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#1
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Brilliant car but one problem is that i need lots of clothes to drive it. I am getting a little heat but not alot. I have looked at all the pipes and also driven it with the radiator bottle cap of to see if i had an airlock. this has done nothing. Car running at optimum temp and all fluids at right levels. Pity i coulldn't drive the car on the engine. Please help.
Any suggestions. Many thanks ![]() |
#2
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Close the center vent. It only supplies outside/fresh air -- not heated.
Jeff Pierce
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#3
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Check operation of the auxiliary water pump, located on the fender near the exhaust manifold. Apply 12V directly to it with engine off to test if it is running.
Steve
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'91 MB 190E 2.3 '08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5 '83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7 |
#4
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doesn't your modle have a mono-valve...they are real famous for havving the diaphram tear causing heat loss....repair kits are cheap.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#5
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Mine did the same thing - it ended up being the pushbutton controller in the dash. However, I have had the auxillary water pump go bad too and it will cause the same problem.
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jayhawk |
#6
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If you do have a monovalve, it's probably the culprit if the heat works better while the car is idling.
In my car the heat barely works but it it will eventually come on when I'm idling. Looks like I have to do the old diaphragm replacement soon.
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Ralph 1985 300D Turbo, CA model 248,650 miles and counting... |
#7
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No mono valve on a W201. They have what is called a heater valve, it is either open or closed, vacuum controlled and defaults to full open with no vacuum. The Aux pump will cause no heat at idle and luke warm heat at speed. I thought my aux pump was shot so I tested it and it still worked. I jumpered it on the ground side to get it to work when the ignition was on. This solved my low heat issues. IN the end I replaced the Climate Control Unit and my pump worked as it was supposed to, as well as my heater valve that was never closing when it was supposed to. The W201 HVAC system is designed to default to full heat out the dash vents in case of vacuum loss or failure of any components. So most likely not a vacuum leak. I am betting on the Aux Pump and the CC Unit in the dash.
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~Jamie _________________ 2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's. 1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon..... |
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