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  #16  
Old 09-17-2009, 05:59 PM
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John, just sent you an e-mail. Chris

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  #17  
Old 01-15-2010, 06:35 AM
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcberean View Post
71Rcode,

I was reading your thread where you are explaining the timing being one tooth off, and how Arthur Dalton had sent you a PDF file that explained it all, would you mind emailing me that PDF file? The allen wrenches were not lined up? Is that how you determined you were one tooth off?

Thanks in advance!!!

email address: jcberean@gmail.com

John...
My head gasket just blew big time. Would you please email me this PDF also?

kenneth AT vanpeters .com

Thanks so much.
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  #18  
Old 11-15-2010, 12:04 PM
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Smile Head bolt tightening sequence

It has been awhile since I have been on the board and just found the pic with the diagram with the head bolt tightening sequence. I hope this helps out all those attempting this task.
Attached Thumbnails
My head gasket replacement notes (long) - M104 '95 E320-e320-torque.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2011, 11:50 AM
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Arthur Dalton's Timing PDF

71RCode or jcberean, this thread inspired me to work on my m104 head gasket as well thanks for sharing your detailed notes. I was wondering if you can share Arthur Dalton's PDF file that explained the timing procedure during re-assembly by emailing me a copy as well?

amaderdux@yahoo.com

Thanks much for your help.
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  #20  
Old 09-14-2011, 04:22 PM
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Need a little help here guy's, I dont know if I am being a complete dumb a**e as Im so tired I cant see what Im doing, I have here a 129, 300-24v that has got the norm oil leak from head and a bit of oil mixing with the coolent. Ive looked at this page:


http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M104HeadGasket

Thanks Steve for the write up

and on photo 7 it says to remove pin, I have near on everything removed reddy to lift head off BUT this one does not have the side guide rail or does it, the only thing stopping me liffting the head is another pin (red arrow) on another guide rail, is this the same rail, if not how do I get the pin out ??

Thanks
Guys



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  #21  
Old 08-13-2012, 11:26 PM
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Hi

I am halfway into this job on my sister's car. I am looking for a couple of torque specs.

1. The camshaft caps torque specs.
2. Valve cover torque

Thanks,
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:32 AM
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Torque for the camshaft bearing cap bolts is 21 Nm, or 15 ft/lbs.
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  #23  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:52 PM
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and the intake manifold torque spec ???
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2012, 06:15 AM
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I'm about to embark on this, and a harness replacement, in a '93 320CE.

Does anyone have a copy of Arthur's .pdf handy? Between the fantastic info here and the links, and experience with a M103 I'm hoping this won't be too arduous.
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  #25  
Old 01-03-2014, 05:50 AM
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I was wondering cause if I ever have to replace gasket I'm having a layered gasket made.Maybe this will slove the problem with headgaskets.I want to have one made like a diesel gasket,to seal around the chain.Would this help?
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  #26  
Old 01-03-2014, 12:49 PM
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The 104 gaskets have been superseded at least 4-5 times over the years, though have maintained the same part number.

The latest gaskets have metal reinforcements at the area of the "Bermuda Triangle" where the block, head & timing cover meet.


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  #27  
Old 01-03-2014, 02:10 PM
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gerry which brand?
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  #28  
Old 01-03-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
gerry which brand?
You should go with MB OE or Elring (which is often MB's supplier). DO NOT use Victor Reinz if you can help it.
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  #29  
Old 01-03-2014, 08:22 PM
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Thanks for this thread. I'm ramping up to do a m103 head gasket. I have a spare head so my biggest concern is going to be getting the timing right without having cheater marks.
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  #30  
Old 01-03-2014, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquiddog View Post
Thanks for this thread. I'm ramping up to do a m103 head gasket. I have a spare head so my biggest concern is going to be getting the timing right without having cheater marks.
Depending on how many miles your car has, you should consider replacing the timing chain.

Getting the timing correct isn't that hard, and you only have one cam to worry about

Just follow the factory instructions and do your homework with the forum threads here beforehand. Don't skimp on parts - get factory or OE only, particularly for critical parts like the chain and tensioner (if you replace them) and gaskets. DO NOT buy anything URO Parts!!!!! REPLACE all rubber hoses, connectors, vacuum lines, o-rings, etc.

Check your head bolts to be sure they are in spec for re-use. Clean your block mating surface carefully. Clean out and chase your head bolt threads with a metric tap of the correct size and thread pitch.

Also, as your car is a 103 I recommend you have the valve guides and seals replaced, and the head pressure tested, while it's off the car. Incremental work and it will make a world of difference. You don't want to have to pull the head again to do valve guides in a couple of years.

Factory info for the M103 cam timing is attached. You can also access the MB service manuals for the W124 at their Startekinfo.com site.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 05-2152.pdf (101.3 KB, 428 views)
File Type: pdf 05-2150.pdf (111.0 KB, 314 views)
File Type: pdf 05-2240(1).pdf (82.9 KB, 308 views)
File Type: pdf 05-2230(1).pdf (56.2 KB, 321 views)


Last edited by gerryvz; 01-03-2014 at 09:25 PM. Reason: added service manual information for previous poster.
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