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#1
12-14-2005, 07:14 PM
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Please help I am stuck, and so is my car.
Please help I am stuck, and so is my car.
I can’t get my 95 E- 320 to start. Yesterday morning all was fine it started first thing in the morning drop my daughters at school, with no problems came back to the house and park the car in the garage. Around noon time I got ready to go have lunch with my wife I got in the car turn the key on and nothing, zero, just a grinding noise coming from either under the instrument panel or the fuses area. I went ahead and did a search in this forum and I read many threads that describe similar problems which I’m having. I checked the battery took it to a garage, they charged, did a load test, everything pass with flying colors, so I rule out the battery. I then checked every fuse and relays in the fuse panel that I could find and the fuses are all good, not sure about the relays. I then proceeded to check the starter by following the jumper wire procedure that many here in the forum have describe (Dalton, and others) by connecting one end of the wire to the + end of the battery, and by touching the center probe from the connector that attaches to the fire wall behind the brake master cylinder and I got nothing the started did not move, the car did not start. I have to say that I am not sure if I was doing right but as far I can’t tell there is no response from the starter either. I then decide to jump start the car to see if that would get the car to crank but it was the same result, the car did not start. All the lights and all the accessories in the car are working when the key is in the on position, so that rules out the battery I believe. I need help because I do not want to see my car tow to the Mercedes garage I rather find the problem and try to fix it myself. I am stuck, and so is my car. 
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Bluerio 
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#2
12-14-2005, 09:21 PM
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I got it the test to see if the NSS is the problem
Relief,
 I was able to read again the procedure to test to see if the NSS is at fault as per Mr. Dalton suggestions and this time I got it right. The connector at booster is immediately to the left of the cap of the brake reservoir. I just unplug it and probe it with the hot wire from the Positive terminal of the battery, and bingo the engine crank. It was a big relief since a new starter is pricey. I made a crude picture of the connector that hopefully can help and save some precious time to another member of the forum. Now I still need to find out why I can get the car to run, where is the problem ? A dumb question, can I start the car by the above procedure so that I can drive it and if I need too take to the MB shop? Or is the above test just to see if the starter cranks? Oscar
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Bluerio
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#3
12-14-2005, 10:24 PM
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Lock the car with the key to arm the Alarm system . Then unlock it and retry to start. You may have poor contacts in the K38 relay.
Also, try N instead of P ...
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#4
12-15-2005, 05:54 PM
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Thanks Arthur,
Yes I have tried everything unlocking, locking, from all the doors including the trunk compartment, setting the alarm, but nothing so far seems to work the car would not start. It keeps on making a chirping noise that seems to be coming from right behind the clock in the instrument cluster so I am with you in thinking that the culprit may be the K38 Starter Lock-Out Relay Module, since according to the CD manual that is the place they describe for the K38 to be located. Does that sound right to you? I had read on another thread that the K 38 relay was behind the radio in the model 124, which one is it, do you know? I just want to make sure I know where the relay is before I start taking things apart. This problem is exhausting me two weeks ago I replaced the water pump, and serpentine belt, and that was a bear of a job, I was hoping not to have any more repairs. Oscar
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Bluerio Last edited by blueriomedina; 12-15-2005 at 06:03 PM.
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#5
12-15-2005, 06:26 PM
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If the k38 is the open link in the starter lockout circuit, it is usually the relay contacts are poor. But, if the relay is clicking , the suspect is fuse 5 or 6 . They may look good to the eye, but give them a spin in their holder and retry.
This is k38 coil 12v. feed . Relay K38 is behind Inst. cluster on 124.032.
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#6
12-15-2005, 10:40 PM
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Yes! the car is running again!
   Arthur, You were right on the money. I change fuse 5, 6, and the car started immediately. The culprit was fuse #5 it had a very small fracture on the wire I had to get a magnifying glass (my glasses) just to see it, unbelievable. I had checked those fuses last night and to me they all had appeared to be OK but obviously they were not. I went ahead and replace all the fuses that look suspicious and hopefully that will avoid any future problems. The moral of the story is to check those obvious things carefully it may avoid suffering down the road. Arthur, I have to say that you are a patient, and very wise men. Thank you for your help this place should be proud to have you as a member of this forum. Oscar Gonzalez San Antonio, Texas
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Bluerio
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#7
12-16-2005, 01:52 AM
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Very good......
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