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-   -   CV boot has a tare (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=140123)

JBR 12-16-2005 07:53 AM

CV boot has a tare
 
I just noticed the other day on the 73 450sl, that the back left outer rubber cv boot has a rip in it. Some pro. tried to repair it with silicone. I would like to fix it better. Has anyone got a better idea for repairing this. I realize it is going to be replaced some day. But what is a good fix for now?

pcmaher 12-16-2005 08:36 AM

This needs to be fixed fast. The longer dirt and grit are allowed to migrate and stay in there, the more wear and tear the parts will be subjected to. I know I've seen the split-type boot for other cars. These boots make it much easier to replace the torn originals. You do not have to remove the axle. Before you replace the boot though, make sure you clean out the joint EXTREMELY well. You have to get all the dirt out, or you will be replacing that joint in the near future.

oliverb 12-16-2005 08:58 AM

In addition to thorough cleaning, you must re-lube the joint before installing the new boot.

pcmaher 12-16-2005 12:20 PM

Lube! Absolutely! And the proper one. I took that for granted...thanks for making sure this was understood.

g.brew 12-16-2005 12:33 PM

i've had trouble locating bolt-on boots. everyone seems to think we've all got access to hydrolic presses and the time to remove and install half shafts. well I dont!

let me know if you find any!

good luck

Greg

Matt L 12-16-2005 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g.brew
i've had trouble locating bolt-on boots. everyone seems to think we've all got access to hydrolic presses and the time to remove and install half shafts. well I dont!

let me know if you find any!

good luck

Greg

They're probably just afraid that you will be unhappy with the completed job, especially after it runs a while. I'd get the real boot and dismantle the shaft. You can't clean it without taking it apart anyway. And you can't properly lubricate it while assembled either. If you disbelieve me, try to clean one while assembled. Then take it apart and see all the gunk that was missed, and all the solvent left within. I've done this with joints that were off the car, using a parts washer and compressed air. I can't imagine getting it clean without even removing it, much less dismantling it.

I would note though, that when you dismantle the joint, you should put it together in the same way that you found it. Don't reverse the inner hub or the locator ring, and try to put the balls back where they were.


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