I got my windows tinted the other day and when I got my car back the drivers door controls worked for a couple seconds but the window was automatically rolling itself down and then I heard a clicking noise coming from the door at which point the drivers window rolled back up and the whole door controls died on me. Checked ALL fuses and they seem to be good. So where do I go now?

Could it be the door control module has died?? The whole LEFT door controls don't work.. That means the drivers door and the back passengers door.

However, the right door controls all work..

somebody on one of the forums mentioned that the module may have gotten wet from the tint procedure, i tend to agree, it is likely the drivers door module, which will cause lots of things on the drivers side not to work, you should take the car some where and get it scanned using the mercedes factory software, either dealer or qualified independent shop

I had a Mercedes shop scan it and he couldn't tell me anything other then the door is getting no power. He thought it was a fuse at first but then he checked the all the fuses and they all seemed to be good.

did they use a factory tool as i suggested or an aftermarket unit? if they do use the factory tool will attempt to communicate with the module to see if it has any codes stored. if it cannot communicate with it either the power is down or the module is defective, if all fuses are good, then the module is likely defective

I'm going to take the door panel off, how would I go about testing the "control module"? I'm an electrician so I can use an Ohm meter, voltage meter, etc.. I have the WIS service manual on hand also so I'm sure the door panel probably won't be too much trouble.

you do not need to remove the panel to acess the module, only remove the area around the switch,the switch is the module. wis will show you, if you cannot find it let me know i can send you a document number. look at the wiring schematic in wis for the door module, find all the circuits labeled 15 and 30.
30 is power always, 15 is power when key is on. if they all have power during the correct times, then the module is definately at fault

I understood everything you just told me.. I'll try it tomorrow afternoon and let you know how it goes.

I took apart the door panel that accesses the drivers door control module..
When having the car shut off I unplugged the power wires coming into the unit and found 12V. So shouldn't this mean that the seats should at least work correct? Just like the passengers side..

However, when testing power when the car is on I still got the 12V from the main power coming in but when I put the voltage meter on a greenish set of wires located on the same harness (in the middle) I got 3V sparatically.. I don't know what significance these wires play but I thought I'd mention it.

So does it look like a new control module is in order or what? These are $500 at the dealership but I'm going to try to find one at a wrecking yard.. Are they all interchangable?? 00, 01, 02, 03..etc..?

what is the part number on yours? there is version coding that may need to be changed.

It's funny that this entire thread (until now) is between two members, Johnny and carson!!! This is a comedy show!!! Hey Johnny, go back to the "window tint guy" and tell him he screwed up!!! It couldn't be any simpler.

And I'm not totally sure it's their fault. The drivers window would always malfunction by not going automatically up. Everything else worked fine though. I did the reset thing with no avail. on the rolling up.
The window did roll down once before everything took a dump on me.
Would you say it's the module or no?

strongly recommends not top have window tinting down on any Mercedes vehicle, I asked around, dealers mechanics, etc. The only answer that made sense after reading your post, is what a dealer told me, electrical problems have occurred with aftermarket window tints, and they are not covered by warranty?

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Al Lueb
1999 C280 54K miles
1979 450 SLC 144K miles

MB doesn't recommend tinting the REAR window. This is because the AM, FM, and central locking antennae are all in the rear glass. I've seen 220's with tinted rear glass that lose all AM reception and limit the range in which central locking will work. Tinting the side windows doesn't affect the electrical operation of anything, unless the installer overdoes it with the soapy water (typically used to aid in the installation of tint), and damages the DCM. So Johnny, don't go tearing the tint off. The presence of tinting isn't your problem. It was either a sloppy installation OR a remarkable coincidence. Either way, why don't you just have it checked out??? Find a shop equipped with SDS. I'll bet they can't even communicate with the DCM. That's the only way to be certain that the DCM is at fault.

He told me the scanner couldn't communicate with the door module and he thought it was a blown fuse. He checked all the fuses and they were all good.

He did all this for free so he didn't try taking the door panel off like I did.
when I opened the panel up, I didn't see any signs of water, soap.. But like I said, the window on that side was always acting funny. So maybe it was ready to go?

He probably has a Snap on scanner which is geared toward Detroit Iron. You need to find a facility that has a Baum scanner or better yet a factory scanner like an HHT. You will need to plan on spending money on that fine ride on things other than wheels, tinting, and sound. I'm picking up the vibes that you are trying to drive a top line MB on a Toyota budget. My first clue is the fact you got the tint done at the cheapest place in town that probably doesn't have the money in the business account to correct the problem. Had you gone to a reputable glass company, they would have worked with you on it. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

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Auto Zentral Ltd.