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#1
04-25-2006, 12:41 PM
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95 E320 suspension work - sound reasonable?
Dropped off the 95 E320 Wagon to have a few things checked out. The primary issue...the car just doesn't feel "tight". In a straight line it's OK, although it can get to bouncing over rough spots. In the turns, it wanders and floats a bit.
It's somewhat of a subjective issue, but from what I understand of this car from reading here, they should handle pretty dang good for a wagon. Mine doesn't. The independant mechanic I'm working with seems to be pretty good, but I've only been to him for one other major bit of work - I'm not 100% comfortable with him yet, but close - he seems honest and reputable. Just thought I'd run his diagnosis/pricing by the group, and see if any red flags are apparent to those of you more familiar with things than me. He said there are three primary issues that need fixing. The front "steering joints" are shot, the front shocks are shot, and the rear "accumulators" need replacing. Price to repair was quoted around $1000. I realize it's not possible to troubleshoot something like this without seeing/feeling things, but does anything above sound out of whack? Thanks in advance. 
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#2
04-25-2006, 02:35 PM
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How many miles on the wagon? Incorrect tire pressures and other minor things can cause the float like ride.
__________________
dtf 1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles) 1995 E300 Diesel (228,000) 1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000) 2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop 2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles) 2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles 2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles
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#3
04-25-2006, 02:59 PM
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Sounds about right to me. I would tell him to also change the front shock mounts. Idler arm bushing might be a good idea too. Price seems ok. Do you have any suspension noises?
Regards, Bruno
__________________
_ 1992 300TE 160 kmiles
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#4
04-26-2006, 11:03 AM
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#5
04-26-2006, 11:08 AM
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not a bad price.... a bit suprised that the front shocks are shot..
i concur 100 percent with the idler arm bushings... sway bar too.... i also concur with shock mounts.... cheap and easy stuff..... replacing this stuff one at a time doesn't help all that much..but as a group you can tell a difference.... i have been replacing one at a time on a 300e....and just starting to notice the effects.... it makes driving my son's car lots of fun....
__________________
1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k  1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC]
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#6
04-26-2006, 11:12 AM
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No strange noises from the suspension. On cold mornings (under 45F or so), there is a bit of vibration coming out of the front end for a few minutes, but it pretty much disappears after the tires warm up.
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#7
04-26-2006, 11:18 AM
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#8
04-26-2006, 11:55 AM
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Reputable is one thing, Mercedes-capable is another. Did they use the spreader bar? Plus, brand of tires is important. Generally you get exactly what you pay for--meaning Michelin is best.
__________________
Kent Christensen Albuquerque '07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster Two BMW motorcycles
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#9
04-26-2006, 12:24 PM
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Sounds like you need a second opinion from a MB specialist shop. I have had 3 W124 sedans.
1) Why would the front shocks be worn out in 80,000 miles? Maybe at 150 to 175, but not 80. 2) Why replace shock mounts? Are they visibily cracked? 3) Did he test the ball joints? The fact that he called them front joints is a warning sign. 4) The tie rod ends and idler bushing should be fine at this mileage? 5) What about the steering damper? This is a cheap easy replacement and probably should be done. 6) Initial vibration is probably normal and due to overnight flat spotting. All my 300E's have done this. 7) I sure wouldn't let him replace accumulators without a second opinion. 8) Finally, the other obvious thing is the thrust link member of the 5 link rear suspension. There is one link that tends to wear out and cause wandering. This mechanic does not sound like my MB indy sounds like. I just went through a front end rebuild with him on my '92 Sportline. He doesn't replace components unless they are worn out. Steve
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#10
04-26-2006, 12:50 PM
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With suspension issues, it depends on how picky someone is. Most suspension components wear gradually. One person might still be happy with the ride, another might wonder whether the handling could be tighter and more precise.
I assume that the mechanic has inspected all the parts that he wants to replace. - Shocks wear gradually. In my experience, it is especially the car's cornering ability that improves with new shocks. So if you are unhappy how the car handles changing the shocks is a good idea at 80kmiles. BTW it is not only mileage but also road conditon that matters. - Shock mounts contain large amount of rubber that hardens over time. If you replace the shocks I'd replace the mounts too - the work is the same. They are not that expensive anyway, and the car's handling improved after I changed them. - Idler arm bushing is important for steering precision and tracking. If worn, I'd replace. - The car seems to drive well in a straight line. This would argue against the links in the rear. - Steering damper might be a good idea. - Rear accumulators also wear gradually. Nitrogen diffuses out over time. If the rear is bouncy and the ride is harsh I think it might be a good idea to replace them. Regards, Bruno
__________________
_ 1992 300TE 160 kmiles
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#11
04-26-2006, 12:55 PM
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 The tires are Pirelli P6's, which I'm not crazy about. They wouldn't be my first choice, but they came with the car when I purchased it last year, and are almost new - I'd like to get some miles out of them. Still, without discounting the effect decent tires have on handling, I'm not convinced the amount of mush, wandering and body roll I'm feeling can be attributable to the tire selection.
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#13
06-13-2006, 06:13 PM
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On a 124 MB you must at least partially pull the shocks (the top of the shock) to replace the front top shock mounts. Were the shocks replaced before without replacing the shock mounts? Although one earlier post recommended against replacing parts that aren't worn out rubber parts like shock mounts should definitely be replaced when shocks are replaced to save redundant labor charges. Heck, the mounts cost what, $35-$45? Mark
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#14
09-27-2006, 10:04 AM
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hmm i've got a 95 e320 wagon with about 108 on the clock. the back seems really bouncy to me. i guess i chalked it up to being a wagon, my last car was a 94 e420. but yeah the rear bounces over everything so much IMO that it makes my 420 feel like it was on coilovers. are these accumulators pricy and hard to change or are they an in-and-out kinda part? EDIT: I found fastlane has accumulators for about 115 each. but whats it like to change them? Last edited by AtlBenz; 09-27-2006 at 10:14 AM.
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#15
09-27-2006, 10:12 AM
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15 minutes each side, after jacking up the car...and taking off the front wheel.
__________________
1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC]
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