of relays..which i have those 2..the instructions on this thing isnt clear at all...very useless in fact.. danwatt has the same system...

vacuum system
 

In a word, not really. Oh, that's 2 words.

Most of the vacuum system does not work. It works to run the climate control fan and other engine components and that's about it. Too many problems, leaks, etc. after 25 years of plastic tubing becoming brittle etc. Also much of it had been disconnected prior to my purchase of the car. It was therefore easier to switch to electric systems wherever possible. Not stock for sure, but it works and works dependably. For purists this is anathema, I know.

Rev. Dr. G.

It probably doesn't work because you don't have the system grounded properly.

Look at an earlier post I did to indicate the proper grounding wires.

Rev. Dr. G.

OK, I was suggesting to JamesDean that there is no reason to convert his entire vacuum system to electric if it's currently working OK. Based on his post, he is simply trying to add a keyless system to the existing vacuum system. The easiest way to do that is to add an electric actuator to the drivers door only, and let the rest of the system continue to work as designed.

BTW, the vacuum systems in both my 123s work perfectly. The 126s are a little more complicated, but 123s are fairly simple to troubleshoot/repair IMHO. If the PO has already hacked up your system, it may make more sense for you to convert it to electric.

Well gentlemen, I do say, i think ive got it. Actuator is now fuctioning..Your wire colors were correct also. I just have to mount the actuator in the door run the wires...i might hook up the horn and the flashing light thing..perhaps even the domelight bit..im not sure...any suggesttions ? would it be too difficult (at this point i dont know what could be any harder) I have 3 - 4pin relays and 2 - 5pin w/ wires....


Good Work Mates

Kris

Hey

I installed the actuator today, ran the wire and got the locking system working...I was thinking about hookin up the horn also. I was also thinking as an "aux" feature i could wire up my city lights (since I dont have then wired into the harness) to the AUX feature...for like finding my car at night or something I dont know...just sounded cool...I dont quite know how to go about that yet but i will figure it out.. I am not sure what was the hardest part of this project..wiring..mounting actuator..laying wires to driver's underside...or maybe it was crimping that power wire into the butt-connector...i couldnt do it...I must have used 6 connectors before i got it soild. Its about 45-50F outsideI am working in my socks (from 4 till 9) in my friend's driveway who just happends to be detailing a car...gettting the ground all nice and wet....mmmm my feet are still cold.

anywy thanks for all the help..i want to pursue those two item above if anyone has any ideas on how just drop em down...

thanks

kris

well.. check this project off...done.. system works perfectly..i am in the process of wiring up my unused city lights as flasher when the car locks/unlocks...i just need a inline fuse and im done. I decided not to hook up the horn as it is unpowered when the car is off anyway.

I also cleaned up my engine..removed the unused vacuum lines going to the valve cover. Removed all that plastic.

Next Project...tail light mod and air cleaner bracket. Hit Man X is shipping me up em parts..I think i am going to find a way to strengthen the air cleaner bracket..re inforce it somehow..ive heard those things go often.

Also in the pipeline are: K1 Spring Kit, Passenger Seat Flex Cable (as soon a i get em from FastLane) after those..new rear speakers for the back deck..im thinking of going with Polk DB650s..I have DB460s in the front dash..should sound pretty well.

I also have to get my replacement trim panels painted before winter hits. I want to get these rust ridden ones removed asap.

well, thanks guys for everything. need anything message me

Kris

Good job!:)