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  #1  
Old 01-05-2006, 10:48 PM
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Its amazing what you learn when you read the owners manuals! :D- questions answered

I had some problems/questions a while back, some without response, perhaps because they were just plain silly? Remember, I did not have a manual at the time.

As mentioned, @ the time, I did not have an owners manual, but I bought one from one of out members here a couple of weeks ago and today I took the time to read it over and learn more about my 1985 380SE.

I had mentioned something before about thinking these cars are supposed to start out in 2nd gear. Mine was starting out in 1st and I was thinking something was wrong. Well, according to the manual, all is normal, because the 380SE is supposed to start out in 1st, whereas the 500SEL and 500SEC for 1985 are supposed to start out in 2nd. I have no idea why however. I am assuming it is where the 500SEL/SEC is more powerful and 1st is really not needed?

I also learned how to set the clock on the original Becker radio. It was not correct and I am assuming that the PO did not know how to set it, considering that he had no manual either.

It also dawned on me why my "brake" warning lamp is illuminated. When the PO bought the car, he said that the light was always on, but went out when you pulled up on the E-Brake pedal - which it does, but when you let it go, the light illuminates again. Yesterday, I removed the rear tires to discover that the rear pads are virtually worn down to nothing. I did not have the rear pads, as I thought it was the fronts that were worn, so I put the tire back on. It dawned on me today that I bet it is where the pads are so worn, that it is allowing the e-brake pedal to move down too far, thus illuminating the brake warning. My "anti-lock" also activates when I first go down our driveway, then the "anti-lock" lamp stays illuminated, so I am hoping that new pads will fix this too.

I still have a lot of reading in those manuals to do. I have learned alot about recommended oil grades, capacities, etc.

I should have read it a long time ago.


Last edited by 86560SEL; 01-07-2006 at 01:13 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2006, 11:06 PM
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Yeah, they have lots of useful little tidbits in them.

Someone may have swapped the switch positions around (who knows why they would want to do that - but they may have) there should be enough cable to move them back to factory position if you take out the center console wood. A job for a day when you don't have much to do.

Did you know that when you swing the sun visors to the side, they extend by pulling them along the arm so you get better side window coverage??? Nifty little trick - it's in the manual!!! The other one often missed is the little sun visor behind the rear view mirror.

Cheers
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2006, 11:24 PM
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Yeah, that is what I was thinking at first when I read the manual, but it looks like my instrument panel has never been tampered with. That was not good enough for me because I wanted to know for sure, so I just went on e-bay and looked at several other 1981-1985 S-Class sedans and mine are just as they should be. Its the owners manual that is incorrect. Thats weird.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 420 SE
Someone may have swapped the switch positions around (who knows why they would want to do that - but they may have) there should be enough cable to move them back to factory position if you take out the center console wood.
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2006, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
It also dawned on me why my "brake" warning lamp is illuminated. When the PO bought the car, he said that the light was always on, but went out when you pulled up on the E-Brake pedal - which it does, but when you let it go, the light illuminates again. Yesterday, I removed the rear tires to discover that the rear pads are virtually worn down to nothing. I did not have the rear pads, as I thought it was the fronts that were worn, so I put the tire back on. It dawned on me today that I bet it is where the pads are so worn, that it is allowing the e-brake pedal to move down too far, thus illuminating the brake warning. My "anti-lock" also activates when I first go down our driveway, then the "anti-lock" lamp stays illuminated, so I am hoping that new pads will fix this too.
Hate to rain on your parade, but replacing the rear brake pads will not fix either issue. The parking brake shoes live inside the rear rotors, and do not use the rear brake pads.

Nor will brake pads address your ABS issue. Activation at low speed in normal stops is an indication that a wheel speed sensor signal voltage is dropping too low. Removing and cleaning the sensors may help, but in my case it was only a temporary fix. The ABS light being on while driving is an indication that one or more of the sensor signals dropped out completely. This is usually a broken wire in the affected sensor harness. Since the front wheel speed sensor wiring flexes as the wheels steer, it is a good bet that your problems are there.

I got tired of messing with mine and just replaced both front sensors. No problems.
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2006, 07:53 PM
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Oh? That is rather discouraging news.

Well, I wonder what the "e-brake" issue is? The pedal is going down to far, thus illuminating the lamp. If I pull up on it, it goes off. Is this a common problem?

