I have been told that the best plugs to put in my 96 SL500 are the original OEM Bosch single tips that cost $2.89 per plug. That the engine was designed for this plug and it would be a mistake to replace them even with Bosch Platinums.

Any recommedations? Should I stick with the OEM plugs?

I think typically you won't find any really compelling reasons to stray from OEM plugs.

__________________
2012 E350 Bluetech

All marketing hype aside, the platinum is a fine plug under most circumstances. The problem is that it has a tiny pinhead-sized electrode which is easily fouled if your engine is not in top running condition. On a relatively newer engine, particularly a brand new one, this is not an issue. But this type of plug is no good for higher-mileage vehicles, especially ones with less-than-perfect fuel mixtures or seeping valve stem seals.

I would stick with the recommended plug. In most cases it is the Bosch Super and not the platinum.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

That would be " die-electric grease ".
Don't want him to use actual silicone & bond the boots to the plugs forever.

__________________
2007 C 230 Sport.

Mr. Buckwheat Im trying to get in touch with you about your book being published

Thanks for all of the comments. I wish that I could change them myself!! Buckwheat-you must have a lift. What do you recommend for a Gap and Torque? .32 on GAP??

Even though most of the plugs are suppose to be pre-gapped, I always find some not within range.

What about NGK plugs for the 5.0 engine. I see a lot of the Mercedes Parts sites are also showing them as alternatives.

Bad advice.

You'll overtorque because the lubricating effect of the antiseize will affect torque reading.

And, the antiseize will become gunk to fall into your engine next time plugs are removed.

Don't torque, at all, rather follow Bosch recommendation on quarter turn. (for new plug--on old plug washer is previously crushed, so turn less)

At these low figures it's very easy to overtorque as many folks go a little past the click, don't read the beam correctly, etc., etc.

Do what the manufacturer says, and don't follow Internet legend.

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

On every gas engine I have every changed the plugs on I put in get anti seize on the threads. This has never cuased a problem, all it does do is make it so you can get them out the next time without stripping the threads out of the head. These days since almost everything has an aluminum head this is not only a common problem, but a pita to fix.


You don't need a torque wrench to tighten plugs. Do it by feel just past when the crush washer crushes is fine.

Name one problem anti seize can cause? So what if it gets into the cylinder it will burn it right off, you don't put a massive amount on anyway. It will screw up the torque a bit but thats not an issue unless you are tightening your plugs with a 1/2 drive and don't know what your doing.

If you are going to wrench on cars you had better develope a feel for torque pretty quick.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

From 20 years of experience with BMW motorcycles (most of them older) I can say that anyone who does not use anti-seize when installing plugs in an aluminum head will eventually learn the finer points of a heli-coil insert or all-out head removal and repair.