Where is the light for this?

Hi,
I have a 1986 300e,(just recently bought it), And I have 2 quick questions:
1) was wondering if there is suppose to be a light luminating the gear shift area (mine is dark), Its kinda frustrating to guess what gear you are in at night. And all other cars usually light up at night, so I am thinking so, But, how do I replace the bulb , and/or is there a fuse directly for that light?

2) I have read several threads on this, but didnt fit my condition: My rear headrests dont go down, is there a fuse for this?..everything else works fine, sunroof, seats, door locks, just not the headrests, is it vaccum or fuse?..thanks