Rear tir rod replacement

I am at my whits end and for a simple tie rod. I can't count the number I have replaced, but this one is the worst. No matter what I try, the end just spins when trying to tighten or loosen. I have hammered it into place only to have it slide out. No amount of squeezing seems to help, even with a c clamp. I have even tried prying while loosening and it won't budge. It is only on the first few threads of the locking section. Am I using the wrong rod? Everywhere says they are all the same for all models but they are two part numbers off. Old is a 201 350 31 53 and the new is a 201 350 21 53. I am ready to take the whole rear spindle off and use an impact but I don't want to mess with the p-brake. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Chris
1990 300E

[Ron in SC]

Is the part you are talking about mounted in the rear wheel carrier? Is it the supporting joint sometimes also called a ball joint?

No, the rear tie rod. Located in the front of the rear control arm and mounts to just below the front diff. mount.

[hookedon210s]

The shaft of the tie rod end is set up to accept a 5mm allen wrnech. Insert and hold the allen wrench and tighten away with your 17mm or 19mm box end wrench. Mark

[Ron in SC]

Could it be that a special tool is need to remove this tie rod? On front tie rods I use my air hammer with the proper size pnematic fork. Don't know if that would be appropriate or possible for this situation.

You may want to apply heat to the part that the tie rod is pressed into to cause it to expand slightly often times that will do the trick. To apply heat I use a heat gun not a torch.

Thanks Mark but it is a 19 mm and a torx type not an allen on this one. Ron, I have already removed the old one, and am replaceing with a new one. The rod just keeps spinning whether I loosen or tighten. I am going to place a staple in the hole to get some more grip.
Chris

[stevebfl]

I presume we are talking about the tierod that adjusts toe. This one is the only link in the rear that has a tapered "tierod" type ball socket.

Most good tierods have an allen on the spindle to hold it while tightening, but that one might not. When faced with a rotater, I usually get a regular nut without locking feature. I then tighten it down as it turns easily all the way in. Once torqued the nut can be backed off and the spindle will stay. It will then usually accept the locknut.

Thanks Steve, I did that only I used the old lock nut and a gear puller to hold it tight. All done now. It seems that the squash of the lock nut was just too much and of course you can't get an impact in there to just spin it quick. Thanks to all!!
Chris