Newbie with a few questions regarding the 300E and 190E
 

Hi,

Please bear with me as I'm a newb. Considering either a 300E or a 190E for a DD

A few questions:

Why do 300E's have different style seats? Even 300E's of the same year have different style seats.

Will wheels from a 500E fit a 300E?

Also, when shopping for a 300 or 190, anything in particular I should look out for?

I will not buy one without service records, but what do I need to be aware of?

Thanks

They're not so much different style seats as different upholstery and stitch pattern - leather has one, MB Tex another.

Agree, the only real difference between seat design would be between the sedan and the coupe/cabrio. Unless the sedan is a 500 E/E 500 which in case would be standardly equipped with sport seats (which are different in design from the regular seats).

Sport seats (front AND back) could be ordered as an option on all sedan types worldwide, although I am not sure this option was available in the USA.

The only other difference between seats on those years were units equipped with electric lumbar support and reinforced seats for heavy drivers, options which I am not sure were either available in the USA.

Go for the 300 E, it is much superior and comfortable than the 190 E.

I agree get the 300E. It is bigger and comparable economy. Get a good prepurchase inspection, like with any car. Good luck

Here's what I mean by the seats in the 300E:

We'll call this "Style A"

http://b.im.craigslist.org/jM/aL/Fcb...0tVkeLK9Vh.jpg


And this, "Style B"

http://b.im.craigslist.org/Wx/4L/Gd1...x57vV2WtOC.jpg

I like "Style B" better.

What are the correct names for each?

Also, is there any year 300E which I should avoid?

Thanks again.

Style A is MB Tex - really Heavy Duty vinyl that feels like leather but lasts forever woth minimum care. Style B is leather - usual leather care with cleaners, conditioners, etc, and doesn't last as long. Usually develops cracks unless cared for very well.

Genuine 500E wheels might be a bit hard to find, they didn't bring that many 500Es into the country. They are a wider rim with a different offset. There are a lot of MB wheels from different models and later years that work, and tons of aftermarket wheels as well.

Do a search on what to look for on a 300E, 400E, or 500E. The model was made from 1986 to 1995, as a sedan, 2 door coupe, and wagon, and there were changes in axle ratios, engine displacement, standard features, weight, brakes, etc during the entire run. Lots of info on each of these models in the archives. Like every car made, each year had something new, and some wrinkle corrected, and a new weak spot potentially added. The earlier models were lighter and handled best, but had weak valve guide/seal issues - simpler smog systems, but more primitive fuel computers meant lower gas mileage than later samples. Later model 6 cylinders had head gasket and potential engine wiring harness problems, though some say that was mostly on the V8 models. All the issues for each year were usually corrected by installing factory replacement upgraded parts.

Look at the 'cars' tab at the top of the page for a model summary, choose what you like best, research the archives for any problems on that year, find a good example that has been well maintained (with records) and has had the characteristic issues for that year taken care of, get a PPI, and if it all looks good, buy it!

PPI?

If the 500E wheels won't work, what will?

I'd like to upgrade to at least 16" wheels that also look better than the stock ones.

Thanks.

PPI = prepurchase inspection

There is an entire wheels section in this forum. Also a ton of info on fitment in the archives.

Sixto

"I'd like to upgrade to at least 16" wheels that also look better than the stock ones."

I'd suggest being more concerned about the condition of the vehicle.

I have a '92 300E Sportline, 242K miles. Had a '90 300E that I bought with 100K and sold at 175K. The seats are leather, but different from stock leather seats. Firmer and more bolster on the sides. Simulated bucket seats in the back. There's not much point in mentioning it, because it's not really a logical economic choice. If you tried to buy them, they would be outrageous. Genuine Sportlines are very hard to find. So as another poster said, "Worry more about the condition of the car and it's documented repair and maintenance history."

There are too many things to list relative to what to look for. Here is my logic. Only valid if you value the look of the car (paint quality).

It's cheaper to fix the mechanicals, than to re-do the cosmetics. The engines and transmissions are really quite bullet proof. It's the rotating components on the front of the engine and the Air Conditioning system that are problematic. Count on A/C/ problems, $1500 ish.

Full paint job is 4K up. Furthermore, good mechanicals may tend to follow good cosmetics. So I would look for cosmetics first and good mechanical history second. No records disqualifies the car. Green coolant disqualifies the car.

I would also look at geography. Where has this car lived? Avoid salt areas.

Mileage is just a number. I would rather have a car with highway miles and one that has had some of the very predictable fixes like wiring harness $1,500 and head gasket $1500 over a 70K mile car with nothing ever replaced.

Wheels? Sportline stock is 15 x 7. Tirerack sells an 8 hole wheel in 15 x 7 $99.00 ea. and 16 x 7 $109.00. They work fine for me. Stock Sportline tire is 205/60 R 15. Frankly I see little advantage to the 16" wheels assuming you are buying a stock suspension 300E. The stock suspension is fairly soft with a fair amount of roll. My Sportline is stiff and corners flat. I stay with the 15 x 7 because I am not auto-crossing. Going to a 16 rim would just add a little more sidewall stiffness, which I don't really want. It also slightly increases the potential for rim damage from potholes or road hazards. I have two replacement rims en-route from Tirerack as we speak. Ran over what felt like a brick at 80 mph. Wiped out the inside of two rims, but tires survived.

What would I buy? '95 either E320 or E420. There are some very nice cars listed for between say about 8k and 12K with reasonable mileages. Get a good one and it will put a smile on your face every time you drive it.

Steve

I can't do both? :confused:

Sure you can. However, before you pick a wheel style that reveals the brake caliper casting, take note that the casting is finished in brown ( as in rusted iron). Not pretty, or designed for display as are many newer cars.

The 8 Hole rims hide it from view.

Steve

i have a 1985 190e only because i got it real cheap, (97.00 dollars) threw a head gasket on it and have driving it for the past year. I have done very little to the car other than adding 17 inch enkie wheels and tires. it has 185000 miles on it now and still runs great. i like the 190 for both drivability and reliability. don't know if I would buy a different model, sure could not find another deal like i got on this one, as for the wheel and tire swap, i was told i would not like the ride quality with the low profile tires but have not noticed much of a change other than it really sticks to the road now( i have pushed the limits of the tire a few times) over all i really like the car and it has been a good daily driver. this just my opinion so take it as you will.
joe:)

OK, good info so far.

What else should I look for? If the Wiring Harness was replaced? Head Gasket?

How long do the Auto Trans on these cars last generally in terms of miles?

And, what are you guys spending annually on maintenance and repairs?

Thanks.

Head gasket and wiring harness issues will only apply to 300E (or E320) models from 93-95 equipped with the M104 6 cylinder engine. Prior model years (for the four doors only) were not equipped with this engine, and the 190 never came with it either. Unless you were looking at a 93-95 E class you don't have to worry about either of those things.

The general consensus on either of these models is that they last a long, long time when properly cared for. Hundreds of thousands of miles. As far as maintenance, it would be helpful to know what you drive right now. If you're driving a Honda or a Chevy or something like that, you're going to be a little surprised at how much more regular maintenance comes with owning an MB. If you're driving an Audi or a BMW you won't be.

I'm going to assume you're looking at cars that are 12 years old plus, because you've specifically mentioned a 190 and those haven't been made since '92, I think . 300E's are of similar vintage, with the newest one you'll find being a '95. With *any* 12 year old plus car, you better prepare to invest money in a lot of the things that are ready to go. Suspension components (MB uses a lot of rubber that wears out) and cooling systems (radiators, water pumps, etc) come right to mind. This is not just for MB, its for any car that old. Things just start to break, and that's just gonna cost you money.