Shouldn't I know that it would not work like a "typical" e-brake system?

Not too concerned about the "anti-lock" light at this time. It will keep.

Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Moneypit SEL
Hate to rain on your parade, but replacing the rear brake pads will not fix either issue. The parking brake shoes live inside the rear rotors, and do not use the rear brake pads.

Nor will brake pads address your ABS issue. Activation at low speed in normal stops is an indication that a wheel speed sensor signal voltage is dropping too low. Removing and cleaning the sensors may help, but in my case it was only a temporary fix. The ABS light being on while driving is an indication that one or more of the sensor signals dropped out completely. This is usually a broken wire in the affected sensor harness. Since the front wheel speed sensor wiring flexes as the wheels steer, it is a good bet that your problems are there.

I got tired of messing with mine and just replaced both front sensors. No problems.
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:32 PM
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It's a documented problem for W124 pre-1989 to have problem with e-brake pedal releasing enough to extinguish the light. Merc says the solution is improved "upper" cable. Perhaps same problem on your model.
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:41 PM
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Perhaps. Should have been a recall.
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2006, 12:24 AM
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
Yeah, that is what I was thinking at first when I read the manual, but it looks like my instrument panel has never been tampered with. That was not good enough for me because I wanted to know for sure, so I just went on e-bay and looked at several other 1981-1985 S-Class sedans and mine are just as they should be. Its the owners manual that is incorrect. Thats weird.
On my BMW Z3, the PO swapped the convertible top switch, which is
normally at the back end of the console, and the driver's side heated
seat switch.

It makes sense because in Texas, you put the top down far more often
than you heat the seats. The top goes up or down fast so you can make
the switch at a traffic light.

May have been a PO swap in your case, too.

When I first read my manual, I was amazed by the two settings to the
left on the headlight switch that do one sided parking lights. That feature,
like the town & country horn, is one I'd gladly have given up for a good
drink holder.

Bill
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2006, 01:11 AM
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Thanks, but as mentioned, mine is correct, at least according to the other eighteen 1981-85 S-Class sedans I looked at. I guess I should have went and looked at others before I made that quick statement.

The manual is either incorrect, or all other 18 cars have been changed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigtime

May have been a PO swap in your case, too.

Bill
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2006, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigtime

When I first read my manual, I was amazed by the two settings to the
left on the headlight switch that do one sided parking lights. That feature,
like the town & country horn, is one I'd gladly have given up for a good
drink holder.

Bill
Ever had to park in narrow european lanes??? You'd like the parking light feature

BTW - what is it with you yanks and drink/cup holders anyway??
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2006, 02:48 PM
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The W126's parking brake is a small drum brake on the inside of the disc. The rear calipers and pads have nothing to do with the parking brake system.

The parking brake pedal not coming up high enough to shut the light off is common. You should first remove the rear discs and make sure the shoes are in good shape. If they are then their is a spliter under the car right in front of the diff. This is used to adjust the cables and tighten the pedal up. Most of the time it is rusted up from lack of use. Cover it in wheel bearing grease once you free it up.

If your ABS light is on chances are its a bad ABS sensor, you can clean them when you do the brake job. If that doesn't do it they need to be replaced.

Now that you have an owners manual go to MB's website and buy a service CD.
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2006, 02:59 PM
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why the left and right side parking lights and not both sides.. i know european roads can be narrow but.. why left and right only not both
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2006, 03:06 PM
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Well on the W126 you can turn both sides on. The first click if you turn the knob to the right are parking lights.

Also on the post 85 W126's if you pull the knob out while it is in the parking brake position you will turn the fog lights on. This feature is great, I use it all the time.

The left and right side parking lights are great if you are on a narrow dark side street. I use mine once in awhile and people seem to notice them. I wouldn't leave them on for hours though you may drain the battery.
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2006, 04:21 PM
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I think the parking light feacture is so it drains the battery half as fast as both of them I think that, the non sticking blinker, frequent valve adjustments, and the no right side mirror are all german quirks... Its also build like a freekin tank, but still handles awesome


Theres still no reason for a 2nd gear start on a 76 with 75?HP new, NONE...

If it bugs me enough, I'll rig up something that presses on the kickdown even when im not at WOT, and make it so that I can shut it off at 45mph

I love German cars
~Nate

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