Since owning my car I've always taken it to a M-B indie for an oil change, which was nothing more than a new oil filter and oil for around $40. Depending on which tech does the service, coolant, windshield, tranny fluids are checked and levled if needed. I'v ebeen thinking about doing my own oil change lately seeing that it looks simple. The oil filter looks to be easily accessible, but I have no idea as removing it and putting a new one in. How easy is that? Also, as far as draining the oil is concerned, how easy is it to loosen the drain plug and all that other stuff? I know I have to remove the belly pan, and I have done that before. Believe it or not I was able to do that despite the low clearance. Will I have room to reach the drain plug? Is this an easy job? I'm more concerned with access. What parts will I need? Thanks.

I think that it is GREAT for anyone who owns a car to know how to service it. I have TAUGHT both of my Daughters how to service their cars. They now do it with me watching.
My BEST suggestion would be to find either someone in this site or a trusted mechanic to "walk" you through a complete oil change and service. While the Mercedes isn't a complicated car to service, it is EXPENSIVE if you do something wrong. Point in fact, I saw a perfectly good '69 250S engine turned to junk because this guy over-tightened the oil filter canister, unknowingly cracked the top and ran it until it quit. The cam was siezed in the head as well as the bearings were gone in the lower-end.
Find someone good, offer to pay them for their talent and learn the RIGHT WAY to do it.
If you live on the central coast of calif, PM me and I will help you. Chris

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

It is pretty straightforward on the M103 engine but can get messy because the filter opening points toward the ground so when you loosen it, some of the residual oil in the old filter will run out and down engine.

I usually stuff the area under the oil filter with rags to catch this runoff.

You can get access to the oil drain plug without raising the front but a set of ramps gives you good clearance to remove the belly pan and get to the plug.

Be very careful replacing and tightening the plug - the receptacle will strip or crossthread rather easily. A torque wrench is recommended. If you do strip the threads, you might try and find a plug of the same threading but about 1/2 inch longer as the threads go into the pan a bit farther than the length of the standard drain plug. I had this problem due to a careless quick lube shop.

The filter can be removed with a small strap wrench or one of those spiral spring wrenches that coil around the body and have a hex nut fitting on the end.

Basic procedure:

• Remove bellypan
• Place drain pan nearby, loosen plug but do not fully remove
• Move drain pan under plug, remove plug and do not let it drop in the oil pan if possible.
• Let drain until very little oil comes out, replace drain plug and tighten
• Stuff rags under oil filter area, place wrench on filter and turn counter clockwise to loosen
• Remove filter and with clean rag or towel, wipe the circular base of the filter mount clean
• Get new filter, make a recognizable mark on the end with a marking pen
• With a little new motor oil, wet the rubber gasket on the open end of the filter.
• Place filter and spin on by hand until it makes contact with the mounting base
• Note the position of the mark you made and tighten by hand or with a strap wrench until the mark has made 3/4 of a revolution
• Make sure the drain plug has been properly tightened and fill through the oil cap on the front top of the camshaft cover.
• Make note of the date and mileage. You'll do this again at 3 - 5000 miles or 6 months. You can mark this on the end of the filter before you mount it.

As DIYs go, this is about as straightforward and easy as it gets.

Richpark's write-up is good, a couple more points:

• You'll have to remove the air filter housing before you can access the oil filter. There are three nuts, one in front, one in back, and one on the driver's side underneath the housing. All 10mm.

• You can buy a special oil filter socket for the filter from MB, if you want. Probably not necessary, but I have one and use it all the time.

• A torque wrench isn't necessary, if you hand thread the drain bolt in and use a short-handled wrench to get it snug you shouldn't have to worry about overtightening it.

• If you loosen the oil filter about a half-turn (but DON'T remove it), that breaks the seal slightly and allows the oil to drain out of the filter. If you give it about fifteen or twenty minutes for the oil to drain down, you can usually get the filter off with a minimum of spillage.

• Buy lots of the little copper drain washers, and make sure you replace them everytime (or at least every other time). They will help prevent the drain bolt from leaking and ensure a good seal.

I have a 300SE and don't need to remove the air filter housing but there is probably more clearance in the 300SE engine bay.

I'll have to try loosening the oil filter slightly before removing it while the main oil pan is draining to see if the will also allow some of the oil in the filter to drain out. I suppose I could take a scribe awl and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to let air in.

Good point about the copper washers.

Here are the steps: 1) remove the belly pan, 2) throw the belly pan away, 3) do the oil change. Next time go directly to step 3.

$40 for a knowledgable tech to change oil is a heck of a deal given local prices. I'd have the shop do one in four or five oil changes just to get a professional set of eyes on your engine.

Sixto