That, my friend, is useful advice. Thank you. The idea of a brass drift is good because it would be softer than the bearing. Nevertheless, it seems like you still have to strike the inner bearing with something. Do you have an idea what the approximate diameter of the drift would be?

Just large enough to get a good purchase on the bearing and transmit the necessary force without deforming. Half-inch wide should work.

then why are you whacking them?

You are going to replace the seal anyway, so why not pry it out? Dann bleibt das Radlager geschont.


http://dict.leo.org/?lang=de&lp=ende

You can't pry out the seal. Its made of relatively thick hardened steel and will not bend. I know that there was a mention of prying or janking it out, but I don't think that suggestion was made on the basis of actual observation. It has to be hammered out from the inside of the hub. There is a hole in the seal where the spindle passes through and the diameter of the bearing (toward the center of the hub) is less than that of the seal. (The diameter of the seal toward the outside of the hub is greater than the whole in the seal) Therefore, since you can not remove the seal from the outside, by pulling it out, you must carefully hit the bearing a little at a time to push out the seal and bearing from the inside. Hitting the bearing with a brass drift is not going to hurt it. A brass drift cost about $10. This would also be better than using brute force on the spindle nut. Doing it that way would cause a tremendous amount of pressure on one side of the bearing all at once. That bearing nut is probably hardened steel. I would also be concerned that employing that technique might strip the threads on the spindle. Researching this further I found that Lisle makes different sized drifts for removing bearings. One would just match up the diameter of the bearing with the drift and then the force would be distributed over the entire end of the bearing. However, I think hitting around the bearing a little at a time with a brass drift would work as well. Not as good as the Mercedes tool or the Lisle drift but a lot cheaper.

The tool for the job, pulls out seals without damaging anything else. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040210267&r=2076&g=111

This is what I do for a living.
The dust cap is a stress/press fitting cover = it will not seal correctly if used again.
I have used the bearing nut, a plastic hammer handle, a brass drift, solid plastic rod, and many other items to drive out the old bearing/rear seal.
I have given you the best possible advice = buy the bearing kit = replace inner/outer bearing & race, dust cap, seal and audio static ground tab.
What you use is a personal matter = it is your car.

The stinkin' grease cap has caused me more irritation over the years than the bearing seal. Does anyone have a raffinierte http://dict.leo.org/ende?lp=ende&lang=de&searchLoc=0&cmpType=relaxed&sectHdr=on&spellToler=on&search=raffiniert&relink=on idea on how to remove and reinstall grease caps with limited agony, in particular the "over the hub" types on the W210? The older types always responded successfully to persistent prying.

I had a drawing from a German manual that shows a little 3-claw slide hammer pusher puller, but I have never seen one like it in real life, either here or in Europe.

I know many people prefer the channel-lock method of removal, but mine don't respond well to that. I'd be happy to chisel it off, but I don't know how easy the new ones go back on (usually the old ones go back on easier).

I had the claw puller tool for five years, until it was stolen..
The puller is nice, but not needed.
I paid $185.00 for the tool, many years ago.