Help with M103 flxm13 water pump removal
 

Hi,
So I purchased the Snap-On tool and it was great for removing the bolts from my water pump without moving or removing the tensioner or the power steering pump. The water pump is now free but I cannot get it past the tensioner adjuster rod bracket. I've tried a number of different angles, but I just don't see how the pump can come out. Is there some trick to "rolling" the pump out? Is there any way to move the adjuster rod/bracket without removing the tensioner and power steering pump?
Also, I've already removed the first intake bolt, but that didn't help.

Thanks!
Gary

You gotta take the tensioner out and loosen up the p/s.:rolleyes:

It sure looks that way to me, but I read a couple of archived posts claiming that the pump could be removed without removing the tensioner.

I think I just loosen both...
 

just to get them in the "right position". It has been a while but, it was not that difficult...
Good luck!

as a professional mercedes tech i have never had to loosen the ps pump or remove the tensioner. the snap-on 13mm does it every time, unless the original allen bolts ar in it then i use a 1/4 inch set.

Thanks
 

After loosening all the bolts and removing a couple, I was able to move tensioner bracket enough that the pump came out easily. Just to clarify, I was able to remove all four bolts without touching either the tensioner or the PS pump, but then I couldn't pull the pump out because of the adjuster bracket.

Thanks!
Gary

turn the pump slightly counter clockwise as you pull up and it should pass the beracket, also be sure to remove the lifting hook at the cam cver that attaches to the tensioner shock, and the first bolt of the intake manifold.

Geez you guys just want to make it hard. If ya pull out the tensioner you have loads of room. As a professional tech I can have it out of the way in 1 minute so I know it's not like it's difficult. Are you trying to avoid moving the tensioner b/c it might fail? Seems like time to replace it instead of making the job harder than it needs to be, to try to avoid it.

Why make more work for yourself? if it was going to fail, i can tell before i even begin the job and it is all sold at once. being on commission the faster i finish the more $$$ i make, so time is definately money. nothing hard about my way, just what works for me, as yours works for you. to each his own.

Get the FLXM13 Snapon tool
 

Just finished the waterpump, a re-seal of the front top cover (behind the distributor), replaced noisy idler pulley, replaced dist-cap / rotor and plug leads. Also had the valve cover powder coated (to get rid of that pesky flaking paint) while I was at it.

The Snapon tool made all this relatively straight forward. Even minor tasks such as removing the 13mm bolt that holds the dip-stick shaft to the block.

Car runs like a champ!

190e is now at 136k

ooo what color???!?!?!

That's the way I do it too. I used to drop the A/C comp until I learned to remove the tensioner.

Question: What is this Snap-On tool everyone is raving about? If it is a 13mm flex socket built right onto the extension, I bought the original MB tool about 30 years ago.

Peter - check out this thread. Some people who work at your level have info on it within.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=6891&highlight=13mm

And you will have to take the tensioner out when it fails in two months. Any teck who works on Benz and does a Pro Job takes the tentioner out, inspecs replaces, and if the p/s pump is leaking reseals it. Cmon all, lets not do a Sears job and screw the customer, or ourselvs. By the way, did you remember to replace the o ring for the Bearing housing? Oh yeah, you would notice if you took the tentioner off

What O-ring is this
 

I'm planning to do pump and tensioner replacement in the near future. Where is the O-ring, also any other recommended replacements while everything is off?

Thanks.